(Topic ID: 152502)

Williams High Speed Build From Empty Cab

By aytsgamer

8 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 183 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by aytsgamer
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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There are 183 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
#101 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

So firing it up was accompanied by a tiny bit of smoke.

Was this just from the flipper coils?

#102 7 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The only other black wire was the black/blue wire which mine ...

It finally jumped out at me lol! My main issue after matching up the wires was the fact that I still had the connector at IJ8 unplugged duh.

Secondly, I was so focused on matching the wires that I forgot that I had to add wires to the tilt harness.

This morning I added two wires to the harness the brn/gry and the blk/blu. Wired the brn/gry to the coin relay. I was going to ask you where the blk/blu goes, but I now know I don't need it.

I've been runnin' reds every since!

Whooooo reinstated!

#103 7 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Was this just from the flipper coils?

I'm not really sure where it came from. I had the PF up prepared for something like that. I have one pop bumper that doesn't do anything, I'm wondering if that's what burned up. Whatever went was near the back of the PF, near the back box.

#104 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

I still had the connector at IJ8 unplugged duh.


Now do a switch test and use page 26 of the manual to check everyone on the matrix. You need to be 100% correct. Then do a coil test and compare with page 2. If its 100% correct then your ready to play.

#105 7 years ago

Both tests were 100% accurate, but the same component failed on both.

Switch #35 rt jet bumper
Solenoid #19 rt jet bumper

In the edge test if I press rt bumper skirt nothing.

During the coil test the other two bumpers are fired. It displays #19 but it doesn't fire.

#106 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

Switch #35 rt jet bumper

This wont show up if the coil doesn't fire because this is a special solenoid, if you do it manually by pushing down the metal ring it should show up then. Try it and see.

Quoted from aytsgamer:Solenoid #19 rt jet bumper

If this is all that doesn't work you did very good wiring up this mess of parts. First check both coil lugs for DC volts. If this is good then find which transistor controls this coil on page 2 of the manual. Then briefly ground the tab of the transistor, does the coil fire then? If yes then the wiring is good to the transistor and you have a board problem. Let me know.

#107 7 years ago

Right Jet Bumper is Q73, middle right side of the CPU board.

#108 7 years ago

When I manually pushed the ring down rt pop bumper did show up on edge test.

Also when I grounded Q73 the thr rt bumper coil did fire. So it looks like I have a board issue.

#109 7 years ago

Forgot to mention I had power at the coil.

#110 7 years ago

Do you have a logic probe?

#111 7 years ago

Yes I have one. I have to find it though.

#112 7 years ago

You better start looking for it. When you do find or if you find it, turn on power, hook red lead to 5 volt pin on CPU and black lead to ground. Set probe switch to TTL. Put the game in coil test and lock it on the right bumper coil. Test U45 pin 3 and 2. Pin 3 should be low and pin 2 should have low pulses, if that's correct then check pin 1. Pin 1 should have high pulses. If it doesn't have high pulses then the 7402 nor chip is bad. If it has high pulses then probe both side of resistor 105, one side should be low and the other should have high pulses. If this is good then you need to replace Q73, if you did not get the high pulses the you need to replace Q72.

#113 7 years ago

Tore the house up, found my probe. My manual button doesnt work so I locked with a plastic clamp. Everything checked out, so Q73 it is. TIP102?

#114 7 years ago

I use Tip 102, about 60% stronger than a Tip122. You should check the ohms of the pop coil, should be at least 4 ohms. Also you should double check the spoon switch for proper gap.

#115 7 years ago

Couldn't find any TIP 102 in town so waiting on mail.

I took a look at the spoon on the bumper, it looks OK to me. It makes contact when the skirt is pressed.

The coil has 4.1 ohms

I noticed that during the test (grounding the transistor) that rt pop bumper fired but the ring got hung up on the release. I thought it was something mechanical. (Maybe something in there physically preventing it from coming back up). It goes down and comes maybe half way up. Had to physically help it up.

So I was puzzled to find that ring moves very smoothly and freely when actuated manually

The other 2 pops fired and released no problem.

Does this maybe point to why the driver failed?

#116 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

Does this maybe point to why the driver failed?

No, everything that you checked is normal. So it means that the Tip just failed from old age.

Quoted from aytsgamer:I thought it was something mechanical. (Maybe something in there physically preventing it from coming back up).

It needs a new plunger and sleeve. The plunger tip is starting to mushroom and drag on the sleeve. Also check the coil stop for wear and replace if needed.

#117 7 years ago

Have you been keeping track of all the costs and time involved with bringing this back from the dead? I would be very interested in those totals.

#118 7 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Have you been keeping track of all the costs and time involved with bringing this back from the dead? I would be very interested in those totals.

I have. I knew going in this wasn't the cheap way to do things.Individually buying parts is probably the worst aspect. This all started with an $80 empty cab off of Craigslist. With that being said I'm in the $1200 range. That may be a little high compared the what you can get a HS for. I like to joke that it's easier for me to put more money into a game than its worth, than to come up with loads of money at once.

As far as time on this one. Ive had it maybe a month. I have around 40 hrs into it. I have to thank everyone that offered up parts and services, otherwise I wouldn't be just about ready to play this game

#119 7 years ago

$1200.00 is right in the middle price range for a working HS. When I purchase a pin I will put 25-50 hrs. into cleaning and tuning. I think your right on track for this project. You also know this pin inside out!

#120 7 years ago

Very cool project! Glad to see your a bring life back into it!

#121 7 years ago

Got rid of this toasty connector at the power supply.

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#122 7 years ago

Staying busy.

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#123 7 years ago

Nice progress!

#124 7 years ago

What lites the 20,000 kickbacks on the lower left and right? Are they lit during attract? I've never seen mine actually come on.

#125 7 years ago

Just watched a video, the kickback lites were flashing. Hopefully just blown bulbs.

#126 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

Are they lit during attract?

Yes they are.

Quoted from aytsgamer:What lites the 20,000 kickbacks on the lower left and right?

Fisrt time you go into the inlane it lights the opposite freeway and honks at you, you have a short time to run the freeway, if you do it in time, this will then light the 20,000. The next time you go thru the inlane when its lit, it will relight the kickback light.

#127 7 years ago

Nice work. Keep plugging, you are winning the battles.

#128 7 years ago

Alright replaced the transistor at Q73 and I now have a working rt pop bumper. It is also the best pop bumper now lol. Seeing a little more action at the top of the PF now. This is a very cool game. I guess now it's all about the little stuff and fine tuning the gameplay. I plan on addressing the broken left flipper return spring, cracked rubber, burned bulbs, ramp shot mis-aligned, EM legs, missing/broken plastics, etc.

Very impressed with the flippers. I hear a lot of HS have ramp shot issues. I got lucky on that one, these flippers are responsible for a lot of damage!

#129 7 years ago

I'm just getting around to replacing some bulbs on the Playfield. I've noticed that some of the bulbs I've replaced work fine just blown bulbs. A couple others when I replace them with new bulbs they still don't work.

#130 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

A couple others when I replace them with new bulbs they still don't work

Test the diode to see if its open both directions, if so then replace. If diode is good then check continuity of both wires back to the CPU.

#131 7 years ago

I found one bad diode and replaced it. No change. After taking a closer look it seems my lights connected to red/brn are out. I think the whole row is out.

#132 7 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

check continuity of both wires back to the CPU.

To rule out play field problem.

#133 7 years ago

Oh yeah I'm sorry. I had continuity, the wiring seems good.

#134 7 years ago

Check continuity of R113, Check D4 and check Q80.

#135 7 years ago

I checked R113 and D4 they seemed to be working okay. I'm not too sure how to test Q80.

#136 7 years ago

1.Put the DMM's red lead on the left leg of the transistor.
2.Test to the middle leg and the right leg with the black lead.
3.You should get a reading between .3 - .9 volts on each (the two reading should be about the same).
4.Put the black lead on the left leg of the transistor.
5.Test to the middle leg and the right leg with the red lead.
6.Your DMM should read open on each.
7.Test across the middle and right legs, you should get an open reading.
8.Reverse leads on the middle and right legs, you should get an open reading.

Remember that Darlington transistors can sometimes give odd readings. When in doubt compare your readings to a known good transistor of the same value and the same manufacturer.

#137 7 years ago

(With the flat metal side of the transistor facing away from me) red lead on left leg middle is -(neg)1.2 -2.2, the right leg is in .3-.9 range you mentioned. Same thing except positive 1.2 -2.4 when I reverse the leads.

Red lead on left with middle and right .0-.4

When reversed -.0 to -.2

#138 7 years ago

Something tells me I will be working on this board again. I didn't realize how many lights were out. What are they calling the big blue PF lights in the manual? Just dawned on me that those don't work either.

#139 7 years ago

I have the full top red light, motor, and plastic sign "Williams Hot Action Pinball", if you need those. The red light is excellent, the red cover is excellent, the sign is new reproduction. Let me know if you still need one when you get to that point.

#140 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

Something tells me I will be working on this board again

Your in the home stretch, Sounds like its time for a new tip.

Quoted from aytsgamer:What are they calling the big blue PF lights in the manual?

Flasher No. 2 (Q31) and Flasher No. 3 (Q23), Ground the tabs and see if the bulbs and resistors are OK first. If I remember correctly they are 4 #63 7volt bulbs wired in series with a droping resistor. If one bulb burns out nothing works.

#141 7 years ago

Checked the flashers out. I got all 4 bulbs on each one when grounded.

#142 7 years ago

I guess the flashers work during gameplay. Not sure if they are supposed to flash during "all lamps"?

#143 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

Not sure if they are supposed to flash during "all lamps"?

No not all lamps, they work during coil test.

#144 7 years ago

(Rant)Got the chance to play High Speed recently at Pinball At The Zoo. It took me about an hour to get on the machine. That game played great. I commented on my flipper strength previously, I take it all back. That game definitely had a flipper rebuild, they were like new. I hope to come close to the "playability" of that game.

#145 7 years ago

In time.

#146 7 years ago

I replaced Q80 and there was no change. All the lights in the row are still out.

#147 7 years ago

Maybe I am overlooking something on the wiring underneath PF. The new TIP seems to be working.

#148 7 years ago

Pulled Board out again. Double checked my solder job at Q80, had a bad joint. I also reflowed pins with cold solder joints. Taking a good long look before I put it back. The 8 screws and all the connectors are killing me

#149 7 years ago
Quoted from aytsgamer:

The 8 screws and all the connectors are killing me

Hopefully for the last time.

#150 7 years ago

Wow rob you are a tenacious crazy lover of pinball. I honestly didnt believe you had the skills... to pay the bills as they say, but wow!!! I am really impressed.
I was reading, I hope my tilt bob assembly didnt give you too much trouble. I may have to hire you to come over and get my es and pf games working.
cheers, kruzman

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