(Topic ID: 124426)

Williams Getaway.. No 5 Volt on Pw. driver board.


By Flippermatt

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by urbanledge
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Hello,

My Getaway kept dying and rebooting... I figured classic BR2 and cap-switch was necessary. I switched all 5 big major caps + C2 and C4... Had a hell of a lot of problems desoldering and getting the old caps out.. In the end I had to heat from backside and gently pull the caps out.. How easy/hard is it to destroy them looprings in the holes ? I was careful.....

I reflowed solder, cleaned and brushed all the connector pins before installing the driver board back.

Switching the game on makes a small Hmmm in the speakers, then nothing... The diods light on the driverboard EXCEPT for the 5Volt and Led02 and led03. (I think 03 should light too normally, but not sure)...

It seems a step back as the game doesn´t want to boot even... I was planning on changing the B.R but thery haven´t arrived yet.. Where do I check and look where the 5V feed apparently does not make it through alright ? Could getting not enough flow of the new solder in the "rings" in the holes be the problem ?

What could be wrong ?

Thanks
Matt

#2 4 years ago

Check your voltage on the test points first and also do lots of continuity test on the components you replaced bc its very easy to damage the traces

#3 4 years ago

Also there are many things you sld have did before changing all the caps

#4 4 years ago

Ok.. Somehow I understood that the common problem 95% of the time with a dying/rebooting WPC is Bridge Rectifier no 2 and Capacitor no 5 on the driver board.. This is what PinWiki suggests as well.

It was time to switch them anyway as they are probably 12ish years old.

What "many" other things do you mean should have been done prior to a Cap switch ?

// Matt

#5 4 years ago

Did you check voltages before you recapped the db?

#6 4 years ago

turn it on and wiggle the big caps.
I bet you pulled out a through hole.
I should know........

#7 4 years ago

Matt,

Yes, the Bridge/Cap is the most common issue that causes resets, but there are other things that can also cause it. Such as, look at your connector J101 and make sure it's not burnt or heat damaged. It can heat damage like you sometimes see on GI connectors. You could also have a cold solder joint on the male pins. I'd have suggested you wiggle the plug to see if it affects the problem before you changed the bridge/cap. Check Fuse F113 with your meter and make sure it's not bad or blown.

It's also not uncommon to need a jumper run between BR2 + to capacitor C5 + and - to -. The traces and hole plates can be damaged easily. There are also top side traces on those components and you may not have gotten good flow through to the top side. You can test for continuity with your meter from BR2 + to C5 + and - to -, but I've had instances before where I got continuity, but still wasn't getting the voltage. Running the jumper wires cured the issue.

Beyond that, there's a voltage regulator, but since your board was working with resets before you did the work.....your issue is most likely in the continuity between components you replaced.

#8 4 years ago

Thanks a million BIG70.

Say I busted a through hole and ring.. Is it recommended to solder stich these cards ? Are there also paths running not only top/bottom but also inbetween inside the layer of the card ?

reg
Matt

#9 4 years ago

no paths inside the pcb,
just top and bottom.

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