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(Topic ID: 268707)

Williams Getaway II help


By Scarecrow1f9

5 months ago



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  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Scarecrow1f9
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#1 5 months ago

Hey All, I'm new to these forums - hopefully I'm posting in the right place. I did read Vid's guide...

I'm looking for some help on a no boot issue for a 1992 Williams Getaway II, domestic V2 with no aftermarket parts (that I can see). My father-in-law owned this for it's life, as far as I know, and it has been sitting in his house not functioning since 2013. He says one day it just didn't turn on anymore.

I have no idea what I'm doing, this is all new to me and I was SHOCKED the first time I opened it all up. I expected one mainboard, power supply, etc.

Upon plugging in the machine the speakers give a pop and then there's a slight hum from them. No other indication of life beside the solid red LED's on all of the boards. No obvious scorching, corrosion or capacitor issues. Checked all the fuses including the line in fuse - and I did find a busted one. The fuse is F103 on the "power driver board" listed as being associated with solenoid #25-#28, 3A, S.B.. I replaced the fuse and tried again - same thing. It did not blow the new fuse, it appeared to have no impact. I do have a volt meter.

I did not provide pictures because I don't see anything notable to photograph. It's absolutely pristine inside. Does anyone have advice on where to go from here? Am I in too far over my head? Thanks!

#2 5 months ago

First make sure tje batteries are removed. They may have leaked out hopefully not on the cpu board. Try reseating all the ribbon cables and make sure they line up as there are two (2) rows of pins.

#3 5 months ago

Use Pinwiki to figure out how far you're getting in the boot process. Check voltages at the test points.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

1 month later
#4 4 months ago

Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I'm just now getting to take a second look at it today.

Somehow I didn't notice it before, but yes there's a ton of corrosion on the CPU board. The corrosion was hard to see until I got under better lighting. Those batteries are obviously not the problem batteries. Is this thing toast?

There were also three blown fuses on the driver board. Is this the obvious culprit? If so... do people replace these or send them off for repair? Thank you!

IMG_20200615_134137003 (resized).jpg
#5 4 months ago

That thing looks pretty well destroyed. You could clean and replace every affected component on there and it might work or you get a new one

#6 4 months ago

The rottendog replacement seems fairly priced, is that the route you guys would suggest?

#7 4 months ago

Rottendog usually gets mixed reviews. It will likely work fine if you prefer to do that vs extensive board work. If there was any hope at repairing an original that is the best route. There’s a couple of people on here that are very experienced at board work and could let you know the absolute best route. chrishibler

#8 4 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Rottendog usually gets mixed reviews. It will likely work fine if you prefer to do that vs extensive board work. If there was any hope at repairing an original that is the best route. There’s a couple of people on here that are very experienced at board work and could let you know the absolute best route. chrishibler

Agreed, Chris is the man I would turn to for board work. That one is pretty roached but looks can be deceiving. If you're going to spend the money, and it's possible to repair the board, I'd get rid of the batteries and have the NVRAM installed.

EDIT: BTW, I would not recommend powering on your pin until that board has been repaired or replaced and all blown fuses replaced, you could cause more damage to your machine.

Do you have any other photos of the other boards?

#9 4 months ago

I'll take some pics today - I went ahead and ordered a replacement CPU board.

The other boards "look" ok - nothing obvious to me, anyways. But, I don't know what I'm looking at. I'm worried about the three blown fuses on the power driver board.

With the new board coming in, I have a spare board with the ASIC, processor and ROM still intact. Does anybody want them? Or would they be fried too?

#10 4 months ago
Quoted from Scarecrow1f9:

With the new board coming in, I have a spare board with the ASIC, processor and ROM still intact. Does anybody want them? Or would they be fried too?

You’ll probably need to transfer them to the new board. Check with the manufacturer of the new board. Clean any alkaline from them before you do.

#11 4 months ago
Quoted from Scarecrow1f9:

With the new board coming in, I have a spare board with the ASIC, processor and ROM still intact. Does anybody want them? Or would they be fried too?

Yes sir. I'd be happy to rehome the old board.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#12 4 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Yes sir. I'd be happy to rehome the old board.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

lol! "Rehome"

#13 4 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Yes sir. I'd be happy to rehome the old board.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Hey Chris - someone messaged me that day and I promised it to them, sorry!

So, I got the new board in, installed it - fired right up. Really cool to see it running! Lots of bulbs out, needs bumpers, etc - but making headway.

Until - after about 5 minutes of it being plugged in I started smelling electrical burning. Definitely coming from the machine. I unplugged it checked inside, I can't see any obvious shorts or signs of heat. Any ideas on common places to look? Keep in mind, this machine hasnt been used who knows how many years...

#14 4 months ago

Well, nm. Pretty sure this is the culprit. Locked-down and still hot to the touch...

I'm guessing the only way to fix these is replacing them, right?

IMG_20200622_132508418 (resized).jpg
#15 4 months ago
Quoted from Scarecrow1f9:

Well, nm. Pretty sure this is the culprit. Locked-down and still hot to the touch...
I'm guessing the only way to fix these is replacing them, right?
[quoted image]

You’re likely going to have to replace the coil and find the associated transistor on the driver board as it’s likely shorted

#16 4 months ago

blah - ok. A-9415 is the assembly number, top bumper. I have the manual... I'm not seeing which of the transistors is associated with that coil. Is there an online resource that I might use to find that information?

#17 4 months ago

I would first check that the switch associated with that pop bumper isn't permanently closed. Stick a piece of paper between the contacts to ensure they are open and see if the solenoid still fires when you power up.

#18 4 months ago

Q50 transistor. If it’s blown that coil will lock on as soon as the game is turned on. If it’s the switch it won’t lock until the game is started but I’m betting if you had it locked on long enough to smoke, you very likely have blown Q50

#19 4 months ago
Quoted from Scarecrow1f9:

Hey Chris - someone messaged me that day and I promised it to them, sorry!

scarecrow1f9 You would not believe the number of times I've missed something like this...oh well.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#20 4 months ago

Thanks for all the help guys! Did as advised and it appears Q50 is the problem.

It also needs wax, about half the bulbs are dead, all of the rubber is bad, etc... but it's nice to see it on and running. I detached the coil and taped off both of the wires running to it with electrical tape until I can get the new parts in. Thanks again, guys! Great community here!

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