Hello,

My Getaway kept dying and rebooting... I figured classic BR2 and cap-switch was necessary. I switched all 5 big major caps + C2 and C4... Had a hell of a lot of problems desoldering and getting the old caps out.. In the end I had to heat from backside and gently pull the caps out.. How easy/hard is it to destroy them looprings in the holes ? I was careful.....

I reflowed solder, cleaned and brushed all the connector pins before installing the driver board back.

Switching the game on makes a small Hmmm in the speakers, then nothing... The diods light on the driverboard EXCEPT for the 5Volt and Led02 and led03. (I think 03 should light too normally, but not sure)...

It seems a step back as the game doesn´t want to boot even... I was planning on changing the B.R but thery haven´t arrived yet.. Where do I check and look where the 5V feed apparently does not make it through alright ? Could getting not enough flow of the new solder in the "rings" in the holes be the problem ?

What could be wrong ?

Thanks
Matt

Ok.. Somehow I understood that the common problem 95% of the time with a dying/rebooting WPC is Bridge Rectifier no 2 and Capacitor no 5 on the driver board.. This is what PinWiki suggests as well.

It was time to switch them anyway as they are probably 12ish years old.

What "many" other things do you mean should have been done prior to a Cap switch ?

// Matt

Thanks a million BIG70.

Say I busted a through hole and ring.. Is it recommended to solder stich these cards ? Are there also paths running not only top/bottom but also inbetween inside the layer of the card ?

reg
Matt