I apologize for the double post, but after putting under Getaway club, thought I should add to tech forum.

I've had the Mezel ignition switch on my pin for a few months, but today it stopped working. The light still illuminates but it will not start a game. Also, in the switch test it shows as open and will not close. Unfortunately, I cannot find what I did with the original start button (probably threw it away) any ideas? Also, I have fully cycled power and unplugged/plugged both connectors on the switch.

Also, just tried to "jumpstart" by manually touching two starter wires but nothing happens (I am assuming this would close the circuit). Just determined that plumb bob tilt is not closing either (they share a Green/brown wire).

Everything else appears to be working normally via test modes.

I have continuity on green/brown wire from the start connector to both J6 connectors and J1 connector and plumb bob on A-14689 board (coin door interface). Also have continuity from start connector to backbox connector J212.

I also have continuity on white/orange wire from start connector to J6 connector and to J212.

Yes, 3 balls. Left, center, and right trough show closed. Whenever I remove each of the balls then corresponding trough switch opens. Returned all the balls and machine injects them into trough, thus closing 3 switches again.

So at J212 remove the connector and short the 2 pins where green/brown and white/orange connect?

I did this (pins 1 and 7), and nothing happens.

Also did 1 and 8 (plumb bob) and nothing happens in switch test.

Tested front door switch on that same J212 and it works.

No, battery is external sitting on floor of backbox, and batteries are clean. Also, tested front door switch on J212 successfully.

Trying to think. I did just replace 3 supercharger optos yesterday, but thought I played since then (maybe I just tested). I'm now wondering if there could be a relationship between new optos and start issue. The optos all test correctly.

Well, I removed CPU board and with visual inspection everything looks good. I have not removed batteries or ROM chip yet, but not sure what difference that would make.

I also redid my 3 new optos but that changed nothing. I believe it is coincidence but the 3rd opto, black LED has the same two wire colors as the start button. These run to the controller board on the underside of the table. Also, all 3 optos test perfectly.

Does anyone have any additional ideas/direction?

I replaced 1 pair of optos (#3) because it was failing switch test and the clear opto on #2 because that was the only one I had not replaced out of the 6 since I bought the machine several months ago (I figured all the others had gone bad, so I might as well do the last one now).

This may just be coincidental, as all the optos test good now but even manually shorting the appropriate pins on J212 of the MPU will not register the start or tilt switches being closed (I can however jumper the pins and trigger the coin door switch).

New info, on a suggestion in the Getaway thread, user predicted that my 4 freeway switches would not be working either and he is correct. Thinks it might be a bad U20, but I don't know what/where that is and am awaiting his response. Thoughts?

Okay, U20 is a ULN2803A which appears to control pin 1 on J212 (among other things). Seems like I may need to replace this chip first, or at worst replace the MPU Board. Thoughts?

Replaced U20 and issue still exists - no switch on column one of the matrix registers. Am I looking at bad MPU board? This board had been repaired previously due to battery leakage before I bought it several months ago.

Yes, game has worked for a few months since I've had it. Vid would really not show anything extra. Game is fully lit with DMD going, but turning key, activating plumb bob tilt, and pressing 4 freeway switches do not register in test mode. Commonality to all this is column 1 of the switch matrix which is controlled by U20.

I get correct resistance full length of wire from switch to board. When I disconnect the switches and manually attempt to close by bridging pins with wire, these items still do not close even though I can make others close with this process.

I did just find something that I need verified. If I test continuity from J206 pins to corresponding U20 pins, I do not get continuity when testing pin 1 to pin 1 which does have a path, but all others do have continuity (except pin 8 ) which does not have a path. Should pin 1 of J206 have continuity with pin 1 (bottom right) of U20?

Yes, R67 seems bad, no continuity.

Actually, I found that R67 is okay but there does appear to be a break in the trace between J206-1 and R67.

Okay, so how do I repair a tiny break very close to other contacts?

Tough to see given resolution of this camera, but I think too delicate for my skill level.

Follow the line directly above the 1 on J206 until it reaches the green cylinder. You will see some exposed copper which is where the break is.

image (resized).jpg

Well, after diagnosing everything and considering everyone's input, I just ordered a replacement MPU board from Arcadeshop.

I'll still need to move the chips from old to new, so hopefully no challenges with that.

Thank you everyone, for you support and guidance.

FYI, if you ever find yourself having to pull an ASIC chip without a tool here is what I did.

- Fashion 2 LARGE paperclips according to this guide: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/removing-your-bios-chip.47068/
- lInsert clips under opposite corners of chip then bend them in such a way that the top loops overlap
- insert a screw driver or something similar through the loops to serve as a handle that will also,apply equal pressure to the two clips
- with a firm grip on the screwdriver and with the other hand holding,down the board, firmly without jerkiness pull upward to remove the chip
- if chip does not move, as was my case, lightly heat the four outer edges of the socket with a heat gun to have them expand a little and try again (chip should pop right out now)

I am so excited, I hardly know where to start. First, thanks to all the great pinheads in this forum that helped my diagnose the cause of my issue. I just received my new Rottendog MPU board today. At first I was greatly disappointed as I put all my old chips in the board, mounted it, reconnected all the cables, then with one eye closed and reserved hope I turned on the machine only do have a scrambled DMD . . . immediate devastation! I turned the machine off, took a deep breath, reattached all the cables, and voila - all is right with the world.

And now, the exciting part. Not only was my immediate issue resolved (i.e., I could actually start a game now), but all of my other nagging issues that I had learned to live with over the last nine months magically disappeared! For example, my flippers no longer incremented the score just by pushing the flipper buttons. My entire lighting system no longer flashed off at random times during play. Best yet, my back ramp timing is actually correct - when I launch a ball it actually lifts and allows the ball to roll under it before lowering again.

I can't wait to get back to playing this pin and trying to beat my old high score (only appropriate since it was obviously erased with the board replacement). Thank you again to everyone for helping me through this!