(Topic ID: 268490)

Williams Large blue power capacitor

By southofi-10

3 years ago


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    #1 3 years ago

    sprague 36dx 30000-25dc 8004l 0102
    Large blue power capacitor found in backbox next to transformer
    Where does a person find these at a good price??

    #2 3 years ago

    Here's the current version of that part, still being manufactured: (Vishay Sprague 36DX 30000uf, 25VDC): https://www.alliedelec.com/product/vishay-specialty-capacitors/36dx303g025bc2a/70079382/

    About $50.

    #4 3 years ago
    Quoted from southofi-10:

    sprague 36dx 30000-25dc 8004l 0102
    Large blue power capacitor found in backbox next to transformer
    Where does a person find these at a good price??

    I'm curious. Why do you think that the cap needs to be replaced?
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #6 3 years ago

    Usually the big lamp supply filter capacitor doesn't need replacing. In fact I don't remember ever having to do that. The 5V and display power filters, yes. But never the big one.

    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

    $55 BUCKS!!! WTF
    See post below...

    GPE has this right at $12

    Hey man, I’m just dumping the info that’s out there as a repository for people to compare prices.

    45C109D4-1656-4DEA-991F-8368A6E6B670 (resized).jpeg45C109D4-1656-4DEA-991F-8368A6E6B670 (resized).jpeg
    #9 3 years ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    I'm curious. Why do you think that the cap needs to be replaced?

    I like to favorite threads like this to find parts that are missing, especially when you buy a project pin. OP didn’t mention a replacement so I’m assuming it’s just gone.

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    Hey man, I’m just dumping the info that’s out there as a repository for people to compare prices.
    [quoted image]

    By all means that was no dig on you.
    It was more of a being butt raped by marco.

    #11 3 years ago
    Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

    By all means that was no dig on you.
    It was more of a being butt raped by marco.

    haha I know man, just having some fun with ya

    i literally just bought that one from G-P-E for my Firepower resto for 2 reasons:

    1. Its Black
    2. Its $12

    The 40 year old original blue one is "probably" fine but now i don't even need to question it.

    Edit: 3rd reason: its GPE

    #12 3 years ago

    A couple more good options at Mouser Electronics (my favorite source for parts):

    Lowest price, exact oem specs.:
    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/ALS70A303DA025?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22YqjN7vGN3ZSFC7Ixb34xzWK9fCV4GllLQ%3D%3D

    More expensive, but known to be high-quality (and in production at least 40 years):
    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/CGS303U030V4C?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22bNos12dWCDWPsAPy5duZ7Q%3D

    #13 3 years ago

    You can also use my Bridge Board to replace it.
    It has the big capacitor split into two 15,000uF more common capacitors.
    It also replaces the two bridge rectifiers and adds fuses to those lines.
    Goto my website http://www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image to read more about it.

    Brug Bord 03 klein (resized).jpgBrug Bord 03 klein (resized).jpg
    #14 3 years ago

    When the heck did Kemet start selling electrolytics?
    As far as I remember - they specialized in ceramics, film and tantalums.
    If mouser can sell them at $10 then surely I can do better. Just contacted them...

    Cornell Dubilier used to be my preferred source for screw terminal caps. But when they raised the price from $3.50 to about $15 for one cap... that was it.

    #15 3 years ago

    Thanks for all the replys. It doesn't need changing apparently,but I was looking for a possible replacement since all the boards have been changed and a new cap would top of all componites in the backbox. And also wasn't giving 55.00 for it unless it really did need changing. All this info is great,and Inkochnito is always cool to work with !

    7 months later
    #16 3 years ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    I'm curious. Why do you think that the cap needs to be replaced?
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    I was contemplating replacing this capacitor too just due to age. Maybe no need to? Mine isn't blue, it's silver and appears to have a date code of "7918." I'm guessing that is the 18th week of 1979.

    #17 3 years ago
    Quoted from Stephan28:

    I was contemplating replacing this capacitor too just due to age. Maybe no need to? Mine isn't blue, it's silver and appears to have a date code of "7918." I'm guessing that is the 18th week of 1979.

    For which game?
    If it is an early Williams game I would recommend to use my Bridge Board.
    That way you will also have added two fuses, replaced the bridge rectifiers and the big cap.
    See post above....
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-large-blue-power-capacitor#post-5646146

    1 year later
    #18 1 year ago

    Just replaced all the caps on my Space Station boards and was wondering if I should replace the big blue (or gray in my case) cap in there as well. Is it necessary? Was just doing some PM. I’m not even sure what it does exactly. Is it a filter cap coming right off the transformer? Space Station is an 11b, so already has the fuses before the rectifiers; so no bridge board needed (I did use it in my Space Shuttle though!)

    #19 1 year ago
    Quoted from interconnect:

    Just replaced all the caps on my Space Station boards and was wondering if I should replace the big blue (or gray in my case) cap in there as well. Is it necessary? Was just doing some PM. I’m not even sure what it does exactly. Is it a filter cap coming right off the transformer? Space Station is an 11b, so already has the fuses before the rectifiers; so no bridge board needed (I did use it in my Space Shuttle though!)

    Are you referring to the large cap mounted in the head? Is your game giving you problems now? Why do you suspect it needs to be replaced? Unless it is leaking or your game isn't running right there is probably no need to replace that one. I've never had to replace any yet.

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from Robotworkshop:

    Are you referring to the large cap mounted in the head? Is your game giving you problems now? Why do you suspect it needs to be replaced? Unless it is leaking or your game isn't running right there is probably no need to replace that one. I've never had to replace any yet.

    Yes, the large one in the head. No specific issues fortunately. Was just doing PM and replaced all the caps on all the boards and was thinking whether I need to replace that large one or not. The only reason I suspect it needs to be replaced is just purely out of age. I work for a company that repairs industrial electronics and we always replace caps, especially old ones. These caps are almost 40 years old now. There’s no issues, and I’ve seen reports that it’s fairly expensive, so I think I will just leave it for now. Thanks.

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from interconnect:

    Just replaced all the caps on my Space Station boards and was wondering if I should replace the big blue (or gray in my case) cap in there as well. Is it necessary? Was just doing some PM. I’m not even sure what it does exactly.

    Not necessary! That cap is for the control lights and that cap rarely ever goes bad.

    #22 1 year ago
    Quoted from interconnect:

    Was just doing PM and replaced all the caps on all the boards

    This philosophy is counter to the better pinball rule, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
    I've seen far too many board damaged by unqualified "techs" replacing perfectly working parts.
    In general, I advise against it.
    If you have the skill and experience, press on...but the "improvement" will be nearly zero.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    -2
    #23 1 year ago
    Quoted from Shogun00:

    Not necessary! That cap is for the control lights and that cap rarely ever goes bad.

    Thank you! I figured that out and decided to leave that one.

    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    This philosophy is counter to the better pinball rule, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
    I've seen far too many board damaged by unqualified "techs" replacing perfectly working parts.
    In general, I advise against it.
    If you have the skill and experience, press on...but the "improvement" will be nearly zero.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    I do it for a living and know what I'm doing. Replacing all caps is best practice and commonplace in industrial electronic repair and pinball electronics would be no different in that regard. Capacitors can drift in capacitance over time and still work, but that doesn't mean I should just let it lie so one day I have I have a shitload of crazy issues. That may be your philosophy, but not mine. Please keep comments like this to yourself.

    #24 1 year ago
    Quoted from interconnect:

    That may be your philosophy, but not mine. Please keep comments like this to yourself.

    Please sir. There is no need to be snarky.
    I did say, if you have the skills press on.
    Congratulations on being able to handle such jobs. You are in a small minority that have honed those skills.

    We can agree to disagree, I hope.
    Regards.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #25 1 year ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    Please sir. There is no need to be snarky.
    I did say, if you have the skills press on.
    Congratulations on being able to handle such jobs. You are in a small minority that have honed those skills.
    We can agree to disagree, I hope.
    Regards.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    Thanks for all the work you have done for this community Chris. You have helped countless people.

    #26 1 year ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    I've seen far too many board damaged by unqualified "techs" replacing perfectly working parts.

    Like this. I am sure you have seen plenty of boards similar to this. Unfortunately I do not have before images and this is part way through a repair.

    • Red circles are completely removed through holes. Stitches were installed by me.
    • Orange squares are completely removed copper traces and/or pad. Jumpers were installed by me.

    wpc-89_pdb_front.jpgwpc-89_pdb_front.jpgwpc-89_pdb_rear.jpgwpc-89_pdb_rear.jpg

    I knew there were problems because there was a jumper from the positive of BR2 to the positive of C5 and I suspected that there was a problem with the negative of C11 although this missing through hole is not as critical (there is another path to ground). There was also a component side jumper to restore the zero cross circuit input. The "repair technician" that did this work really had his/her way with BR2. Just about everything you can do to destroy the circuit around it has been done.

    • All the solder side pads are damaged or complete destroyed.
    • The through holes for the positive of BR2 and C5 are completely destroyed.
    • Both the traces that tap the AC legs of BR2 are completely severed rendering both inputs to the zero cross circuit inoperative.
    #27 1 year ago

    DumbAss Yikes!
    I always hate to see that kind of hackage.
    But there is a sense of accomplishment by putting it all back right, at least as much as possible.

    Langless28 Thank you for your kind comments.

    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

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