(Topic ID: 46162)

Williams Match Unit Help

By BillinIndiana

11 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by SteveFury
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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Match_3.gif
Match_2.gif
Match_Ratchet.GIF
too_much_bonus_002.jpg
too_much_bonus_001.jpg
match.jpg
Diagram.jpg
Gottlieb_AS-relay_Adjustment_B-11492.JPG
#1 11 years ago

Is there a certain way I need to adjust the match unit of my Williams Space Odyssey? The plate that has the nylon armature on it is in good condition, but the coil lets the ratchet part slide off the top of the cam.. I really don't care about the match, but it also alternates some features..
Any tips would be appreciated ! Bill

#2 11 years ago

Here's a quick animation I made of the match unit ratchet operation. A couple things to note is the brass band, which prevents reverse movement of the ratchet and the change switch in the background. The coil below the armature limits the downward travel and the ratchet pawl limits the upper movement.

Match_Ratchet.GIFMatch_Ratchet.GIF

#3 11 years ago

Not sure if it helps but this is how to adjust a Gottlieb equivalent. Might give you some idea how to set it.

Gottlieb_AS-relay_Adjustment_B-11492.JPGGottlieb_AS-relay_Adjustment_B-11492.JPG

#4 11 years ago

Nice work yet again Stevefury.

#5 11 years ago

Both very cool & helpful. Make sure the ratchet spring isn't broken. I've come across a lot that are.I believe John Robertson has them.
Izzy

#6 11 years ago

Thanks for the replies guys. I understand how it works or it is suppose to work. I just didn't know if there was a way to adjust it to keep the ratchet from coming off the top of the cam. Nice graphic Stevefury.. What is that made with?

Also, I thought my spring was broken, I couldn't tell without removing it, and actually bought a new one. Replaced both cam and plate, even though it looks like all PBR had was used parts. I understand these pieces are rare though.. Anyways I got the same problem.. I think I'll look again at the brass rollback piece. Mine was kinda wacked ..haha That is a pain to work on with all the wires soldered to the bakelite boards and the switches and coil..... Makes it a pain to move around and see..
Thanks, Bill

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from BillinIndiana:

What is that made with?

I've been using Lightwave 3D for about 10 years on a hobby level, although I'm happy to do work for others. https://www.lightwave3d.com/overview/

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

I've been using Lightwave 3D for about 10 years on a hobby level, although I'm happy to do work for others. https://www.lightwave3d.com/

I like that a lot.. I'm still in the stone age Paint Shop Pro 6..but I have nowhere near the skill to do what you did.. Nice

#9 11 years ago

Just as a quick note, I had a devil of a time for a while with my match unit because the armature would stick to the coil even after the coil was turned off.

It turned out there was a missing brass washer from under the coil as shown in the diagram. It is important the coil is magnetically isolated from the steel frame to prevent the armature from sticking using the two brass washers and brass screw.

Diagram.jpgDiagram.jpg

#10 11 years ago

Since the original brass washer under the coil was missing, I used one from my other stock. Apparently the original washer was very thin, and my stock one was too thick so I had to grind it thinner.

I am not sure what you mean by saying the ratchet is going over the top of the cam, but if the coil is too high (As it was in the case of a thick washer) the ratchet won't work. If the ratchet pawl is overshooting the ratchet, maybe the pawl itself is broken?

Here's a photo I found on the net:

match.jpgmatch.jpg

#11 11 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

I am not sure what you mean by saying the ratchet is going over the top of the cam, but if the coil is too high (As it was in the case of a thick washer) the ratchet won't work. If the ratchet pawl is overshooting the ratchet, maybe the pawl itself is broken?
Here's a photo I found on the net:

Take your 1st graphic for example.. the ratcheting part that pushes the gear would fall below the gear, in the graphic.. The coil still pulses it but it doesn't connect with the gear.

It will turn the cam(gear) a few times then slips behind(down in the graphic) the cam

#12 11 years ago

First pic is the correct way..

too_much_bonus_001.jpgtoo_much_bonus_001.jpg Second is when it slips behind the camtoo_much_bonus_002.jpgtoo_much_bonus_002.jpg

#13 11 years ago

It looks like the travel is too much for the armature. I assume the ratchet and gear are in good shape.

It's the height of the coil which limits the travel. Is that the right coil? You could try unscrewing the coil and inserting another brass washer underneath it to increase its height, thus reducing the ratchet travel.

The travel length is a fairly tight tolerance, and it's a kind of balanced adjustment between ratchet pawl travel and adjusting the brass or copper band which prevents reverse backlash.

#14 11 years ago

This is what I mean: One is normal the other has a short coil:

Match_2.gifMatch_2.gif Match_3.gifMatch_3.gif

#15 11 years ago

Yeah, that's what I was just going to post about. It seems I need the coil to be closer to the cam. It lets the plate come to far back and the ratchet falls behind the cam.
Maybe I'll see if I can find a nylon washer and put it right behind the coil to move it closer towards the cam.
Also checked with the manual coil #'s are right and the parts are used but look to be in decent shape.. I just received them from Pinball Resource the other day.

#16 11 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

Just as a quick note, I had a devil of a time for a while with my match unit because the armature would stick to the coil even after the coil was turned off.
It turned out there was a missing brass washer from under the coil as shown in the diagram. It is important the coil is magnetically isolated from the steel frame to prevent the armature from sticking using the two brass washers and brass screw.

Duh.. I just looked again and seen the brass washer behind the coil.. I don't have that part.

Sorry for the confusion, Bill

#17 11 years ago

Oh, by the way Bill... I didn't mind making these animations and helping you in what I can. It's my small way of appreciation because of this you posted in another thread:

" I really don't play it, I bought it for my 77 year old Dad. He has played it almost daily for the last year."

If you don't mind me saying, I think that is an extremely thoughtful and self-less thing to do. Double thumbs-up!

#18 11 years ago

Funny thing about it it it has worked over a year without it.. That is why I overlooked it.. I new I hadn't lost any pieces since I started working on it and it worked in the past. I'll see if I can find a replacement that will be the right thickness now.. That's my next challenge I'm going to guess!

#19 11 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

Oh, by the way Bill... I didn't mind making these animations at all. It's my small way of appreciation because of this you posted in another thread:
" I really don't play it, I bought it for my 77 year old Dad. He has played it almost daily for the last year."
If you don't mind me saying, I think that is an extremely thoughtful and self-less thing to do. Double thumbs-up!

Thanks, he's been my pinball partner for my entire life.. He use to push a chair up to them at the bowling alleys so I could play pinball while he bowled... Loved it and still love him.

#20 11 years ago

I have a copper washer..If this is the correct thickness will it make a difference that it isn't Brass? My magnet will not pick it up so I should be good right?

#21 11 years ago

Yup. Any nonferrous material will work.

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