looks similar to a bally Joker Wild.

there's very little inside the cabinet? Game play is reset machine, shoot 5 balls, see what poker hand you have, no replays awarded?

what does it say on the cards?

wrt the plastics, if they are really fragile you'll probably need to make new ones. Scan, touch up, print and stick to the bottom of cut polycarbonate sheet would work. They are simple enough you may be able to make masks and pint directly onto plastic.

there's people who make repro plastics using screening, but that would be pretty costly.

just in case it's not clear, the fuse goes in either the "normal" clips or the "low" clips, not both at the same time

it's just a cheap way to pick one of two taps off the transformer. Many games used a plug connection instead.

two of the fuses are 10A, can't see what the left one is in pic ... you just get standard 10A, 250V AGC fuses from wherever ya like - hardware store, car parts place, online.

just a buzzkill suggestion ... I'd get the thing running and play with it a bit before dealing with the plastics or other time-consuming cosmetics - make sure it's something you want to keep.

191 versions? I don't see that. 189 was the Williams model number for the game.

the flyer shows plastics all the way around. The game pics people posted show metal covers on the bottom rebounds like you have. Whether there's metal under any of the side plastics who knows.

long narrow plastics with lamps underneath aren't going to survive. Those plastics would sag eventually under their own weight, and add the heat from the lamps and you'll get burnt, brittle, warped, blistered pieces over time.

if you have enough metal pieces to go all the way around, I'd use those - cut down and drilled as needed. If you want plastics on top, those designs are trivial. Scan the best pieces you have and you can make new ones using a graphics program like gimp/photoshop/inkscape.

how you make the plastics is your choice ... google for how the pinball guys do it. Given the simple design, I'd be inclined to try using a vinyl cutter to make masks then painting onto the back side of polycarbonate directly. Yellow first, green on top of the yellow, cut out shapes, done. 'course, I have a vinyl cutter

the more usual way was to color print onto something and stick the something to the bottom of polycarbonate using like spray adhesive. What the "something" is depends on whether light needed to shine through ... if it did you'd care about translucency/paper grain.

if ya get stuck, post more pics of the schematic.

the lock relay powers on the first cycle after you turn the game on and keeps itself powered.

turn on the game and manually close the lock relay and see what happens.

you can test a coil with the ohmeter function as long as the coil lugs aren't connected to each other in a roundabout path thru other devices. Either disconnect a wire from a lug or use the schematic to make sure all other circuit paths are open so only the coil itself is being measured between the two coil lugs.

compare value to any other coil with the same part number of look up resistance via google. You just need a close value, not an exact one.

on many games when the lock relay is unpowered a bunch of the game is unpowered....look for lock relay switches on the schem to see.