Can you send a photo of the coil as it is currently wired?

Those are definitely not Original flipper coils. The diodes are probably soldered backwards if the fuses are blowing instantly. Did you replace the coils or just the sleeves?

This label on the coil is incorrect. If you follow this label you have a dead short.

coil 1 (resized).jpg

The cathode of the diode must face the positive voltage like this.

pasted_image (resized).png

This is wired incorrectly.

coil 2 (resized).jpg

GRUMPY to the rescue!

Grumpy, this isn’t my issue but just making sure I understand, he needs to swap the position of the white wire with the blue/yellow?

I’m fairly sure the diode is good, but produced the results of a backwards diode due to the wires being on the wrong terminals. He was pointing out that the label on the diode was incorrect which is why whoever wired them has them on backwards. The label in your picture shows the +50 on the anode side instead of the cathode side like it’s supposed to. In other words, the diode is correct, the label is simply wrong and the wires need to be moved to the correct terminals.

If you want, I can take pics of my Pinbot flipper wiring. Never touched it myself yet, but they could use a rebuild too. They do flip though, so the wiring must be right and the diode bands must be in the right direction. Let me know if the pics would be helpful.

Diode is correct as you want the banded side attached to the thicker winding.

There is a couple of things that need to be done here. The diode is rated for 1 amp. I'm sure the flipper fuse that burnt was at least 3 or 4 amps. So the diode will have to be replaced on both coils. I would install the diode cathode side (band) to the lug with the thicker or primary winding. Also install the power wire to this lug too. The middle lug always gets one of the EOS wires. The last lug which has the thinner winding wire or secondary winding gets the other EOS switch wire and the ground wire. If your not sure which wire is which, the ground wire will be the same color as on the flipper switch.

Something I have seen happen before is those 2 screws and Tinnerman nut that hold that massive stack of pain in the ass switches can cause a short. Sometimes a slightly bigger screw gets used so it has bite in a stripped out Tinnerman nut, or just because that was the only screw someone could find that is close to right. If it is bigger around, the threads of it can cut through the switch insulation and short out on the base plate. It's a shot in the dark for sure, but a tip that might help someone someday.

Did you also replace the two coil diodes?

You really shoud just replace the diodes at this point. To properly test them you'd want to pull up at least one side of them, but at this point, its more economical and reliable to just start fresh with new diodes. I went to a service call last month for the same issue on a Rollergames with reversed wiring which resulted in blown diodes and fuses.

Since you have 3 system 11 games you need to keep some diodes on hand, if you buy 1n4007 diodes you can use them on coils, switches, lamps and circuit boards.

50 volts goes to the white wire.
EOS switch wire to the middle.
EOS switch wire and wire that goes to the cabinet switch to the left lug.

Start from scratch, disconnect the blue/yellow and the grey/yellow wires. Replace the fuse, turn on the power and test for voltage at both wires with a DMM.

I think when you had the short across the diodes the you damaged the flipper power supply.

You need the test the bridge rectifier on the flipper power supply. I bet that there is a shorted diode in the bridge rectifier.

You are going to need this.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GBPC3504W

No, you never sent power to the flippers because the short this time was on the power supply and not the coil.

Playball!!