(Topic ID: 169709)

Williams Heat Wave (1964) - Project


By MaxAsh

2 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by dr_nybble
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#1 2 years ago

Just picked up a couple of project machines, one of which is a Williams Heat Wave. The previous owner removed everything from the playfield and did a nice touch-up/clear coat, but never had the time to reassemble everything and continue the project. I'll add some pics when I have a chance.

In the mean time, I'm in the process of reassembling the playfield and various items he detached under the playfield. I've been working from pics online, but not all of them have enough detail for me to be certain of specifics like wiring. Hoping someone with a Heat Wave or knowledge of one can lend a hand.

I'm working on the Pop Bumpers right now. He de-soldered the light-bulb wires to remove the Pops. I think I figured out which wires go where on 3 of the Pop Bumpers, but the two remaining ones don't seem to have a second wire dangling like the others. From the top view, I'm working on the two pop bumpers furthest to the left.

Can someone take a pic of their light-bulb wiring on the bumpers in question, or just describe what wires or wire colors go to the bulb wires? I'll need to grab a schematic as well, but in the interim if someone has one and can let me know, that would be great! Thanks

#2 2 years ago

Are you sure you don't just want to ship the pieces to me for cheap?
Good luck! i LOVE that game.

#3 2 years ago

Post in the Heat Wave club!!

Let me know if these are sufficient.

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#4 2 years ago

Haha - heat wave club, nice! I'll have to join that thread.

I apparently don't know my left from my right. I actually need the pop bumpers on the other side, my apologies! I have the playfield upside down as I assemble, and I was viewing it backwards when I said the left side ones... I need the opposite side.

It almost looks like one leg of the light might be attached to the ground wire that runs along the underside of the playfield, but that seems weird since the other 3 pop bumpers all have 2 distinct wires going to them.

Any chance you could take pics of the other side? Sorry! thank you!

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Let me know if these are sufficient.

Dude, that is one clean machine.....

#6 2 years ago

Agreed lol. Adding pics of my situation. As you can see, I only found one dangling wire for the Pop light on the right 2 pop bumpers. The top center and left pop bumpers all had 2 wires, so it was relatively easy to figure those out. Not sure on these. Note the two oddly bent up and looped ground wire pieces nearby. No idea if they're related.

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#7 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Dude, that is one clean machine.....

All the pops are rebuilt with new coils and PBR kits...replaced the mish-mash of Gottlieb coils that were there. Everything was cleaned, ultrasonic, tumbled....nice to be clean!

Pretty sure the lights go to the return wire...there is a pic of the underside of my machine on the Heat Wave club thread, I'll get a better pic later.

#8 2 years ago

Thanks dr_nybble! I'll check back in the a.m., hopefully working on it a bunch tomorrow.

#9 2 years ago

Here you go, taken with the iPad this time:

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#10 2 years ago

Thanks! Okay so it looks like my "dangling" wires are definitely the correct ones. On the other side of the light bulb leg is yours soldered to the common/ground wire that is stapled all over the bottom of the playfield? I don't see any other wire going to that side, so guessing yes?

#11 2 years ago

Yes it is.

#12 2 years ago

Interesting - thank you!

Going to keep reassembling/soldering. Then it's plastic cleaning and assembling time. And flipper reassembly. Attaching some pic as well. It's hard to tell how nice the clearcoat is from the images, but overall you can see the PF is in great shape. I'm sure I'll have more things to sort out with this, so I'll follow-up until this one is up and running. I already see a dozen switches that are misaligned or touching when they're not supposed to since they got bent out of shape during the playfield removal/clearing process. Fun times ahead!

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#13 2 years ago

How are your inserts? My 100 - 500 inserts are a bit sunken.

The only wear on my machine is in the flipper area . . . these playfields seem to have held up well.

#14 2 years ago

The former owner used a clear coat method that leveled everything, so all the inserts are level and uncupped, it's pretty nice. He does this to all his playfields, I saw several, all his games look good.

I've never assembled flippers of this style before. I'm going to take a peek at my Bally from 1965, hoping they're similar designs. If not, might need a couple of good pics.

#15 2 years ago

Wow, That machine looks amazing Congratulations!

#16 2 years ago

You have to be happy with that PF.

#17 2 years ago

Yea, he did a great job cleaning the PF up and clearing it. I may have to inquire with him about doing some others and find out some costs, pretty slick work.

I've reattached all the pop bumper assemblies and resoldered all the connections that were removed. Also cleaned out all the bulb sockets (lots of leftover "dust" from the clear coating process in there). I think I've got just about everything reattached on the underside of the PF, now it's time to clean up the plastics and reinstall them, along with the new rubber ring kit he included. A couple of the pop bumper caps are cracked, but they have replacements at PBR. The old-style rollovers are beat up as well, but cheap to replace so I'll grab some of those when I get the pop bumper caps. Overall, pretty nice shape I'd say. I'll post some more pics when I get it more assembled.

In theory, given the amount of coating he did, I'm assuming I don't "have" to wax it, but it wouldn't hurt either, right? Seems like mixed thoughts on this overall.

#18 2 years ago

Okay... took a look at the flippers and attempted to assemble, but I don't want to screw it up. I haven't put this style together (or taken it apart) before. Is all of this part of the flipper assembly? Looking at the playfield, it almost seems like I don't need all this, but it was in the "bag of parts".

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#19 2 years ago

The two 3" Flipper assemblies do not go with the game but the rest does.

#20 2 years ago

Are those the larger, hinged pieces (second pair of items from the bottom)? Thanks

#21 2 years ago

They are the ones directly below the red flippers. The ones below that is the two playfield latches and below that the two locks that they go to the latches to lock them down.

#22 2 years ago

Ah, okay. I appreciate the info, I haven't really had to do a lot of flipper work so far, and when I have, I was always the one taking it apart before putting it back together... a lot easier that way.

Here's a pic of the underside as it sits right now. Any chance you could describe how to assemble the parts in question? I know it seems silly to ask, but better safe than sorry guessing. Thank you!

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#23 2 years ago

Unfortunately my Heat Wave is a project and in storage but I will be able to get at it in a few days and get you the info. There may be someone else with one who can get you the info sooner if you are in a hurry.

#24 2 years ago

She looks great. Mike did a great job on that PF. Can't wait to see it.

#25 2 years ago
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

Unfortunately my Heat Wave is a project and in storage but I will be able to get at it in a few days and get you the info. There may be someone else with one who can get you the info sooner if you are in a hurry.

Thanks Pinman, I appreciate it - I'll keep checking in case someone else chimes in sooner. I've got plenty more to work on in the mean time.

#26 2 years ago

That coil plunger looks awful you should replace it and the coil sleeve at some point.

#27 2 years ago
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

That coil plunger looks awful you should replace it and the coil sleeve at some point.

I'll be ordering a variety of tune-up parts for sure. I've got extra sleeves around that should work, and I'll try cleaning up the plunger a bit as well to see how bad it is before I reassemble everything. I finished putting just about everything else back together, so all I have left are the flippers at the moment. I need some new pop bumper caps (a couple are cracked) and some new old-style rollover buttons. Overall though, now that I've cleaned things up a bit, looking good.

Once I figure out these flippers, it should be looking pretty nice.

#28 2 years ago

Planetary Pinball 1966 parts manual online has a diagram of the flipper assembly on page 43.

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#29 2 years ago

Appreciate the pics - and yea I was looking at the planetary pinball diagram as well, didn't really gain much from it though since it was already assembled in the diagram.

Honestly, it just looks like the flipper slides through the plastic white piece above the playfield, down into the metal bracket coming off the linkage to the plunger. There's a small metal screw that you loosen/tighten to hold the flipper rod in place. That seems like it (assuming I line up the flipper correctly before tightening).

But I'm lost as to how to attach the below items, notated by EM-PINMAN:

"the two playfield latches and ... the two locks that they go to the latches to lock them down."

Are those not even involved? I cannot find any use for them.

Edit to add pics

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#30 2 years ago

Yes, just pop the flipper in, finger tighten, adjust the flipper on the top side and then tighten it down once the orientation is correct.

As for the lockdowns, look on top of the playfield:

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There is a C-clip that goes on the bottom to hold it down. On mine those are kind of problematic, they tend to get pushed off against the cabinet.

#31 2 years ago

/facepalm... I thought he was saying it was some sort of lockdown for the flipper, which is why I was confused. Okay, that makes perfect sense, thank you!

Working on it now, much appreciated. I found a couple of items in the "bag of parts" that I haven't found a location for yet... that should be fun. More to come, thanks again

#32 2 years ago

Okay all, I finally got this playfield all assembled, so I hooked everything up to the cabinet/head and gave it a whirl. Sadly, not working, but the good news is that I think it's closer to working than not, overall. Here's a breakdown of what I found. I welcome feedback/suggestions on what to do next. Sadly I haven't found a copy of the schematics, so I'll have to order some when I grab a few parts I need. In the mean time, anyone with Heat Wave knowledge or schematic access, please toss out whatever you can think of to check/try. Thanks! Here's where I'm at:

- Plugged in the game, pressed Left flipper and GI comes on. Backbox and playfield all light up. I don't see a Game Over or Tilt light lit up, but I'll have to check those bulbs/sockets to be sure. The "Freeze" is lit up on the bottom of the backbox "thermometer".

- Lock Relay is locked ON as it should be (I assume per other games)

- Pressing start/reset does nothing. Checked/cleaned it and made sure it's making contact when pressed.

- Both credit switches were disengaged, tried them manually, no result. There were 10 credits on the credit wheel, and I am manually able to add/subtract them. Note: Manually pressing the $0.25 cent relay in the cabinet will add 3 credits, so I know those are communicating.

- Playfield/flippers/etc. do nothing. Manually pressing score relays (1 point, 10 pt, etc.) in the head do not cause the scoring to advance.

- Relay (Unmarked) in the front right-hand side of the cabinet, next to the tilt and power "kill" switches, when manually activated will do the following: Relay Bank under playfield fires/resets. Drop target on playfield resets to "up" position. Score motor turns and stops.

- "Coin Relay" in the back left of the cabinet does the same as the Unmarked relay mentioned above.

- Relay (Umarked #2) next to Coin Relay, second back from left back corner, Resets the score reels, turns the score motor, and resets drop target.

- The "thermometer" mechanism appears to be locked/frozen. I cannot manually adjust it by activating the coils. Quick inspections seems to indicate a cleaning will likely resolve this issue. It's not trying to activate or do anything, so I do not believe it's related to the above issue.

That's what I've got so far. Thoughts? Questions?

Thanks in advance for the assistance, as always

#33 2 years ago

Adding a few pics to supplement my post above. Unmarked relay 1 & 2, as well as the Coin Relay. Plus a shot of the playfield assembled (aside from the new pop bumper caps I need and such)

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#34 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Adding a few pics to supplement my post above.

you may want to remove the screw bit layin on the switches in the top pic...

#35 2 years ago

Whoops, yea good point. I found two other drill bits and a LOT of other screws/junk in the cabinet. Missed that one, I'll get that outta there, thanks. That's the Lock Relay.

#36 2 years ago

There are two Z-35-4200 relays in Heat Wave. The one at the back left is the Coin Relay as you have indicated. The one at the front of the machine is the Replay Relay. Careful with these relays, they run on line voltage!
The unmarked Z-27-1000 is the Reset Relay.

There is a switch on the replay stepper unit (credit wheel) that should be open only at zero credits. Make sure that switch is otherwise closed, this indicates that there are credits on the machine.

#37 2 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

There are two Z-35-4200 relays in Heat Wave. The one at the back left is the Coin Relay as you have indicated. The one at the front of the machine is the Replay Relay. Careful with these relays, they run on line voltage!
The unmarked Z-27-1000 is the Reset Relay.
There is a switch on the replay stepper unit (credit wheel) that should be open only at zero credits. Make sure that switch is otherwise closed, this indicates that there are credits on the machine.

Great, thanks Dr, I'll label the relays accordingly, and I'll check the credit wheel. I was looking over the Start-Up sequence for Williams listed on pinrepair.com , looks more modern than the '64 Heat Wave, as it has steps/relays mine does not listed. I'm assuming it's similar though. I'll start with the credit unit switches and report back.

#38 2 years ago

Make sure you have the schematic on order, you'll be needing it.

I do have a reproduction of the Coin Relay label drawn in SVG if you want it from the original label on my machine (plus a variety of other labels).

#39 2 years ago

Hi Dr - Yep, I'll be ordering one from PBR, along with some new pop bumper caps and other parts. I did find most of it available here on various other Heat Wave posts. I'd say I have about 85-90% of it in scanned form via other posts.

Just finished looking over some stuff. Somehow I've changed things, not sure what I did, but here's a breakdown:

- First thing I did was check the Replay (Credit) Unit in the head. There are two switches that are both closed when there are credits on the machine. The top switch opens if there are zero credits. I made sure both are closed when there are credits applied to the unit. There is a "vertical" switch, shown in the pictures attached here. It appears to be bent so that it is Always OPEN. It appears that it is supposed close when the top coil fires.

- I decided to perform a quick test that I picked up from Rolf in another repair thread. I was curious what would happen if I jumpered power to a playfield object for testing. I ran a jumper from the 24V Black wire on the associated Fuse to the Black terminal on the left kicker. I ran another jumper from the other side of the circuit (Yellow) to the Red wire of the same kicker. Doing so energized the playfield (flippers worked, kicker worked, some scoring occurred and score wheels registered points. Bells chimed. I turned everything off and removed the jumpers.

- When I turned the game back on and pressed the left flipper, the GI came on, but ONLY if I held the flipper button down. If I press it and let go, previously the Lock Relay would engage and stay pulled, and GI would remain on. This no longer happens. Also, the Tilt relay on the relay bank under the playfield is "buzzing" on when I press the flipper button. If I release the flipper button, the GI goes off and Tilt relay releases. If I hold the button down, the GI is on, but the Tilt relay is stuck on while I hold the flipper button. It seems like the machine is stuck in Tilt.

- Strangely, now the Start/Replay button works somewhat. If I press it, the score will reset (along with targets and relay bank under the playfield, score motor turns, among other things). Credit Unit will go down one credit as well. However, the Tilt relay is buzzing during that process, and having issues as noted above, so the GI immediately goes off as soon as the Start process completes.

I checked the Tilt relay on the bottom of the cabinet, as well as the one on the playfield. The Anti-cheat switch on the door is closed. The Tilt mechanisms on the side of the cabinet appear to have been disconnected (Tilt bob is removed and there is no ball in the Tilt channel. See pic for image of that area.

Any thoughts on why the Tilt seems to be having issues suddenly?

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#40 2 years ago

Here is all the Bottom Board Relay info you need.

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#41 2 years ago

Cool, thanks for the pics! Nice and clean in there... I'm looking forward to getting this one cleaned up.

Thoughts on the weird stuck-tilt issue described above? Thanks

#42 2 years ago

Hi MaxAsh
If the pin would be a "Beat the Clock" ... see JPG-1: "IF (if) the LOCK-Relay does NOT pull: TILT-Relay does pull.

See bottom of JPG-2, 24 VAC-Side: As through magnetism (then) 24VAC is produced: LOCK-Relay pulls and stays pulling --- IF (if) the Knock-off-Switch IS CLOSED. The Knock-off-Switch You can see in post-40, to the right of text "Replay Relay" - and in post-33 (above not-mounted TILT-Switch) -Question: IS THE KNOCK-OFF-Switch CLOSED (as should) ? Greetings Rolf

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#43 2 years ago

Just curious, what condition is the drop target in, can you post a pic of that?

#44 2 years ago

Tilt/Slam Switches.

1st pic: Right side Tilt Switch (Bottom Motor Board)- Open
Left Side Slam Switch next to Tilt Switch (unlabeled) - Closed

2nd Pic: Under Playfield Tilt Switch - Open

3rd Pic: Tilt Ball Switch (ball missing on mine) - Open
Tilt Bob - (Bob not touching sides) - Open

4th Pic: Coin Door Slam Switch - Closed

Notes: There is no slam or tilt switch in the back of the Head. All Tilt Switches are Open and all Slam Switches are Closed. Check to make sure wires are hooked up right and nothing is interfering with the switches. All switches shown is all the game came equipped with.

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#45 2 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Just curious, what condition is the drop target in, can you post a pic of that?

Strangely, I don't have any pics of it. I'll grab one when I have a chance and post it.

EM-PINMAN - Thanks, that confirms what I found in my Heat Wave. All of the ones that should be open or closed are correct, so something else must be causing the new issue. Something in line with the Tilt relay is causing it to fire as soon as I apply power (by pressing the left flipper button), and whatever the issue is also prevents the Lock Relay from triggering and holding. Pressing the left flipper only does two things: Light up the GI and make the Tilt Relay pull, and it only does those things while the flipper button is being pressed. Everything goes dead as soon as I release it.

Rolf - attached is the portion of the schematic you were referring to for my pin

Unfortunately, the only portion of the schematic I do not have a good image of is the Tilt Relay portion. However, based on your post, and the blurry image I have of that section, I believe it is the same as the one you mentioned. "Knock-off switch", I assume is the switch that is on the bottom of the cabinet, always closed. When it is opened, power is cut to the entire pin. In EM-PINMAN's last post, it's the unlabeled switch in his first image, next to the Tilt Switch. Correct?

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#46 2 years ago

Here is how to reset your machine to a known state.
With the power OFF, plunge the relay bank reset solenoid (110V -- do this with power OFF). This resets all relays on the bank.
Now power ON and turn on the lights with the left flipper. The balls should release from the trough because the machine appears to have reset and is ready to start a game. The LOCK relay should energize and stay on.
Plunge the balls; as soon as you score points the GAME relay trips.
Once all balls have drained the game is over and the GAME OVER and TILT relay trip.

So in a game over state the following relays should be tripped:
- GAME
- GAME OVER
- TILT

On the backglass GAME OVER should be lit.

Try this sequence and report back.

#47 2 years ago

Hi Dr - I think I tried that, and the tilt immediately pulls itself when I press the left flipper button. But I will double-check before I state that as a fact. I'll report back as soon as I test it out. Thanks

I'll hopefully have a chance to check it in the morning. If not, I will be away a couple of days, so I'll update this thread as soon as I can either way.

#48 2 years ago

Hi MaxAsh
If the pin would be a "Beat the Clock" ... see JPG-1: "IF (if) the LOCK-Relay does NOT pull: TILT-Relay does pull.
See bottom of JPG-2, 24 VAC-Side: As through magnetism (then) 24VAC is produced: LOCK-Relay pulls and stays pulling --- IF (if) the Knock-off-Switch IS CLOSED. The Knock-off-Switch You can see in post-40, to the right of text "Replay Relay" - and in post-33 (above not-mounted TILT-Switch) -Question: IS THE KNOCK-OFF-Switch CLOSED (as should) ? Greetings Rolf

Hi MaxAsh +
I am not familiar with ONE-Player-Pins - even worse: The oldfashioned "really 5 balls and the window on the apron to look and count the balls" - well, I have my Gottlieb "Ice Revue" and I am glad it runs.

I believe You have TWO faults at the same time and a third rather simple problem:
Thanks for the snippet of schematics (post-45) - on the left, +/- rather up the switches: "Left-Flipper Button Sw.", "Switch on Reset-Relay", "two Switches on Lock-Relay", "hard to read Switch", "Switch on Coin-Relay" --- I looked-up in the ipdb-schematics "Palooka", "Soccer", "San Francisco", (my) "Shangri La" - I believe You can write at "hard to read Switch": 25 Cent Relay (Switch).

Fault-A is (post-39): The Lock-Relay ONLY pulls at the time You press the left Flipper-Button - it does (no longer) pull-in and stay pulling when You let go on the left Flipper-Button.

Fault-B is (post-39): As long as You feed 110 VAC (and therefore magnetism and so 24VAC) - the Tilt-Relay is buzzing. You mentioned in post-39: Tilt-Relay is mounted in the "Bank of Relays, Bank is mounted under the playfield".
dr_nybble (post-46) writes about: "The pin beeing in state 'Game-Over' has the 'Game-Over-Relay' latched and also has the 'Tilt-Relay' latched". In the beginning of his post-46 he advices "manually 'move, reset' the Relay-Bank - then the relays in that bank trip and so reset".
I mentioned "me beeing not familiar with this type of pins" - from post-46 I take: When pressing the left Flipper-Button: The Tilt-Relay is entitled to move*** - Tilt-Relay MUST move***.

Unfortunately (post-45) the portion "Tilt-Relay wiring" is "hard to / not to" read in Your schematics.
Also unfortunately: Williams used several ways of having a Tilt-Relay - Version-A: A simple standalone Relay (one coil) on "Beat the Clock and Soccer", Version-B: A INTERLOCK-Type (two coils) standalone relay on "San Francisco and Palooka", Version-C: An relay in the "Bank of relays, under the playfield" on "Heat Wave (?) and Shangri La".
Great, "Shangri La" has Version-C --- BUT "Shangri La" is a rather modern FOUR-Player-Pin - and my "Shangri La" does NOT move*** the Tilt-Relay when I press the left flipper Button-Switch. So "Shangri La" IS DIFFERENT to "dr_nybble, post-45": "Pressing the left flipper-Button makes the Tilt-Relay move***".
I look-up in the (ipdb) schematics of my Shangri La - at page-5, F-20 I see a "Switch mounted on the Tilt-Relay" - a Switch that opens when the Tilt-Relay is moved***.

Fault-B: I assume this "Switch mounted on the Tilt-Relay" does NOT open when the Tilt-Relay is moved*** --- want to check my theory ?

Fault-A: To work on "Fault-A" You should have solved "Fault-B" - it is awful when You have the (Fault-B) Tilt-Relay buzzing. A rude way to solve Fault-B is: You say "I am friendly to my Heat Wave - I do not bang Tilts - therefore I do NOT need the Tilt-Relay to move*** - so I well can unsolder (for now) one wire to "Coil-on Tilt-Relay" - and this unsoldering hinders the Tilt-Relay to (move and) buzz.
I assume: Fault-A happens because the wiring (Your snippet of schematics, post-45) on Lock-Relay is no good - check the wiring of the Lock-Relay - especially to "Knock-Off Switch, first JPG in post-44, unlabeled" AND check this switch - You well can manipulate this switch to be permanently-closed by wrapping a piece of blank wire around the two solder-lugs on that "Knock-Off- / Tilt-Switch" (((You say "I am friendly to my Heat Wave - I do not bang Tilts - therefore I do NOT need this Switch to open))).

Please buy a schematics --- looking up in several ipdb-schematics / guessing instead of looking-up: Not very pleasing.

Move***: I am german speaking - maybe I HAVE a fault in my understanding of the english terminology, to me "Relays of the different versions" do:
Version-A: Relay pulls and sometimes later let go --- maybe it pulls-in (means pulls and stays pulling) and sometimes later releases / let go.
Version-B: Relay trips - stable state - Relay latches - stable state. To me: When the armature with the Nylon-Ladder with the hooked-in Switchblades moves: The Relay does latch.
Version-C: A Relay trips - tripping is the only thing such a relay can do --- when the whole Bank is resetted: This relay (and all others in the Bank), Relay is resetted. Some switchblades are below a rod - some switchblades are above the rod. The rod is mounted on the armature on the relay - when the relay trips: the rod is moved, when the Bank is resetted: rod is moved.
I look at the Relay-Bank in my Shangri La - I am tempted to say "one relay moves means the relay LATCHES" (((and later the Bank and therefore the relay is resetted))).

So I do have a problem with the terms to use - I want to use the "proper terms" - I guess we agree on "relay will be resetted as the whole Bank is resetted", I believe to remember: Relay in the Bank does trip - well, my question is: Does a relay (in a Bank) LATCH or does it TRIP ??? --- Please clarify / enlighten me.

About "Tilt-Switch / Kick-Off-Switch" - here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-use-the-kick-off-switch-to-shut-their-50s60s-games-off is a discussion on "using this switch to toggle-off the pin as the very-old pins do not have an 110VAC main power toggle switch". Funny, ipdb mentions to "Jolly Roger, see Notes": http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1314 "FIRST 4-Player-Pin WITH the 110 VAC main power switch".
Greetings Rolf

P.S.: Sometimes I an rude to a pin - I say "I would like to unsolder a wire from a lug (on a coil or rather) on a Switch --- the place is "hard to get at", especially "how in the world can I solder-on-again ???". So I am rude - I take a scissors and I CUT the wire (2 to 3 inches away from where I would like to unsolder) - I take a cigarette lighter and burn away a bit of the insulation (the original color / insulation still is at the short stub on the solder-point, original color is still clearly visible). I then clamp-on the male and female part of a plug on the two endings - I can connect and I can disconnect. These plugs I can buy in K-Mart and such stores, automotive departement, car-electrics - to CLAMP-ON with a plier --- MUCH BETTER than "Banana type" Plugs. And when I have finished my work: I happily make a permanent connection by plugging-in and let the plug in the pin.

P.P.S.: The "move***, TRIP, LATCH" stuff is important to me - please enlighten me.

#49 2 years ago

Hi Rolf, I think I had the terms trip/latch backwards and have adjusted it.

#50 2 years ago

Thank you both - I will need to work on this early next week, as I will be away for a few days and unable to perform additional tests. I promise to reply back to the thread as soon as I return and am able to get working on it again. Back soon, thank you!

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