(Topic ID: 254767)

Williams High Speed repair questions

By songbird

4 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#2 4 years ago

These are all special solenoids that are acting up. Since they work in test consistently and not in game play suggests that the switch ground wire connection is flaky. This ground wire starts at the power supply 3J6 pin 14. So the header pin on the back of the power supply could be cracked. Or the white wire could be coming out of the IDC connector. If both of these are good then it could be a poor connection at the molex connector that connects to the playfield. You didn't say if the upper playfield red flashers work during a game, these are also a special solenoid. If they don't stop working when the other 5 stop, then there is a break in the ground wire under the playfield.

When this happens, tap on the volume pot to see if the sound come back.

F-1 Displays. F-2 Solenoids. F-3 Controlled lamps. F-4 Solenoids. F-5 Input to BR1. F-6 Input to BR1. Flipper power supply fuse for all 3 flippers. Single fuse located by itself lower right of the backbox is for both hide out coils and kickback coil. Single fuse located upper center of the backbox is for the beacon and light.

Most likely you have a shorted transistor which will turn this on any time the power is on. If you have a logic probe I can help you troubleshoot this.

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#5 4 years ago
Quoted from songbird:

I found fuse F6 was open by checking it with my DMM. Replaced the fuse with a MDL 7, bit didn't notice any difference in behavior. What would be the impact of F6 not working?

This fuse must have gone bad from removing it. When bad the CPU will not boot, only the GI will light.

Quoted from songbird:

Red and blue flashers seem to work pretty consistently even when the kickers and jet bumpers do not.

I misspoke earlier, the upper play field flashers are the 2 at the very top of the play field. They are not colored, sorry. Check them in test to see which flashers that I'm talking about. It's solenoid #22.

Quoted from songbird:

I don't have a logic probe, just a DMM.

Set your DMM to DC volts. Stick the black lead under the ground braid in the back box. Use the red lead for testing. Turn on the power. Check test point #1 (Q-20) and #2 (Q-24) (base leads for the transistors) on the CPU board. Let me know what you find.

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#7 4 years ago

Play some games on it, I think the flashers will be fine now.
Let me know when you work on the beacon.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from songbird:

Q20 (top to bottom): 5V, 0.175V, 0V

That is fine.

Quoted from songbird:

Q24 (left to right): 0V, 24V, 0V

That looks fine too.

Quoted from songbird:

Issue #4: I normally have the red spinning police light completely disconnected from the 4-pin connector.

Reconnect the 4 pin connector and then disconnect 1J-11 from the CPU. Turn on the game does the beacon work now?

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from songbird:

Turned on the game, and the police light spins continuously in attract mode or during the game,

This is what I was expecting, but I needed you to confirm it for me. There is a grey wire on the relay, pull it off. Turn on the power, does the beacon still come on?

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#13 4 years ago

Can you tell me what the number is for each of the 4 wires on the relay. There should be #30, #85, #86, and a #87 on the relay. Red /white wires should be on #30 and #87. Grey wire should be #85 and brown wire should be on #86.

#14 4 years ago

If the wires are correct, then the relay must have welded the contacts together. If the relay turns out to be bad, you can find them a lot of places.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwihztClmdvlAhUBj1sKHcODCUQYABAyGgJ5bQ&sig=AOD64_3pkO3H1OYubBIIcnPzO2eNqPbxTA&adurl&ctype=5&ved=2ahUKEwiugsSlmdvlAhVKYK0KHULRDuAQuxd6BQgBELIB

2 weeks later
#17 4 years ago

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