I just received this pin yesterday and all the flippers were not working. Upon investigation I see that the fuse is blown on the fuse holder. I am new to pins but, have some decent understanding of electronics.

I have checked the flippers and other than the switches being a little corroded they appear to be fine. What else would cause these this fuse to blow?

That brings me to the next question.

While looking for the flipper problem I discovered a blown transistor. The schematics say that this goes to a special solenoid (#1 in particular). Is this relatively normal on these older machines?

Thanks for any help as Im sure this wont be the last question I ask

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best to go ahead and replace the fuse and transistor? then test?

any risk leaving the machine powered on at this point?

@wayout That pretty much answers my questions. The fuse that is blown is for the flippers.

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working through the information now. Once I've done some basic reading on the information provided. If all is safe I will power on the machine and do some diagnostics and report back with my findings. Thank you for your help.

So it is. for some reason I was looking at the colors and trying to trace the wire back to the flipper board. Looking in the book it shows it as part of the GI.

A quick update. I have not had the opportunity to fully check the machine. Upon initial investigation the pop bunpers, sling shots and flippers dont work. Alot of the other kickouts work. Hoping they are all tied to one thing. On a side note Even though the GI fuse is blown, i don't see any sections of lights not working.

Will do more investigation tomorrow.

You sir are amazing, with your wealth of knowledge . My left gate doesnt work so you are absolutely correct.

Here is what I found.(listed below) The seven segment led is a dead giveaway.

Would it be considered overkill to just replace all the transistors? I think I counted 60 ish which would only take me about an hour to replace.

Per the bulletproofing section I figured I would go ahead and replace the CAPs as well, along with adding fuses to the bridges and replacing the battery holder with a 3f CAP. I think I would probably be out around $70 for all the caps,transistors,fuses etc... Worth it?

Also where is a good place to get the 3f caps? I found most stuff on Great Plains but, the 1n5243 only comes in rev B which is double the voltage recommended ie. 6.3v vs 13v. So I will probably need to source those elsewhere.

Either way, thank you for your wealth of information and I am already compiling an order. I'm overly eager to get this machine back to life. Right now everything powers up sounds good but, its like a man with no arms at a clapping contest. Just pitiful really.

System 11 CPU board.
Part number D-10881. Uses a 7 segment LED on the CPU board to display the game's diagnostic codes. This version of system 11 contains the amplifier circuit for the sound board. It also has a complete, but unused opto switch circuit.

System 11A CPU board.
Part number D-11392. Uses 3 LED's to replace the 7 segment LED for the game's diagnostic code display on the CPU board. The special solenoid circuit is changed; jack 1J18 now has ground connected to pins 6,7. Also zener diodes ZR3-ZR8 (1N5234, 6.2 volts) were added. Finally jumpers W16, W17 were added to ground pin 38 of the 6802/6808 microprocessor U24. If a Motorola microprocessor is used, W16, W17 must be connected. If any other brand of microprocessor was used W16, W17 must not be jumpered.

@john I was typing up that long reply and didnt even see yours . I am going to pull the board later today and check to see if the diodes were added. As far as the transistors, I've followed a guide that suggested using the ohm portion of the DMM one side connected to the ground strap the other on the TAB and check for a null reading.

In other replies this has been stated as inaccurate. I did test the right bank of 16 and some registered some did not. If there is another way to do this please let me know.

EDIT:

by the way you own one of my favorite pin's. Monster Bash such a great game. Also both you and madman have CFTBL. Im a little jelly! One day.....

Yeah going to replace them with 3f CAP.

I thought I posted this earlier but, I guess it did not go through.

I have removed the board from the machine and see some foolery. It does appear at some point the transistor for q75 and q76 were replaced. I will make sure to post all the pics tomorrow morning along with the order list from Great Plains .

I do see some corrosion around some of the IC's so a good cleaning and reflow of the solder cant be a bad thing.

I do have one question, some of the transistors are TIP42 can those be replaced with the same TIP102's or do I need to order something special for that bank of 8?

I already ordered the parts before I saw this message. I have replaced the tip 122's with tip 102s and replaced the tip 42's with mosfets, removing the ceramic resistors and putting jumper wire in it's place. I also put in a 1.5f capacitor for the battery and have since done the upgrade for adding the diodes in the special section of the board.Added fuses to the bridge and replaced fuses throughout the board. So I think i have my bases covered there. However, much to my dismay I powered on the board and see magic smoke... Looks like I burned up one of the pre drivers for the mosfets, so, I've powered down the machine and am awaiting parts from greatplain to replace the pre drivers.

I also noticed today while doing some inspection that someone replaced one of the flippers with a parallel wound and didnt even do it properly. Would this mistake have burned something else up in the series that could be causing my jet bumpers, slingshots and general flipper problems?

I've placed an order with Pball life to go ahead and upgrade to fliptronics style flippers as they needed to be replaced anyway.

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