(Topic ID: 203982)

Williams Hyperball - Unconnected Ground - Where does it go!!! Picts...

By Azurden

6 years ago



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  • 10 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Schwaggs
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#1 6 years ago

Pre Disclosure I know this is not considered a pin... And it is not... But being in collecting I think it is worth keeping around as it is that unique item that lives in a realm of video arcade and minimal pinball

Soooo... I REALLY need someone with a Hyperball to help me out. I got this HB and was a basket case... Long story, but I have it just about back together and it keeps blowing F2 on the power switching board... This is what has been done...

1: Board sent out for repair... PCB & Control/Driver Board
2: Power Switching board sent out for repair (2 of them)
3: New power brick - (old one was fried)

Got all the new boards back and everything seems to be fine... Until I plug in the coil. At that time the F2 fuse on the Power Switching board fries right away... Went thru the manual and checked what it shows... Ex: "If 15F2 blows immediately: C3, VR2, BR1, 6C2" those are all on the PS board. Everything looks ok to me... I bought a new 6C2 and am waiting for it to come back in... The coil itself is at 11ohm (seen the new ones listed at 10ohm) not sure if 11ohm would cause the issue???

I also looked at the Control/Driver board... It as a 2N4403 on it that has a short it seems across ALL legs... I assume this is a issue as well (not really good at this, so not 100% sure). But I ordered some of the 2N4403's to have on hand.

The other item is... When I got the game it had the Power Switch Board missing... In that area there is a ground wire that is hooked to the metal plate at the back of the head. It is in the area that the large caps are on the right hand side... For the life of me I cant seem to figure out where it goes. And looking at the manual I got I cant see it there either... And to top things off, there must be another manual (revision) that I need... Because in the one that I have must be for an earlier version of the game... On the manual I have it shows a 8.5k 5w resistor across the terminals of the large cap 6c2... My game has that resistor on the Power Switching board.

In any event, i am attaching pictures of the ground wire. If anyone has a HyperBall would you have a look in your head to see if you have any idea where this goes...

Note: At one point the coil WAS firing... The PCB had a few issues, as well as the switched play field lighting (bad trans) but the auger, and cannon WOULD work. Then all the sudden it started blowing F2 all the time... So, I am not sure if this ground was hooked up when it was working, or it was not hooked up at that time as I did not notice it flopping around till later. I also punched down ALL connectors and line tested for continuity.

Hope I explained this well enough... Now for picts...

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#2 6 years ago

- Don't have that ground wire and lug screwed into the back panel, as pictured on your machine. Might want to follow those wires and see where they are going.
- Power switching board has an 8.2K Ohm, 5 watt, resistor at "C1". Have two examples like this.
- The long capacitor also has an 8.2K Ohm, 5 watt, resistor mounted on the cap, from terminal to terminal. The capacitor would ordinarily be secured in the black plastic clip, with the terminals facing toward the back of the backbox.

Strange voltage readings led to a recent discovery that the sheet metal back wall of my Hyperball head had a poor electrical connection to the grounding stud in the bottom of the head. I added a ground from the power supply to the grounding stud.

Be careful around the Power Switching Board. It has 120V AC going into it. Big problem earlier this year, old operator repair, black tape, fell off the orange wires to the Power Switching Board. The exposed 120V AC, from damaged insulation, fried about a dozen parts on the driver board.

#3 6 years ago

I also don't have that black ground wire screwed in the back of the cab.

My first thought is one of the two black wires from the right BR had come off, but both appear to be on yours. Also, the black closest to this mystery wire on your power supply board is also there. Lastly, both the blue caps have one wire each, as do yours. Here are my similar shots.

Good news is - whatever it connects to has to be within that wire's length. I'd take the end around in a circular motion, working outward from the center, and see if anything catches your eye.

EDIT: I also added a wide shot of everywhere it looks like your mystery wire could attach on my machine.

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#4 6 years ago

Could you have a look at the black ground wires that are at the lug at the bottom of the cab and see where they go?

I thought the same thing to pull the wire around to see what it could attach to without any luck. I looked t every connector as well to see if I could see any pins in the connectors that could have been bent as well.

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from Azurden:

Could you have a look at the black ground wires that are at the lug at the bottom of the cab and see where they go?
I thought the same thing to pull the wire around to see what it could attach to without any luck. I looked t every connector as well to see if I could see any pins in the connectors that could have been bent as well.

I saw nothing that would be that gauge of wire - they are all thicker down there - so it's not one that somehow became detached from a lug in the base.

It's possible this is a phantom wire as neither of us with the working cabs had it. If these things could talk to tell their tales!

#6 6 years ago

Have two more favors to ask...

1: Do you have a multimeter that you could test the 2n4403 to see if it passes current across all legs? My understanding if this is should only be able to send from the base to the emitter or base to collector. But not from collector to emitter. Mine rings on all legs. You can see it in the images I posted above from the schematics. It can be found on the right of the driver board next to the plug that drives the power switcher for the cannon.

2: on your large blue cap on the right, does it have two black wires or one? Mine has only one, and the other member has a picture above that shows two. If yours does have two could you see where they go?

Ok make it 3 favors.... Could you also add a few picts on the connectors on that side of the head on the driver board and power supply? Maybe it came off on of those???

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from Azurden:

Have two more favors to ask...
1: Do you have a multimeter that you could test the 2n4403 to see if it passes current across all legs? My understanding if this is should only be able to send from the base to the emitter or base to collector. But not from collector to emitter. Mine rings on all legs. You can see it in the images I posted above from the schematics. It can be found on the right of the driver board next to the plug that drives the power switcher for the cannon.
2: on your large blue cap on the right, does it have two black wires or one? Mine has only one, and the other member has a picture above that shows two. If yours does have two could you see where they go?
Ok make it 3 favors.... Could you also add a few picts on the connectors on that side of the head on the driver board and power supply? Maybe it came off on of those???

1. Unlikely I'll get to this for a bit - wife now home from business trip and it's time for XMAS decorating. :/

2. Mentioned in above post that both my blue caps have one black each.

3. See #1.

Where does the other black wire go that's attached to the backboard there?

I'm still guessing this is a phantom wire - it just doesn't seem to belong anywhere based on two known working games.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from BabyPac:

1. Unlikely I'll get to this for a bit - wife now home from business trip and it's time for XMAS decorating. :/
2. Mentioned in above post that both my blue caps have one black each.
3. See #1.
Where does the other black wire go that's attached to the backboard there?
I'm still guessing this is a phantom wire - it just doesn't seem to belong anywhere based on two known working games.

Ok NP... Thanks for the help thus far... I also started another post as there seems to be a voltage issue off the brick that runs the power switcher as well. Not getting 120... The problems with this thing never stop...

Here is that voltage issue post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-power-issue-i-am-lost-on-this-one-should-be-simple

As for the other black wire, it grounds one of the legs of the large cap I believe... I will have a look this eve and report back to make sure I am right on that.

#9 6 years ago

Was working on one today, same black wire not connected.

#10 6 years ago

I can't look at mine to compare at the moment however, have a look at the connections on the bridge rectifiers behind the caps. It looks like the Black wire on each cap go to the negative lead of the bridge and the colored wire on the cap goes to the positive lead.

I bet the connector on the negative lead on the bridge has a wire leading to the metal frame. Check if both bridge negative leads has this lead to the metal frame.

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