Post in the Heat Wave club!!

Let me know if these are sufficient.

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All the pops are rebuilt with new coils and PBR kits...replaced the mish-mash of Gottlieb coils that were there. Everything was cleaned, ultrasonic, tumbled....nice to be clean!

Pretty sure the lights go to the return wire...there is a pic of the underside of my machine on the Heat Wave club thread, I'll get a better pic later.

Here you go, taken with the iPad this time:

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Yes it is.

How are your inserts? My 100 - 500 inserts are a bit sunken.

The only wear on my machine is in the flipper area . . . these playfields seem to have held up well.

Planetary Pinball 1966 parts manual online has a diagram of the flipper assembly on page 43.

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Yes, just pop the flipper in, finger tighten, adjust the flipper on the top side and then tighten it down once the orientation is correct.

As for the lockdowns, look on top of the playfield:

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There is a C-clip that goes on the bottom to hold it down. On mine those are kind of problematic, they tend to get pushed off against the cabinet.

There are two Z-35-4200 relays in Heat Wave. The one at the back left is the Coin Relay as you have indicated. The one at the front of the machine is the Replay Relay. Careful with these relays, they run on line voltage!
The unmarked Z-27-1000 is the Reset Relay.

There is a switch on the replay stepper unit (credit wheel) that should be open only at zero credits. Make sure that switch is otherwise closed, this indicates that there are credits on the machine.

Make sure you have the schematic on order, you'll be needing it.

I do have a reproduction of the Coin Relay label drawn in SVG if you want it from the original label on my machine (plus a variety of other labels).

Here is how to reset your machine to a known state.
With the power OFF, plunge the relay bank reset solenoid (110V -- do this with power OFF). This resets all relays on the bank.
Now power ON and turn on the lights with the left flipper. The balls should release from the trough because the machine appears to have reset and is ready to start a game. The LOCK relay should energize and stay on.
Plunge the balls; as soon as you score points the GAME relay trips.
Once all balls have drained the game is over and the GAME OVER and TILT relay trip.

So in a game over state the following relays should be tripped:
- GAME
- GAME OVER
- TILT

On the backglass GAME OVER should be lit.

Try this sequence and report back.

Hi Rolf, I think I had the terms trip/latch backwards and have adjusted it.

Let's start with the pop bumpers. When the ball hits a bumper the spoon switch closes momentarily. This energizes the No. 1 (yellow) or No. 2 (red) bumper relay. The No. 3 relay is for the 10/100 green bumper.

These relays stay energized by a self-hold switch. After the bumper coil fires its end-of-stroke switch releases the bumper relay.

Inspect the switches on these relays -- clean and gap them. You can manually short the correct pair of switch blades with the tip of a flat headed screwdriver to confirm points will score if proper contact is made.

Points on these bumpers vary depending on the temperature so they are routed through the disc by the snowshoe contacts. If gapping/cleaning/shorting briefly does not work then the contacts may be dirty or misaligned.

The kickers work similarly to the bumpers. The momentary switch when you hit the kicker energizes a relay, which disengages when the EOS switch on the kicker opens. Probably the switch pair on the kicker relay that scores points is always closed.

Great work! Follow the steps in www.pinrepair.com/em to clean up that stepper unit.

The advance unit needs some oomph to turn the thermometer tape.

You should not need to desolder anything to clean the unit. Everything can be unscrewed, cleaned and reassembled. Check out Clay's guide.

The temperature lights are driven by relays on the relay bank. Every time you reach a temperature threshold the appropriate relay trips to indicate the state.

Just take everything apart and clean the disc while it dangles in the back.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B04G4TcsmGmjKNJ

It should reset all the way.

It appears that the advance solenoid pulls briefly during the reset causing the arms to re-engage the gear? Not sure if that is mechanical or electrical.

I'll get a video of my reset sequence to compare.

Check the iCloud link above, I put a video of the reset on my machine up. The other pawl arm doesn't move at all on mine. You said if you manually trip the reset it works so maybe there is a brief pulse to the advance solenoid messing things up? Or maybe the rachet arm isn't moving freely and drags the pawl arm with it. I guess you could unsolder one lug on the advance coil and see if that momentary pull still occurs.

Great news! That little arm does seem to get completely seized up!