(Topic ID: 254767)

Williams High Speed repair questions


By songbird

20 days ago



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  • 15 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by songbird
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 20 days ago

I've owned a WMS High Speed pinball for the past 15 years, and made a few simple repairs on it. However I've got some new problems and am not sure how to diagnose.

Issue #1: Left and right kickers (above the flippers) and the three jet bumpers fire perfectly during the diagnostic coil test, but only fire intermittently in-game. It's all or nothing in-game, and never a case where only one or two work. When they do work in-game, then they all work properly.

Issue #2: Speaker is intermittently failing. Again, it's an all or nothing deal, except that I can still hear the sounds faintly if I put my ear to the speaker. So I know all the sounds are activating properly, but the speaker is either failing or the power supply to it is failing.

Issue #3: I'm trying to identify what each fuse does, as I don't see this clearly documented in the original manual. Does anyone have a list of what each fuse supports?

Issue #4: I normally have the red spinning police light completely disconnected from the 4-pin connector. If I plug it in, it always spins + lights up and never stops. Is there some relay which could be permanently engaged and cause this to continuously run?

Thanks in advance for any help!

#2 19 days ago

These are all special solenoids that are acting up. Since they work in test consistently and not in game play suggests that the switch ground wire connection is flaky. This ground wire starts at the power supply 3J6 pin 14. So the header pin on the back of the power supply could be cracked. Or the white wire could be coming out of the IDC connector. If both of these are good then it could be a poor connection at the molex connector that connects to the playfield. You didn't say if the upper playfield red flashers work during a game, these are also a special solenoid. If they don't stop working when the other 5 stop, then there is a break in the ground wire under the playfield.

When this happens, tap on the volume pot to see if the sound come back.

F-1 Displays. F-2 Solenoids. F-3 Controlled lamps. F-4 Solenoids. F-5 Input to BR1. F-6 Input to BR1. Flipper power supply fuse for all 3 flippers. Single fuse located by itself lower right of the backbox is for both hide out coils and kickback coil. Single fuse located upper center of the backbox is for the beacon and light.

Most likely you have a shorted transistor which will turn this on any time the power is on. If you have a logic probe I can help you troubleshoot this.

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#3 19 days ago

Thanks for the suggestions; I will start working through these.

Where is the volume pot located? I've never adjusted it before.

I found fuse F6 was open by checking it with my DMM. Replaced the fuse with a MDL 7, bit didn't notice any difference in behavior. What would be the impact of F6 not working?

Red and blue flashers seem to work pretty consistently even when the kickers and jet bumpers do not. I'll chase down the ground wire on the switches and see if I can find an issue.

I don't have a logic probe, just a DMM.

#4 19 days ago
Quoted from songbird:

Where is the volume pot located? I've never adjusted it before.

Inside the cabinet, on the left side near the slam tilt and tilt bob mech. The pot(potentiometer) is a dial that may or may not have a knob on it. You turn it to adjust the volume. They can go bad and will cause sound issues like crackling.

#5 18 days ago
Quoted from songbird:

I found fuse F6 was open by checking it with my DMM. Replaced the fuse with a MDL 7, bit didn't notice any difference in behavior. What would be the impact of F6 not working?

This fuse must have gone bad from removing it. When bad the CPU will not boot, only the GI will light.

Quoted from songbird:

Red and blue flashers seem to work pretty consistently even when the kickers and jet bumpers do not.

I misspoke earlier, the upper play field flashers are the 2 at the very top of the play field. They are not colored, sorry. Check them in test to see which flashers that I'm talking about. It's solenoid #22.

Quoted from songbird:

I don't have a logic probe, just a DMM.

Set your DMM to DC volts. Stick the black lead under the ground braid in the back box. Use the red lead for testing. Turn on the power. Check test point #1 (Q-20) and #2 (Q-24) (base leads for the transistors) on the CPU board. Let me know what you find.

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#6 18 days ago

Thanks for the suggestion to look at 3J6. While inspecting pin 14, I noticed the entire 15-pin header block seemed loose, so I pushed it back into the power supply board. Now both the music and the 5 bumpers activate every time I turn on the machine or start a new game. Just a day or two ago the music was only 25% of the time, and the 5 bumpers were 0% of the time. So I think this solves issues #1-3. Awseome!

There is another intermittent issue which has been there for years. When the ball goes around both outlanes in a loop (from either left to right or right to left), sometimes the red and blue flashers don't fire. I always here the "honk-honk" sound effect however and scoring / extra ball advancement works as expected, so I know the switches are working properly to detect the travel of the ball around that upper loop. Could this be a ground problem on the flashers?

Thanks for the detailed help on the police light; I will try to debug that problem this week. It's never worked properly since I got the machine, but since the game works fine without it, I've just ignored it all this time.

#7 18 days ago

Play some games on it, I think the flashers will be fine now.
Let me know when you work on the beacon.

#8 16 days ago

OK, I did some testing on the two transistors you mentioned. Here is what I measured:

Q20 (top to bottom): 5V, 0.175V, 0V
Q24 (left to right): 0V, 24V, 0V

Picture of transistors mounted on the CPU board included for reference. Let me know if you have any thoughts on this, or if I need to collect more measurements.

For the red/blue flasher issue: I've played at least a half dozen games since I got the bumpers working again, and the flashers are still only firing maybe 2/3 of the time when the ball travels the outlane loop. They seem to always fire whenever there is some bigger event, like extra ball awarded, "you ran a red light", multi-ball, etc. It's only during that "honk honk" outlane loop that they first most of the time but not always.

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#9 16 days ago
Quoted from songbird:

Q20 (top to bottom): 5V, 0.175V, 0V

That is fine.

Quoted from songbird:

Q24 (left to right): 0V, 24V, 0V

That looks fine too.

Quoted from songbird:

Issue #4: I normally have the red spinning police light completely disconnected from the 4-pin connector.

Reconnect the 4 pin connector and then disconnect 1J-11 from the CPU. Turn on the game does the beacon work now?

#10 16 days ago

I reconnected the 4-pin connector (actually only two wires in it, I suppose), and disconnected the 1J-11 header. Turned on the game, and the police light spins continuously in attract mode or during the game, same as before. Also, once I start a game, a ball won't launch with 1J-11 disconnected -- I assume this is expected.

#11 15 days ago
Quoted from songbird:

Turned on the game, and the police light spins continuously in attract mode or during the game,

This is what I was expecting, but I needed you to confirm it for me. There is a grey wire on the relay, pull it off. Turn on the power, does the beacon still come on?

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#12 14 days ago

I disconnected the grey wire from the square black relay, and yes the police light still activates and spins continuously when I power on the game.

#13 14 days ago

Can you tell me what the number is for each of the 4 wires on the relay. There should be #30, #85, #86, and a #87 on the relay. Red /white wires should be on #30 and #87. Grey wire should be #85 and brown wire should be on #86.

#14 14 days ago

If the wires are correct, then the relay must have welded the contacts together. If the relay turns out to be bad, you can find them a lot of places.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwihztClmdvlAhUBj1sKHcODCUQYABAyGgJ5bQ&sig=AOD64_3pkO3H1OYubBIIcnPzO2eNqPbxTA&adurl&ctype=5&ved=2ahUKEwiugsSlmdvlAhVKYK0KHULRDuAQuxd6BQgBELIB

1 week later
#15 3 days ago

I checked the wiring, and it matches your description. I will try getting a new relay to see if it resolves the issue. Thanks for all the help!

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