(Topic ID: 322759)

Williams Phoenix - Guidance to Repair Slight Battery Damage

By privydigger

1 year ago



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#1 1 year ago

I recently picked up a Williams Phoenix and knew that it had some battery damage on the MPU board. I have a little experience working on boards and would like to learn more about board repair through these projects.

I've removed the battery holder which was attached to the board with short lengths of wire. When the holder was removed, it was apparent that a few of the wires attached to the boards had corrosion. The one negative connector came off as it was the most corroded. I cleaned the board of the corrosion front and back using instructions on flippers.com.

Below are 2 pictures - front and back. I'm assuming that I should detach the wires (as shown below) by heating up the solder that are on the board. My question is that once I remove the wires, is it just a matter of re-soldering the wires to the connections on the board? Should I de-solder the wires and clean it again to make sure?

#phoenix

I appreciate the help.

Tom

Phoenix_MPU_BackMarkedUp (resized).jpgPhoenix_MPU_BackMarkedUp (resized).jpgPhoenix_MPU_Front_MarkedUp (resized).jpgPhoenix_MPU_Front_MarkedUp (resized).jpg
#2 1 year ago

For an external battery pack you need black in upper right and red in lower left. You can get a 3 space pack from any supplier. The other connections are made in the battery pack itself

#3 1 year ago

I've already purchased the external battery pack and was in the process of installing it and found the battery damage was more than I originally thought. I was asking more about cleaning I did and about removing the wires and solder. I'm going to remove the solder from the upper right and lower left and attach the remote battery pack wires.

#4 1 year ago

I see, you said you had cleaned and neutralized the damage so I took you at your word. You should be fine

3 months later
#5 1 year ago

Well, I'm back working on the Phoenix. I went out and got a good soldering iron and a good pair of reading glasses . I moved the batteries to an external battery holder. When I turn on the machine in manual diagnostic mode, the player displays flash 6 0's and the game display (aka master display?) displays 01 01, 01 02, 01 03. The displays go blank and no GI, nothing. How do I begin troubleshooting this? I'm looking for pointers and to learn from this to be self sufficient. I'll also continue to dig through Pinside to see what I can find.

Thanks.

#6 1 year ago

I've found some articles to get me started so we will see how far I get. Thanks again.

1 month later
#7 1 year ago

I've had some time troubleshooting my Phoenix. I've used Clay's repair guide - http://www.pinrepair.com/sys37/index1.htm. An amazing amount of information. This led me to check and work on the power supply board. I did some repairs on the board, replaced fuses that were incorrect. All voltages are good. When I turn on the machine with 3J3 (Solenoid Power Bus), fuse F2 (Solenoid) blows. If I disconnect 3J3, the fuse does not blow. Is this a case of a solenoid that may be stuck open or closed?

Here is an excerpt from Clay's guide:
So instead of the CPU controlling the driver transistor (and hence its associated coil/flashlamp), the coil/flashlamp becomes lock-on (permanently energized), because the path to ground is shorted inside one or many of the controlling devices. So if a coil (or several coils) or flashlamps are locked-on, the TIP120/TIP102 is at minimum is usually the cause. But the big problem is if the TIP120/TIP102 driver transistor shorts, sometimes the "backlash" can ruin the parts behind it (2N4401, 7408/7402, PIA) that control the transistor.

It looks like I may have some repairs to do but need to find the offending coil(s) if that is the problem before making the above mentioned repairs. I appreciate any suggestions.

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