(Topic ID: 297159)

Williams Gulfstream - Re-establish Knocker

By flb_gulfstream

8 days ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by flb_gulfstream
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 8 days ago

My Williams Gulfstream was set up for Free Play when I got it and it has all of the coin mechanisms removed from the coin door and all of the wiring is cut.

I just added a Williams Klondike to my "collection" and noticed the knocker feature whenever I get an add-a-ball reward. I remember that sound from my days hanging out in the local bowling alley playing pinball machines. I didn't notice that I missed that sound until I heard it again. I was wondering how to get it back on my Gulfstream. The Klondike has one functioning coin relay still mounted to the door so I can't use that as a guide for my Gulfstream.

I tested the knocker coil and it is fine. I just need help in determining if I can splice a couple of wires together on the back of the coin door to get the circuit working again. I'm apprehensive on messing with the wiring on my own. In getting that Klondike running like it should, I made it a big wooden box with lights for a period of time. My Gulfstream plays fine so part of me is saying leave well enough alone.

My machine is set up for add-a-ball. Match is set to off.

Any help would be appreciated.

#2 8 days ago
Quoted from flb_gulfstream:

if I can splice a couple of wires together on the back of the coin door to get the circuit working again

Try connecting the Green&Orange wire to the Yellow&Red wire that originally connected to the 25 cent coin switch.

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#3 8 days ago

Williams knockers of this era are so shitty I don't usually bother getting them working, and for some reason they are almost ALWAYS fried or just don't work. I think the credit wheel switch or the coin switch tended to get stuck on these and cook the coil.

Regardless, you can live without the quiet, dull thud that a Williams 70s knocker provides.

I'm gonna vote for leave well enough alone.

#4 7 days ago

I hear you, CrazyLevi ...

I connected the Green&Orange wire to the Yellow&Red wire as HowardR suggested but that didn't bring back the knocker. I noticed that the 25 cent relay did not pull in. I was expecting the 25 cent relay to pull in.

Maybe there is more to consider with my inherited wiring job as seen below:

IMG_1949 (resized).jpg

I'm not sure what color those three that are joined together are. Those are soldered together. The two yellow wires were just twisted together under electrical tape so I added that beige wire nut. And you can see the Green&Orange wire to the Yellow&Red wire connection with the orange wire nut.

On the schematic it shows an Anti-cheat switch. Where is that? I see a Kickoff Switch on my cabinet relay board but nothing labeled Anti-cheat switch.

If I can't get this restored, should I disconnect the wires I just joined?

Thanks again.

#5 7 days ago

I looked at the wiring closer. You can see I had a choice of Yellow&Red wires but it looks like they are all tied together anyway.

IMG_1951 markup (resized).jpg

#6 7 days ago

Did you test the coil itself? Quick and easy - jump it to a working coil, fire the coil and see if the knocker works.

#7 7 days ago

Yes, I checked the coil and it is good.

#8 7 days ago
Quoted from flb_gulfstream:

if I can splice a couple of wires together on the back of the coin door to get the circuit working again

Quoted from HowardR:

Try connecting the Green&Orange wire to the Yellow&Red wire that originally connected to the 25 cent coin switch.

Quoted from flb_gulfstream:

I connected the Green&Orange wire to the Yellow&Red wire as HowardR suggested but that didn't bring back the knocker.

Inspect and diagnose the circuit I highlighted in post
with Alligator clip jumper wires

Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

#9 7 days ago

It won’t pull in the relay. But you’re right, there is probably also an ‘anti-slam’ switch (normally closed) that existed on the door—if that is missing you’ll need to find those two wires, too.

This is what it would have looked like. According to Howard’s schematic and my Klondike (pictured) connect the yellow-red wires.

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#10 7 days ago

AndrewP, your Klondike switch looks to be in almost the same condition as the switch on my Klondike!! See below:
IMG_1957 (resized).jpg

In looking at my labeled photo above and the photos of the Klondike anti-slam switch, the "3 ea Yellow&Red" wires and the two that are maybe tan or yellow that are spliced with the beige wire nut, look like the wires that could have been originally on the coin door anti-slam switch. The schematic shows Yellow on one side of the Anti-cheat switch and Yellow&Red on the other so that seems to agree. Maybe I need to jumper those together along with keeping the Green&Orange wire connected to the Yellow&Red wire and see what happens.

If that doesn't work, I will go through the plan that HowardR posted above. HowardR has a very good track record in solving my problems with my Gulfstream and my Klondike. Thanks, HowardR.

Thanks, everyone. I will check back later.

#11 7 days ago

if you're having trouble telling the wire colors, an easy solution is disconnect the O-BLU-1 wire on the coin relay and connect that switch blade to the yellow wire directly below it.

if the manual is right (there's always a chance) ... it should be easy. You can test with a jumper on the coin relay switches before disconnecting the O-BLU wire. Try and verify the wire colors on the coin relay switch. Since it's a single pole switch, it doesn't matter if the wires are swapped on the blades.

disconnecting the O-BLU wire is kinda optional, but leaving it there would disable the anti-cheat switch if the 25c coin switch wires howard indicated are tied together.

leaving the coin relay switch in the circuit prevents knocks when the game is resetting. If it does knock on reset. you jumped yellow to the wrong wire on the coin relay switch.

if you do go with this approach, recommend using an obvious non-factory wire to jumper the coin relay switch blades so the next guy can see the change easily. An operator hack woulda just pulled back the insulation on the O-BLU wire and soldered it to the yellow wire

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#12 7 days ago

And sometimes the wire insulation colors are more visible as the wire goes inside the wire bundles.

#13 7 days ago

The quickest experiment was to join the three Yellow&Red wires that were soldered together just inside the door to the two Yellow (or tan) wires that I joined with the beige wire nut. By the way, those wires ended up being Yellow when I looked deeper into the wire bundle. I felt more confident that those Yellow wires were originally on one side of the anti-cheat switch mounted on the coin door and the three Yellow&Red wires were on the other. By connecting them with a jumper, I was basically duplicating the closed anti-cheat circuit so I didn't feel there was a risk of hurting anything.

After installing the jumper between the two sets of wires (three Yellow&Red to the two Yellow), the knocker is now working!

Here's the final wiring. The red wire nut is basically the connection that the original anti-cheat switch made. I will probably label that for future reference if someone tries to use the schematic. The orange wire nut is the Green&Orange to Yellow&Red connection that HowardR originally suggested. It is ugly but I will try to figure out something to make it look a little better.
IMG_1958 (resized).jpg

Thanks everyone. If I end up deciding the knocker isn't as desirable as I think it is now, I can just unplug the two-prong Jones plug on the relay board.

#14 6 days ago

I once was accidentally without the knocker for a day (forgot to re-plug it in) and discovered what a notable impact it makes when adding a ball. For those that have it disconnected, I think you’re missing out. Glad to hear you’re up and running.

#15 6 days ago

I'm personally glad you went to the trouble to get the knocker working. I know that it's not really necessary anymore considering nearly all of these machines are set to free play, so winning a "free game" doesn't matter. But I still love hearing that knock when you achieve something in the game. Nice work.

#16 6 days ago

I didn't know what I was missing until I got the Klondike a couple of weeks ago and started playing it (after some struggles). The knocker worked on that machine and it did add a nice element to the game. Also, sometimes things happen so fast, the knocker "tells" me something good just happened.

After hearing the knocker on the Klondike, I decided I wanted to restore it on the Gulfstream. Also, as I said before, I remember that sound from my youth so it's a little nostalgic.

Thanks to very good pinsiders and their advice/suggestions, I have another "feature" on my Gulfstream working.

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