Kalamazoo, MI
Down to pretty much just the CPU now.
(Topic ID: 152502)
Linked Games
High Speed
Williams, 1986
Topic Gallery
Quoted from GRUMPY:When you make that last wiring harness you should be ready for some fun!
Waiting on connectors for the harness, I should have them by Monday. I was having trouble finding wire in the colors needed, so I picked up a data east bridge harness for $5. A good deal for two bridges and coded wire.
I could use a little help on the wiring for the terminal strip for the beacon. I have the relay wired, but I am unsure of where exactly the wires go on the strip . Looks like positions 1,3, and 5 are used on the strip. I'm not sure of the value on the dropping resistor or if a diode is used or not. I am using a terminal strip from underneath the PF so it should be pretty close to what's needed
Quoted from aytsgamer:so I picked up a data east bridge harness for $5. A good deal for two bridges and coded wire.
This maybe almost ready to use as Data east copied Williams very closely.
Quoted from aytsgamer:I could use a little help on the wiring for the terminal strip for the beacon.
Take a pic of what you have installed so far and install the terminal strip where it needs to go and I can help with the connections.
Quoted from aytsgamer:Here's my relay
Is this a factory relay or is this an aftermarket automotive style cube relay? Is there numbers on the the terminals like 30, 85, 86 and 87?
Also if you wire this just like the manual says on page 47 the beacon will be on at all times. And when the relay turns on the fuse will blow.
Toronto, ON
Quoted from GRUMPY:Is this a factory relay or is this an aftermarket automotive style cube relay? Is there numbers on the the terminals like 30, 85, 86 and 87?
This is a 12v 30a relay from auto parts store for horn or lights. Terminals are 30, 85 etc.
Quoted from eh97ac:Looks stock, here is mine before the rebuild.
IMG_20140116_210143_(resized).jpgIMG_20140116_210149_(resized).jpg
Awesome shot of the wiring. Thanks
Bermuda Triangle
I rec'd my terminal strip today and since this strip was used underneath the PF the resistor is different. I went to a local electronic parts distributor for a 100ohm 10% 3w resistor. I was expecting a cemented square resistor but he gave me (pictured). He told me that this was closer to the desired resistance than the cemented resistor. Any input?
Quoted from aytsgamer:I was expecting a cemented square resistor but he gave me
Were you going for restored or working? Because what you got will be fine. As for the wires on the relay, I can't tell if it's a 4 or a 5 terminal relay. Red/white from the fuse goes to #30, red/white wire from the motor/light goes to #87. Your black (brown) wire goes from #86 to pin 1 or left side of strip. Your green (grey) wire goes from #85 to pin 5 of the strip. B+ 34 volts Red wire goes to pin 3 of the strip. You can get this B+ voltage from the knocker coil. Then mount your resistor from pin 5 to pin 3. Then mount a 1n4007 diode from pin 3 to pin 1 with the band facing the pin 3 side. The last wire is grey/yellow and comes from CPU 1J 11 pin 5 and goes to pin 1 of the strip.
DE harness worked out really well. Snipped two wires that weren't needed. Re-pinned the wires from the 9-pin molex connector to a 6-pin molex connector. Re located the negatives from the DE connector to 3J2. Connected big cap. Should be all set.
Quoted from aytsgamer:I'm not sure if I don't have enough balls
You need three.
Quoted from aytsgamer:but wont coin up
If you have three balls installed then do a switch test on the coin switches and the trough switches. Great work so far. 
I have 3 balls in the game. If you are saying check the switches in the diagnostic menu, I'm having trouble with that.
My diagnostic switches don't work properly(I think) I can advance through the menu, and if I hold down the auto/manual (it doesn't stay up or down)I can reverse through menu. I can't seem to execute or make changes. I've tried the third button on the coin door, start button. Nothing has worked so far. I can test the switches and see if they work with my meter
Oddly(cool) when I get it back to "game over" it gives me a sound when I hold both flipper buttons.
Well I was able to figure out how to get it to the switch tests. The 3 trough switches register the balls. The coin switches had continuity when I checked.
I also did the switch edge test. The game recognizes every switch on the game EXCEPT the upper rt. flipper EOS, the upper rt. pop bumper, and the credit button. The pop bumpee doesn't actuate when hit but the EOS is recognized by the test.
Here is something odd. During the switch edge tests every function showed the correct correlating function on on the display.
When pressing the rt flipper button "LL yellow bank is shown
When pressing the left flipper button it goes between "LL hideout" and "right outlane" ????
The quoted locations display correctly when actuated.
Its starting to sound like column 1 isn't working. I would pull off 1J8 and 1J10 from the CPU board and manually test the switch inputs to insure the CPU is right first. If that checks OK then I would look for a break on the green/brown wire that goes from 1J8 pin1 to the first 8 switches in the switch matrix. Your almost there.
Quoted from aytsgamer:EXCEPT the upper rt. flipper EOS
When this game refers to EOS switch, it really means lane change switch but there is no lane lamps to change so they labeled it EOS. Now all three flippers have EOS switches on them, but the upper flipper doesn't have a lane change switch so there is no indication in the switch test for it.
Quoted from aytsgamer:When pressing the rt flipper button "LL yellow bank is shown
Does the flipper move when you hit the button in switch test?
Quoted from aytsgamer:The coin switches had continuity when I checked
Do you mean right at the switch? Have you checked the wires all the way to the CPU?
Flipper doesnt move when button is pressed in test mode, I manually moved them.
I did not get a tone on the upper flipper
I did not follow the coin switches(wiring) all the way back yet. Just checked to see if switches were bad.
Quoted from aytsgamer:Any possibility that the pinout is different in the plumb bob (f14)harness I used
I'm not sure, but I will check this out for you.
They look the same.
Quoted from aytsgamer:Any possibility that the pinout is different in the plumb bob (f14
Quoted from aytsgamer:Flipper doesnt move when button is pressed in test mode, I manually moved them
When you manually move the left flipper you should have switch #37 show in test and only #37. Must have balls removed from the game first. When you do the lower right flipper # 38 and only # 38. Nothing shows when doing the upper flipper.
Quoted from GRUMPY:They look the same.
When you manually move the left flipper you should have switch #37 show in test and only #37. Must have balls removed from the game first. When you do the lower right flipper # 38 and only # 38. Nothing shows when doing the upper flipper.
When I manually move left flipper I get #38 and very ocasionally the correct #37 will flash.
On the right flipper I get #38
Removed IJ8 and IJ10. The reading from IJ8 pin #1-#9:
2?,10?, 17, 25, 33,41,49, No reading on last pin.
Quoted from aytsgamer:When I manually move left flipper I get #38 and very ocasionally the correct #37 will flash.
When in switch test with no balls installed and your not touching switches, does any switches report then?
Quoted from aytsgamer:Removed IJ8 and IJ10. The reading from IJ8 pin #1
To the plumb bob then ball roll then credit button and so on looking for a break in the green/brown wire.
I did find that the right trough switch was stuck behind the ball release and not functioning properly.
I have followed the grn/brn wire I have not found an obvious break or loose wire yet but still looking. The tilt ball roller connection did have some noticeable corrosion.
Quoted from aytsgamer:I have followed the grn/brn wire I have not found an obvious break or loose wire yet but still looking.
Check it with your meter.
Quoted from aytsgamer:I did find that the right trough switch was stuck behind the ball release and not functioning properly.
Will the game coin up now?
Okay I have traced the grn/brn wire using my meter from the switch back to the board and I can't find a short in the daisy chain. I may be doing something wrong though.
I did notice there there is a difference in connection on my molex between the plumb bob wiring and the connector at board. Unless it's supposed to be that way , that's the only miss I found.
There is no connection from one side of the molex to the other as far as grn/brw wire. They are in tew different locations.
Quoted from aytsgamer:There is no connection from one side of the molex to the other
Thats part of your problem, check this connector very carefully as they should all match one side to the next. This will fix the whole first column of switches.
Now you need to fix switch #37 and #38 so you can put your high score up. Great job bringing this back from the dead!
Thank you. I couldn't have gotten this far without help from you guys.
When I go to tackle switches #37 & #38 am I using the same technique to find a short in the row/column?
I'm thinking I may have caused my own issue with the flippers. Rookie mistake, I'm pretty sure I got the flippers all wired up and forgot to gap the new switches. In addition the pinout not matching.
So firing it up was accompanied by a tiny bit of smoke. 
Hopefully I didn't do something I can't undo.
I redid the connector and there were a few changes. I paid close attention to the wires however the game is still acting a little wierd.
On the 24 pin female (HS) connector there are 20 slots used. There are only 18 used on the (f14) side.
I matched everything up on both sides of the connector with the exception of blk/blue wire I removed for the 4th flipper (not needed), and the two wires that had no match (Black & brown/gry).
Now during diagnostic test flippers work. But not much else.
Quoted from aytsgamer:and the two wires that had no match (Black & brown/gry).
The brown/grey is solenoid 16 coin lock out coil and it should be in pin 7 on the connector. The black wire is a black/red wire and goes to pin 4 in the corner of the connector. The only other black wire was the black/blue wire which mine has on one side only. This black/red wire goes to the door switch.
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