Its the game number Gorgar was Williams model number 496.

does the game play?

Your batteries are dead or you have a bad 5101 ram.

Open the coin door and flip the power switch a few times rapidly. If it comes up in attract mode your batteries are dead or need a new holder(REMOTE!)

If it refuses to go into attract mode with the power switch trick, than you have a 95% chance of a bad 5101 ram. 5% chance of other memory protect issues.

With the coin door open, quickly flip the power switch ON-OFF-ON.

If the game starts up, you have dead batteries, or corrosion around the battery holder.

You don't need batteries or the manual switch to be depressed.

Just, with the coin door open, quickly flip the power switch ON-OFF-ON.

It boots the CPU without any batteries on board.

It is really common for batteries to die then leak, destroying the battery holder or even the circuit board traces.

So that switch trick is a way to get the game up quickly.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

If you bought it and no batteries (or the orig carbon batteries) were installed, that is a good sign.

Enjoy getting your feet wet working on games. I think it can be lots of fun. You picked a great title to get started!

Good.

Now coin up the game and hit the start button.

Forgive me if you already tried this, but did you credit up? It is probably not set for free play. Great game, btw!

Edit: Vid beat me to the post by 4 sec!

That's how I do.

lol

Check the solenoid fuse, from memory it's 2.5A. Pull it and check it with your meter - don't check it in circuit.

Rebuild 40 pin connector:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Dub,

Your 2.5amp slow blow fuse on the power board is likely blown. It handles all solenoids except the flippers.

You've already confirmed that the sounds are working from the soundboard through to the speaker. That's a big chunk of the work to fix it eliminated. It more or less means the problem is likely on the driver board, or the connection between the driver board and sound board.

EDIT- Or like barakandl said, the fuse that controls all those solenoids.

If it works at the source, but not at the destination, there's a problem between the two points. I'll let someone more experienced than me continue that train of thought, but if you take it slow and go off of what you know (make sure you know what you know, easier said than done) it's the systematic elimination of points of failure that'll eventually get you to the answer.

I don't think it has any sounds during attract mode so you may be pretty close. Check that fuse as suggested, that may be all that's going (assuming that fuse doesn't keep blowing).

Yes, that saves you a lot of work bulletproofing the old power supply.

Try wiggling 2J9 (bottom left plug on the driver board) and see if that affects your sounds at all. Lots of times the headers suck and need to be replaced or at the absolute minimum resoldered.

But really all these steps are kind of a waste of time until you rework the driver board as in vid's guide.

All my solenoids went at one time as well....it was indeed the 2.5amp slow blow fuse. Replaced it and voila...back in action! Yes....GORGAR has no sound in attract mode...you are good there.

Congrats on your fix.

Can be bad bridge rectifier on the sound board.

When the fuses blow on this sound board it is almost always the bridge rectifier shorting. Do you have a DMM with diode test? I would check the bridge rectifier diodes, watch a youtube video if you need help.

If this bridge is bad it will need to be replaced. If the bridge isnt bad check the connectors for problems. If they look good measure the AC input voltage on the two outside pins and across middle to outside. Also maybe a filter cap across the 5v rail went short, so check the caps (electrolytic ones probably need replaced if they are factory). Lastly i would suspect the 7805 voltage regulator.

Well WMS really f'd up on there male header pins during the Gorgar era. On the solder side the pins are cut so damn short, it is really hard to get a reliable solder joint.

Mandatory to replace i would consider the power input ones on the MPU and driver board. The rest i would replace as needed. Every single connector solder joint will probably need checked / resoldered. The interconnect should be repalced as well. GPE carries them.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/serie-2400-3-96mm/housing-connector-3-96mm-9-pins.html
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/serie-2400-3-96mm/wafer-connector-3-96mm-9-pins.html

With Gorgar, you probably still have crimp pin style wire connectors, so they tend to be more reliable than the later IDC style. The wire itself usually doesn't need to be replaced, just the connectors from time to time.

-Hans

Replace the male pins with square ones, they have more surface area.

Replace the female contacts with Trifurcon style crimp connectors. These make contact on 3 sides - again much more surface area.

........and the most important thing - DO NOT forget the little plastic keying plugs that keep you from putting on the wrong connectors!

Space mission is an EM I believe, you would have to use the wiring from your Gorgar with it, but they are the same coin doors.

Cut them from the square plastic cans that drink mix packets come in.