Williams High Speed Build From Empty Cab

Hello everyone. I am attempting to build a High Speed from an empty cab I picked up.
I also have a complete PF, Back Glass, power switch/cord harness, bottom speaker, transformer, backbox wiring. I'm pretty sure there is a display pcb in the backbox, although I'm not sure if it works or not.

I need input as far as what other boards in the backbox(for example sound, power supply etc) will I need to find to complete this project. I see a lot of different options as far as replacement parts, 11, 11a,11b, I just want to get the correct parts.

Thank you in for advance for any help.

#2 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

You will need a System 11 CPU board, a power supply, a back ground sound board, a flipper power supply board, a display driver board, 2 alphanumeric displays. 2 numeric displays and a credit/match display. Also a set of 7 ribbon cables.

#3 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Thanks so much for the reply. That really helps out alot. This is going to keep me busy for a while.

#4 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Also curious about the flipper/tilt Bob wiring. Is the flipper/tilt wired into the PF harness? I can't really tell from the pictures I'm able to find. Any pics of inside of cabinet would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Rob

#5 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

There is a harness that's in the cabinet on the left side for that. Look on ipdb.org for the pic titled (under playfield) it shows the harness on the left and there is a small harness on the right that comes from the transformer.

#6 8 years ago

eh97ac

Pinside member

Toronto, ON

12y 47,800 896 3

I have some boards, displays, targets....etc, PM me if need be.

I found this helpful during my PF swap http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/categories.php?cat_id=22

and a great HS thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-full-restoration-started-whridlsoncestood-112512

#7 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

This build is going well. Thanks everyone for the help. I have located and or aquired most all of the parts I need.

Acquired

Cab/PF
Back box harness
Speaker
Displays
Display driver
Power Supply
Flipper power
Back Glass
Power switch/line harness

Located/looking

Sound board
Flipper/Plumb bob harness
System 11 MPU
Coin door
Game Roms

In the attached picture(circled)can someone tell me the name of and where to find these parts. Top of the back box to right of the beacon. The one on the right looks to be a bridge with a different mount than the others. The one on the left Im not sure.

Thanks
Rob

Zoom1-1-1_(resized).jpg

#8 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

What you have there is a automotive style relay (black cube) and a dropping resistor (white cement rectangle). The CPU turns on the relay, power then flows thru the relay and then thru the resistor to the beacon motor. Both parts are easy to find for about six dollars total.

#9 8 years ago

JEF

helicopter

Pinside member

St Marys, OH

10y 36,900 242 2 10

I have an extra HS b/g sound board tested working for $45 shipped. PM me if interested.

#10 8 years ago

FRN

Friengineer

Pinside member

10y 70,550 1,828 5

This is a very cool thread. I've never thought about building a game completely from scratch but I'm thinking about it now. Not only would you have a newish game but you'll know everything about the electronics and bulletproofing when you are all done.

#11 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Quoted from GRUMPY:
What you have there is a automotive style relay (black cube) and a dropping resistor (white cement rectangle). The CPU turns on the relay, power then flows thru the relay and then thru the resistor to the beacon motor. Both parts are easy to find for about six dollars total.

How about the thing the dropping resist is soldered to? Thanks

#12 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

Its a terminal strip that Williams used to locate wires and resistors in there older machines. If you look at the under side of your playfield you will find a bunch of these for the flashers and the snubber relays.

#13 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

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#14 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

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#15 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Picked up the plumb bob wiring. Locked deals on the sound board, shooter, knocker assy.

#16 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Complete but well worn PF. Going to try to clean it up some. I hope to find one in better condition down the road.

20160219_170708-2_(resized).jpg

1 week later

#17 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Got the transformer and speaker in.

20160308_134454_(resized).jpg

#18 8 years ago

JEF

helicopter

Pinside member

St Marys, OH

10y 36,900 242 2 10

OP
Quoted from aytsgamer:
Complete but well worn PF. Going to try to clean it up some. I hope to find one in better condition down the road.

You really do need my CPR gold HS pf. That thing is trashed. I don't think I'd put the effort into putting that pf into a game if it were me.

I just found an original HS red and yellow target(have some surface rust on them but they should clean up) which it looks like you need. Sorry, don't have a green one. I also found an original HS manual(the paper has turned pretty yellow). Make an offer if you're interested.

Just found my original black ramp as well. It has a small crack in it but is better than most out there. Although, I opted to use Freeplay's clear ramp and was glad I did.

Post last edited 8 years ago: “found ramp”

#19 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

I would love your PF but it's just not in the money for this build. I had not planned on doing much to mine, other than playing it 'til some better parts are available. Bought the PF mostly because it was complete and I wouldn't need to source much. I'm having the most difficulty finding a working cpu.

#20 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

If nothing else it was good for practice

2016-03-01_07.33.57_(resized).jpg

#21 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

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#22 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

Huge improvement.

#23 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Quoted from GRUMPY:
Huge improvement.

Thanks. I'm just about done with it. At the end of the day it's probably a good candidate for an overlay. Thankfully I found a used PF in much better condition. It should clean up much better

#24 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from aytsgamer:
At the end of the day it's probably a good candidate for an overlay

Just what I was thinking, but put it together first. Work out all the bugs and get some play time, then overlay.

#25 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Coin door arrived.

20160310_110255_(resized).jpg

#26 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Transferred wiring from short tilt Bob assy (later system 11)to existing longer tilt Bob set up.

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#27 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Shorter board.

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#28 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Cabinet wiring coming along.

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#29 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

As stated above my plumb bob/flipper flipper is a slightly later game(F14 I believe).
All wiring is going well except I notice there is an extra wire not shown on HS schematic.

It is shown on F14 schematic as an upper left flipper. HS does not have an upper left flipper. Since it is not used in my application is it okay to secure off to the side?

2016-03-11_12.26.16-1_(resized).jpg

#30 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

Its very easy to remove the wire from the connector.

#31 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Quoted from GRUMPY:
Its very easy to remove the wire from the connector.

Even better. Make it disappear.

#32 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Displays

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#33 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Displays are complete.....but does it work?
We will see.

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#34 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Upon closer look one of my alphanumeric displays need a little attention. A few of the legs aren't making contact. Should be something I can handle.

#35 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Only a FEW more boards!

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1 week later

#36 8 years ago

MVP

Grizlyrig

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 111K 3,360 1

Like your progress,best wishes.
Mike

#37 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Quoted from Grizlyrig:
Like your progress,best wishes.
Mike

Thanks Mike. I'm having a blast. Can't wait to get it put together so I can begin troubleshooting.

#38 8 years ago

STE

sven

Pinside member

Unknown

11y 55,800 947

Nice project! One High Speed saved, great work. I hope it'll work and play well the first time you'll try it.

#39 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Can someone snap a few close pics of wiring at the flipper switches please. I really want to get cut wires to the right place. The manual is working out pretty good, but I'd like a physical look at some of this stuff.

Thanks

#40 8 years ago

PJB

paulywalnuts23

Pinside member

Vincennes, IN

11y 56,900 1,173 26 11

OP
Quoted from aytsgamer:
Can someone snap a few close pics of wiring at the flipper switches please. I really want to get cut wires to the right place. The manual is working out pretty good, but I'd like a physical look at some of this stuff.
Thanks

I can help you out when I get home.

#41 8 years ago

PJB

paulywalnuts23

Pinside member

Vincennes, IN

11y 56,900 1,173 26 11

pics sent..

#42 8 years ago

PMJ

PM_Jeremy

Pinside+ Frequent

10y 90,800 1,741 7

Nice work!

#43 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Thanks a million for the the pics. Not sure of the value of the ceramic disc caps on flipper switches . Seems like manual says 1uf 500v??? Maybe GPE?

#44 8 years ago

eh97ac

Pinside member

Toronto, ON

12y 47,800 896 3

CCD-0.1uF-500V @ GPE, 2 on the double flipper switch, 1 on the single. You don't need them to play but it helps out in the long run.

#45 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Power Supply

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#46 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

I just figured out I'm missing a small portion of the back box wiring.(a little of the wiring coming off of the 2 bridges)I could really use some help on the configuration of the male side of this connector. Also looks like I need whatever connects at 3J2 on the PS.

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20160326_112103_(resized).jpg

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#47 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

In your pic 112103, the top left pin=blue wire to the AC of the bridge. Top middle=blue to the AC of the bridge. Top right= purple from the positive of the bridge. Bottom left=red to the AC of the bridge. Bottom middle=red to the AC of the bridge. Bottom right=orange from positive of the bridge. The negatives from the bridges are black wires and go back to the power supply at 3J2 pins 3 and 6. Also a second purple wire comes off the the positive of the bridge to the big caps positive terminal and a second black wire comes off the negative of the bridge to the big caps negative terminal. And for safety you should install a fuse on the red and blue wires between the molex plug and the bridge rectifiers as the factory did not do this and its a fire hazard.

#48 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member

Quoted from GRUMPY:
In your pic 112103, the top left pin=blue wire to the AC of the bridge. Top middle=blue to the AC of the bridge. Top right= purple from the positive of the bridge. Bottom left=red to the AC of the bridge. Bottom middle=red to the AC of the bridge. Bottom right=orange from positive of the bridge. The negatives from the bridges are black wires and go back to the power supply at 3J2 pins 3 and 6. Also a second purple wire comes off the the positive of the bridge to the big caps positive terminal and a second black wire comes off the negative of the bridge to the big caps negative terminal. And for safety you should install a fuse on the red and blue wires between the molex plug and the bridge rectifiers as the factory did not do this and its a fire hazard.

Thanks much Grumpy! I ordered 2 xtra single fuse holders for the fireproofing mod.

#49 8 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

Now I see the big cap is missing, do you have one?

#50 8 years ago

RTB

aytsgamer

Inactive member