If the pin would be a "Beat the Clock" ... see JPG-1: "IF (if) the LOCK-Relay does NOT pull: TILT-Relay does pull.
See bottom of JPG-2, 24 VAC-Side: As through magnetism (then) 24VAC is produced: LOCK-Relay pulls and stays pulling --- IF (if) the Knock-off-Switch IS CLOSED. The Knock-off-Switch You can see in post-40, to the right of text "Replay Relay" - and in post-33 (above not-mounted TILT-Switch) -Question: IS THE KNOCK-OFF-Switch CLOSED (as should) ? Greetings Rolf
Hi MaxAsh +
I am not familiar with ONE-Player-Pins - even worse: The oldfashioned "really 5 balls and the window on the apron to look and count the balls" - well, I have my Gottlieb "Ice Revue" and I am glad it runs.
I believe You have TWO faults at the same time and a third rather simple problem:
Thanks for the snippet of schematics (post-45) - on the left, +/- rather up the switches: "Left-Flipper Button Sw.", "Switch on Reset-Relay", "two Switches on Lock-Relay", "hard to read Switch", "Switch on Coin-Relay" --- I looked-up in the ipdb-schematics "Palooka", "Soccer", "San Francisco", (my) "Shangri La" - I believe You can write at "hard to read Switch": 25 Cent Relay (Switch).
Fault-A is (post-39): The Lock-Relay ONLY pulls at the time You press the left Flipper-Button - it does (no longer) pull-in and stay pulling when You let go on the left Flipper-Button.
Fault-B is (post-39): As long as You feed 110 VAC (and therefore magnetism and so 24VAC) - the Tilt-Relay is buzzing. You mentioned in post-39: Tilt-Relay is mounted in the "Bank of Relays, Bank is mounted under the playfield".
dr_nybble (post-46) writes about: "The pin beeing in state 'Game-Over' has the 'Game-Over-Relay' latched and also has the 'Tilt-Relay' latched". In the beginning of his post-46 he advices "manually 'move, reset' the Relay-Bank - then the relays in that bank trip and so reset".
I mentioned "me beeing not familiar with this type of pins" - from post-46 I take: When pressing the left Flipper-Button: The Tilt-Relay is entitled to move*** - Tilt-Relay MUST move***.
Unfortunately (post-45) the portion "Tilt-Relay wiring" is "hard to / not to" read in Your schematics.
Also unfortunately: Williams used several ways of having a Tilt-Relay - Version-A: A simple standalone Relay (one coil) on "Beat the Clock and Soccer", Version-B: A INTERLOCK-Type (two coils) standalone relay on "San Francisco and Palooka", Version-C: An relay in the "Bank of relays, under the playfield" on "Heat Wave (?) and Shangri La".
Great, "Shangri La" has Version-C --- BUT "Shangri La" is a rather modern FOUR-Player-Pin - and my "Shangri La" does NOT move*** the Tilt-Relay when I press the left flipper Button-Switch. So "Shangri La" IS DIFFERENT to "dr_nybble, post-45": "Pressing the left flipper-Button makes the Tilt-Relay move***".
I look-up in the (ipdb) schematics of my Shangri La - at page-5, F-20 I see a "Switch mounted on the Tilt-Relay" - a Switch that opens when the Tilt-Relay is moved***.
Fault-B: I assume this "Switch mounted on the Tilt-Relay" does NOT open when the Tilt-Relay is moved*** --- want to check my theory ?
Fault-A: To work on "Fault-A" You should have solved "Fault-B" - it is awful when You have the (Fault-B) Tilt-Relay buzzing. A rude way to solve Fault-B is: You say "I am friendly to my Heat Wave - I do not bang Tilts - therefore I do NOT need the Tilt-Relay to move*** - so I well can unsolder (for now) one wire to "Coil-on Tilt-Relay" - and this unsoldering hinders the Tilt-Relay to (move and) buzz.
I assume: Fault-A happens because the wiring (Your snippet of schematics, post-45) on Lock-Relay is no good - check the wiring of the Lock-Relay - especially to "Knock-Off Switch, first JPG in post-44, unlabeled" AND check this switch - You well can manipulate this switch to be permanently-closed by wrapping a piece of blank wire around the two solder-lugs on that "Knock-Off- / Tilt-Switch" (((You say "I am friendly to my Heat Wave - I do not bang Tilts - therefore I do NOT need this Switch to open))).
Please buy a schematics --- looking up in several ipdb-schematics / guessing instead of looking-up: Not very pleasing.
Move***: I am german speaking - maybe I HAVE a fault in my understanding of the english terminology, to me "Relays of the different versions" do:
Version-A: Relay pulls and sometimes later let go --- maybe it pulls-in (means pulls and stays pulling) and sometimes later releases / let go.
Version-B: Relay trips - stable state - Relay latches - stable state. To me: When the armature with the Nylon-Ladder with the hooked-in Switchblades moves: The Relay does latch.
Version-C: A Relay trips - tripping is the only thing such a relay can do --- when the whole Bank is resetted: This relay (and all others in the Bank), Relay is resetted. Some switchblades are below a rod - some switchblades are above the rod. The rod is mounted on the armature on the relay - when the relay trips: the rod is moved, when the Bank is resetted: rod is moved.
I look at the Relay-Bank in my Shangri La - I am tempted to say "one relay moves means the relay LATCHES" (((and later the Bank and therefore the relay is resetted))).
So I do have a problem with the terms to use - I want to use the "proper terms" - I guess we agree on "relay will be resetted as the whole Bank is resetted", I believe to remember: Relay in the Bank does trip - well, my question is: Does a relay (in a Bank) LATCH or does it TRIP ??? --- Please clarify / enlighten me.
About "Tilt-Switch / Kick-Off-Switch" - here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-use-the-kick-off-switch-to-shut-their-50s60s-games-off is a discussion on "using this switch to toggle-off the pin as the very-old pins do not have an 110VAC main power toggle switch". Funny, ipdb mentions to "Jolly Roger, see Notes": http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1314 "FIRST 4-Player-Pin WITH the 110 VAC main power switch".
P.S.: Sometimes I an rude to a pin - I say "I would like to unsolder a wire from a lug (on a coil or rather) on a Switch --- the place is "hard to get at", especially "how in the world can I solder-on-again ???". So I am rude - I take a scissors and I CUT the wire (2 to 3 inches away from where I would like to unsolder) - I take a cigarette lighter and burn away a bit of the insulation (the original color / insulation still is at the short stub on the solder-point, original color is still clearly visible). I then clamp-on the male and female part of a plug on the two endings - I can connect and I can disconnect. These plugs I can buy in K-Mart and such stores, automotive departement, car-electrics - to CLAMP-ON with a plier --- MUCH BETTER than "Banana type" Plugs. And when I have finished my work: I happily make a permanent connection by plugging-in and let the plug in the pin.
P.P.S.: The "move***, TRIP, LATCH" stuff is important to me - please enlighten me.