(Topic ID: 285452)

Williams Super Star 10 pt. Chimes Not Activating

By wayinla

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by HowardR
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

My Super Star 10 point chime isn’t firing. I’ve check the 10 pt. relay and the switches are clean and gapped properly. Jones plugs leading to the head and the Jones plug for the chime unit have also been cleaned and reseated. Any ideas?

#2 1 year ago

Did you check the coil in the chime?

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from currieddog:

Did you check the coil in the chime?

Coil isn’t burnt out and plunger moves freely. But I do see that a contact has dislodged from a 10 point relay switch. Still makes contact when closed. See picture. According to the manual and schematic that switch energizes the the number match unit step up coil.

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#4 1 year ago
Quoted from wayinla:

According to the manual and schematic that switch energizes the the number match unit step up coil.

Does the match unit step like it should?

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#5 1 year ago

currieddog - Forgive my newbieness. I’m still learning. Schematics show a numbers match unit but I don’t see anything labeled like that in the pin. Is that the same as the replay unit?

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#6 1 year ago

Ahh, I see. Numbers Match Unit = Replay Unit. That messed up switch in the picture is not making a good connection, thus the Replay Unit is not firing and therefore the 10 point chime doesn’t ring. Cleaning and adjusting it works temporarily. Is there a way to repair this contact point or do I need to replace the leaf?

#7 1 year ago

If just the contact is missing you can get that from Pinball Resource

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Numbers Match Unit = Replay Unit.

Odd that it's labeled like that; the manual has it correctly as 'No. Match Unit.'

You can get a small contact from PBR and squeeze it on, or take a blade off something if you have a spare.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from currieddog:

Odd that it's labeled like that; the manual has it correctly as 'No. Match Unit.'
You can get a small contact from PBR and squeeze it on, or take a blade off something if you have a spare.

It was pretty confusing that it was labeled that way. I think I can replace the contact.

#10 1 year ago

Insert the replacement contact and tap it with a ball peen hammer.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Insert the replacement contact and tap it with a ball peen hammer.

or squeeze with needlenose pliers.

#12 1 year ago

I saw some posts that recommended soldering the contact into place. Is that best to do?

#13 1 year ago

I usually tap contacts onto the blade with a ball peen hammer, and then solder them to the leaf blade. It might be overkill, but I feel pretty confident when I'm done that the contact will stay put. It's more work, though.

Now if I could just come up with something to keep those darned nylon spacers from falling out....

#14 1 year ago

Replace the blade or thoroughly clean the oxidized/burnt metal where the new contact point will sit on both sides.
If you use solder, only solder on the back.

Quoted from paulace:

Now if I could just come up with something to keep those darned nylon spacers from falling out

I've had good results by melting the tiny plastic nipple flat that goes through the little hole with a soldering iron.

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