Austin, TX
Quoted from Cali9dub:Does any place sell the plastic light isolator surrounds that are on the back box? I haven't found any.
These?
http://pinballswag.com/product.php?productid=4&cat=8&page=1
(Topic ID: 78097)
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Gorgar
Williams, 1979
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Sana'a
That jumper wire is normal, you see that a lot on -6 revision boards. -6A's were updated so it wasn't necessary. Really more of a thing for backward compatibility than anything else.
-Hans
Since you posted up a pic of your MPU here are some things i noticed at first glance
No battery corrosion. Good.
No hack job with a blow torch has tried to solder on it.... good
Came from the era where the solder side pins are cut very short. I hate this as it is hard to create a good reliable solder joint with leads cut so close to the PCB. Problamatic header pins may need replaced (interconnect, power input etc)
You have at least 4 scanbe IC sockets that are notorious for causing problems (they have terrible tension)
You need to get an off board battery. Since your 5101 ram is directly soldered in and still good. Just go with a remote solution. You would have to desolder the ram to you a NVRAM solution. Not practical.
If you are not well practiced at soldering, dont attempt replacing IC sockets and header pins. Send it off to someone if you are having trouble with your MPU board.
For a remote battery without soldering, there's this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RBM
I haven't tried it yet but seems straightforward enough.
We can see three scanbes, chances are the others are too. If it were me working on it I would go ahead and replace all of the pin headers while I'm replacing sockets.
Yes, the pins are supposed to be missing from the headers, that's how they are keyed to prevent plugging in the wrong plug.
I think I'm fairly good at soldering (did some LED installs on some technics turntables I have). Those scanbe pins look pretty damn close to each other. Might be a white knuckle ride for me on those...what problems do those holders cause? Would a Rottendog combo board be a good route and keep this as a backup ??
Your board is in good shape. IMO no reason to drop 300 bucks on a replacement, but if you're not completely comfortable replacing the sockets then definitely send it out.
Thanks Vid! I specialize in WMS/Bally/Stern from this era and do board work every day.
I can rebuild your MPU and driver board for $100 (i prefer to do both at the same time). Power board for $40, sound speech for $50. Includes return ship inside the USA.
Complete bulletproofed rebuilds. All new header pins, IC sockets, electrolytic caps, etc. 1 year warranty. I am backed up about 3 weeks right now on turn around time.
Message me here for more info.
Well sent my boards off to barakandi today. I was too chicken to try and do everything. Hopefully everything goes well. In the meantime I'm stripping everything out of the cabinet to get ready for paint. (The original paint job has been covered up). Any suggestions on what to clean the metal shutes by the ball eject area? They aren't chrome and don't appear to be stainless. Not sure what they are, but they are stained with ancient fingerprints.
Quoted from barakandl:Thanks Vid! I specialize in WMS/Bally/Stern from this era and do board work every day.
I can rebuild your MPU and driver board for $100 (i prefer to do both at the same time). Power board for $40, sound speech for $50. Includes return ship inside the USA.
Complete bulletproofed rebuilds. All new header pins, IC sockets, electrolytic caps, etc. 1 year warranty. I am backed up about 3 weeks right now on turn around time.
Message me here for more info.
Sounds like a good deal. I couldn't even get someone local to come out and repair mine for that price.
1 week later
Here are the boards.
Sound board had a bad 6821 PIA. I noticed one or maybe more sound effects not playing correctly. I determined it was the PIA because sound effects where missing with diag button on sound board and the 4050 buffers on the input triggers all where working correctly. Replaced PIA and sound was good. Also changed ROM and CPU IC socket, all caps, and connector pins. Tested board volume very loud for about an hour and burn in test for about 6 hours in attract mode. Still need to clean off the flux for the PIA replacement as i did that after the initial cleaning.
20140209_215559-421.jpg
20140209_215617-718.jpg
Speech board had at least one bad PROM. I replaced all three with 2532 EPROMs and new IC sockets. Buzzed out every pin off the ribbon cable, all good. Mixer pot was missing the adjuster dial so i replaced with a trim pot. Not ideal replacement, but works fine in this setup as you still get a good adjustable mixing range. Tested with sound board at the same time.
20140209_215639.jpg
20140209_215655.jpg
MPU needed basic rebuild. Scanbe IC sockets had zero tension and pinky finger could remove them. All three ROM, one RAM and CPU IC socket replaced. Lithium battery. All new header pins. Burn in tested overnight in attract mode. Played numerous game with no issues. Scrubbed clean front and back. Turned out very nice looking..
20140209_215847.jpg
20140209_215903.jpg
Driver board coming tomorrow.
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