I had the same problem with a buddy's Grand Prix.

The stepper unit for the left bonus (under the apron) must be in the "zero" position to fire the kicker. If the fingers on the stepper can't reach the zero step, then loosen the board and rotate the PCB backwards, so that the last step for the fingers is the zero position. The other possible answer is that the zero rivet is missing - I've seen that too!

Check which relay is activating when the spinner is hit. Then check the corresponding score reel for player 1. There is an EOS switch in front of the coil. When the advancing arm pulls in, it should break the contacts on that switch, which releases the relay.

If the EOS switch doesn't open, the xxx point relay will not disengage. If the relay does engage and disengage, then find out what color the wire is on the stuck chime coil, and then find that same color wire in the relay switch bank. Make sure the contacts make and break cleanly.

I'm glad my tip helped with the left kicker.

Did you blow a fuse?

Also, check that the score motor is in the index position. If the score motor is not parked on the index position, the game will not function properly.

So, if I understand you correctly, you go to start up a game, the game begins the start-up sequence, and then gets stuck before kicking the ball into the shooting lane?

If this is the case, make sure the bonus steppers are at zero, make sure that the OUTHOLE RELAY is engaged, make sure that the contacts on the relay which need to be closed are indeed closed and making well. Make sure that there is indeed a pulse of power which gets to the OUTHOLE COIL contacts at the OUTHOLE RELAY from the Score Motor. Make sure you have a pulse at the OUTHOLE COIL, and that the coil is in fact good.

Okay, I see a couple of things in your pictures which look questionable...

First, on your stepper units (octopus things), gently tap the outer tip of the contact with your finger. If you hear a tapping noise made between contact and the rivet, you'll need to adjust the finger tighter to the rivet.

Next, in the last photo you posted, on the last tall switch stack, the top switch and the second from the top appear to be make-break switches. In the particular case, the contact with the white plastic part is supposed to be in contact with the contact above until the notch in the cam comes around, when that contact will drop down and make a momentary contact with the lower one.