I'm mainly an arcade guy...I have and have had a few pins over the past couple of years, but other than rebuilding power supplies I haven't had to do anything to them. I picked up a project High Speed recently, and cosmetically it's in great shape, but other than a few lamps lighting, it does nothing when turned on. The power supply definitely needs to be rebuilt as it only outputs 4.7v which drops to 3.5 under load. The cpu has no acid damage or other visible damage, but I will reflow the headers and check more closely soon. Also, the 2.5 amp fuse from pin 5 of the flipper power supply blows immediately! Would this indicate an issue with one of the br's, relays, or solenoids downstream, or with the board itself...or could it be either or both? It also looks like there were some mods done to the transformer wiring, like the 6.3v lines were replaced, but as far as i can tell that looks like it was done properly, although i don't know why? I was told it had "a couple of bad solenoids," and there are like a half dozen old ones lying on the bottom of the cab, so many have been replaced...can these be tested in circuit without powering the game up?

My main question is, is there a "flow chart" for working on pins? With arcades, it's fairly simple...power supply, connections, board/monitor issues and that's pretty much it. My plan is to address the power first, but are there things I need to check before powering the game up?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks,
Mike

thanks guys...i'll proceed as planned then. i really just wanted to make sure that it's not necessary to check all br's, solenoids and relays before powering up...there's so fricking many!!!
i'm sure i'll be asking for more help soon

Rebuilt the power supply (luckily i had all the caps and transistor on hand), the game now starts up and appears to work normally. I can coin up and start the game, but no ball advances to the plunger and the flippers won’t work. (In test mode the flippers did respond properly).
Now I’m guessing I need to address the 2.5A SB fuse that pops every time the game is turned on. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Again, it is the one leading to pin 5 of J3 on the flipper power supply.
Even with the fuse removed, though, shouldn’t the ball advance when a game is started? It doesn’t look like that coil is powered through the flipper board. Can someone explain how to test the coil in more detail?
Thanks again!!!

Also, in test mode, it shows upper right hidout as being stuck. I’m pretty sure it means the issue with the fuse has to do with either that solenoid or br...is this a good assumption?

Thanks for the advice and info...turns out, there was actually a fuse stuck inside of the right upper hideout switch!!! It was holding the switch closed and blowing the 2.5a fuse...kinda ironic since the stuck fuse was a 2.5a sb!!! There are fuses strewn all over the inside of this thing.

Anyways, at this point I seem to have the game nearly fully working. I cannot get either the Left lower or upper hideout switches to work, all other switches register fine. Also, when I have a ball in the hideout (during the chase) and another one is hit into the hideout as well, both balls get stuck there. I’m not familiar with this game at all, so I’ll have to do some digging to see how it’s supposed to work, but I am getting close!

Any suggestions on what to look for with the two remaining issues?
Thanks so much guys!!!

Oh...also, the “speeder 3” numeric display is not working. Are replacements available anywhere other than buying a complete led kit?

Damn...this pin is frustrating! So, the fuse is still blowing, apparently the stuck switch was just coincidence, i've gone through about 20 bucks in fuses trying to figure this out I thought I had pinpointed the culprit as the knocker (someone had previously cut the connecting wire to it, and I rewired it and later, doing the test described above, the fuse blew when the knocker fired), but even with it disconnected again, the fuse still blows...not immediately, however, this last time it was after the ball got stuck in the left hideout...so I'm now wondering if it has something to do with those switches not registering???

As far as the left hideout switches go, both switches physically work, and the green/black wires have continuity to pin 5 of J8. What I have noticed, though (after watching gameplay videos) is that mine is constantly revving!!! So, can someone explain to me how the revving sound works? I'm guessing there's a stuck switch above the left hideout switches (either number 37 or 38), but I have no idea where to look!?!?

I really want to get this working after watching the gameplay videos, it looks like an amazingly fun pin!!!

Thanks again,
Mike

I think I found the other switches, and now of them register either...looks like none in that column work. I'm going to replace q43 and see where that gets me.......

DAMMIT!!! So close......Replacing q43 got all switches working, except "right flipper engine revving," for some reason. The game appeared to be working perfectly, until a ball goes down the left outlane, that is. As soon as the left outlane switch is hit, the game resets!?!?!?! This didn't happen before. Also, during the coil test, it resets when the kickback is engaged. ARGHHHHHHH...time for a beer......

Thanks for the reply...I got the right EOS working, it was just dirty.

As for the reset, it was working fine before I fixed the bad transistor, so I doubt one of the diodes just went bad, but is there a way to test them in circuit, does a simple diode test work in circuit?

Thanks!

I have at this point only tested the left outlane diode, and it is fine. As far as the other switches on that row, all of them work fine (slam tilt displays tilt on the display and stops gameplay) as well as all other switches on that column. It only resets when the left outlane switch is engaged during gameplay or the kickback coil is supposed to be engaged during the coil test...should I suspect q7???

Looks like that kickback coil is bad. I removed it, and the left outlane switch worked fine. I tested the diode, and it was bad, so I replaced it. After putting the coil back in and turning the game on, the fuse immediately blew and the coil smoked. I'm guessing this coil was the cause of my fuse issue the entire time. Time to learn how to replace a coil now

Long delay waiting for parts! I've replaced the kickback coil, but the fuse blows immediately when I turn it on again
I've ordered a few t102's and plan on replacing the q7 and the pre driver. If it's not those, could the relay be bad???
Without the kickback attached, the game plays perfectly......crazy fun game, I gotta figure this out!!!
Thanks

Major DOH! Moment.....when I put in the new solenoid I wired it exactly as it was when I took the old one out. There’s definitely been some shotty repair work done on this before as the bottom of the cab had about a half dozen coils and other parts just lying in it. Taking it out again last night, I realized it had been wired in backwards!!! The ground wire was on the banded side of the diode, I was shorting out the fuse as soon as I powered it up.

I haven’t powered it up again yet, since I have the board out I’m going to replace q7 anyway, but I’m fairly sure I should have this one figured out now

I’ll throw up some pics later this evening...thank you all so much for helping me through it!

wish i would've read this before i fired it up last night!!! oh well, i bought a couple of new coils...blew the main 4a fuse and smoked the coil, but no other damage thankfully.

just to be double sure before i do more damage...the blue wire is the ground wire and goes to the non-banded side of the diode, correct?

thanks a lot, i'm getting close, new light motor should be on my porch when i get home

Thank you soooo much...high speed is working perfectly now!!! What a great game. I bought this one to play around with and sell, but it's on it's way into the arcade now

You've all been extremely nice and helpful walking me through my first pin. I greatly appreciate it!