(Topic ID: 284796)

Williams High Speed Issue

By jb343

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by jb343
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 3 years ago

Hi, I have a Williams High Speed system 11. I have owned it for 20 years and recently got it going again with the help of this group. Thank you. Really enjoying pinball again, when it works...

Now, I have the following problem and seek troubleshooting advice. On a 'good' game or ball, with everything lit up, I'll get a loud noise and the display freaks out. Usually asterisks, all bars lit, some buzzing. Or the game stops with a simple beep and goes dead.

Fuse F4 usually has blown. But not always. This fuse controls most of the solenoids. The diagnostics don't indicate any obvious issue to me, but I'm no expert. I'm thinking something is triggered, maybe one particular solenoid while the current is high, but how do I find this? Otherwise it plays ok. Worn playfield and all.

I have a manual and can read a schematic, with some limitations.

Thanks, and HNY

#2 3 years ago

Have you run through the solenoid test mode?

#3 3 years ago

sounds like power supply issues. Measure your voltages with your DMM and report back. Seems like the game is resetting or dying under load which will take out that fuse as you will get one or more locking devices when the computer stops running.

If power supply has never been touched I can guarantee the caps need to be done at a minimum.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Have you run through the solenoid test mode?

yes, they all pass when I replace the blown fuse

#5 3 years ago

thanks hawk007 will do. I replaced all (most?) of the caps when I got it. That was some time ago. Will check Power supply.

HNY

Quoted from Hawk007:

sounds like power supply issues. Measure your voltages with your DMM and report back. Seems like the game is resetting or dying under load which will take out that fuse as you will get one or more locking devices when the computer stops running.
If power supply has never been touched I can guarantee the caps need to be done at a minimum.

#6 3 years ago

TP1 4.98v
TP2 zero
TP3 10.9v
TP4 15.1 v

I also checked voltages on the connector that should be 5 v, according to the schematic. pin 7,8,9 all were 4.98 v

Quoted from jb343:

thanks hawk007 will do. I replaced all (most?) of the caps when I got it. That was some time ago. Will check Power supply.
HNY

#7 3 years ago

Check the diode(s) on every coil under the playfield including the flippers. A broken coil diode could cause resets, blown fuses, etc.

I also found a whole list of stuff to check from Clay's Guide:

Put the game in diagnostic switch test, and press all the playfield switches. Make sure no one switch activates two switches (or more) on the score display during this test (indicating a switch matrix problem, which can slam tilt a game into a reset).
Check the +5 volts on the CPU board with the game in attract mode. Should be 4.9 volts to 5.2 volts DC. If it is not in this range, there is a power supply problem (even if the voltage is in this range, there can still be a power supply problem!)
Check the input (wall) voltage to the game. It should be in the 115 to 125 volt AC range. If it is below 115 volts, resets can occur.
Check the power supply fuse holders F5 and F6. Sometimes these can tarnish or crack, or the fuses themselves can become resistive.
Replace the +5 volt filter capacitor C10 (18,000 mfd, 20 volts) on the power supply. These games are 15+ years old, and these filter capacitors have an approximate lifespan of about 10 years. So every system11 game is really due to have this capacitor replaced!
Replace the power supply capacitor at C8 (47 mfd, 50 volt). This cap often goes open and will cause a low +5 volts.
If the +5 volts is still low or the game is still resetting, replace the power supply bridge rectifier BR1. This is a 35 amp 200 volt lug lead bridge.
If the +5 volts is still low or the game is still resetting, replace the +5 volt Darlington transistor on the power supply at Q5 (2N6057, but replace with a 2N6059).
If the +5 volts is still low or the game is still resetting, replace the +5 volt regulator chip on the power supply at IC1 (MC1723C, also known as a 723C).
If the game is still resetting, look for cracked solder joints on the backs of the connector pins on all of the boards in backbox. This is a common problem and can cause reset as well. The most likely connectors to cause reset problems are power supply connector 3J6 (power out) and CPU connectors 1J17 (power in). Resoldering these circuit board connectors.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from jb343:

TP1 4.98v
TP2 zero
TP3 10.9v
TP4 15.1 v
I also checked voltages on the connector that should be 5 v, according to the schematic. pin 7,8,9 all were 4.98 v

Test point #3 is the reason you are having resets. This should be reading @ 12.6 volts dc. The bridge rectifier on the power supply maybe starting to good bad.

1 week later
#9 3 years ago

Update: Replaced the power supply with a new aftermarket version. $$ but easy. Pin is working again, for now. The bridge rectifier on the old board had been replaced. I'll source and do it again, then I'll have a spare or I'll pass it on.

Thanks for the help.

JB343

2 weeks later
#10 3 years ago

Update #2

Board and bridge rectifier were ok, as it turned out. Problem was the power plug has one pin that was damaged or loose. This was a good thing to find as both sides of the plug had potential damage. Should be ok now.

Now I have an extra board!

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