(Topic ID: 256349)

Williams Funhouse Back Box Restoration

By chrismoore701

4 years ago


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#1 4 years ago

I am looking to rebuild my back box and need some tips. The sides of mine are splintered, but solid enough to use for dimensions. I was planning to use some of the parts off my old one, the back of the box and the back glass locking mechanism. I have new stickers coming. What is the best way to paint this? I planned to get some good quality plywood and go to town.

This does not seem to be too hard. I have cleaned up a couple pins, so I know my way around them.

#2 4 years ago
Quoted from chrismoore701:

I am looking to rebuild my back box and need some tips. The sides of mine are splintered, but solid enough to use for dimensions. I was planning to use some of the parts off my old one, the back of the box and the back glass locking mechanism. I have new stickers coming. What is the best way to paint this? I planned to get some good quality plywood and go to town.
This does not seem to be too hard. I have cleaned up a couple pins, so I know my way around them.

The question is, are you time and money ahead doing it yourself or just ordering an aftermarket factory spec back box pre painted that you just need to slap your graphics on and be done? I personally wouldn't waste my time trying to restore the back box.

#3 4 years ago

Where can you get these?

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

The question is, are you time and money ahead doing it yourself or just ordering an aftermarket factory spec back box pre painted that you just need to slap your graphics on and be done? I personally wouldn't waste my time trying to restore the back box.

I wasn't aware these could be purchased. After building one myself for High Speed, unless the price is > $150 - or you just really love woodworking - then I'd throw cash at it.

Here's a photo album with my journey building and painting mine: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPlsnPKAYkAd0jBRXgG3nXI5e3uDuOUMVYv-jsNmCuf2njvSGihj8J6xnKja067CQ?key=RG1TQUo5aVRVQWU4X2NLUHJaUS00U21TNjY5NFNn

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from cjchand:

I wasn't aware these could be purchased. After building one myself for High Speed, unless the price is > $150 - or you just really love woodworking - then I'd throw cash at it.
Here's a photo album with my journey building and painting mine: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPlsnPKAYkAd0jBRXgG3nXI5e3uDuOUMVYv-jsNmCuf2njvSGihj8J6xnKja067CQ?key=RG1TQUo5aVRVQWU4X2NLUHJaUS00U21TNjY5NFNn

How did you spray it? Rattle can?

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from chrismoore701:

How did you spray it? Rattle can?

Combination of HLVP gun for the base coat and rattle can for the stencils. The paint codes for the Sherwin Williams paint I had mixed didn't match my cabinet very well, so found decent matches at Home Depot for the red and yellow.

If I had it to do over again, given the size, I might have just gone rattle can for all of it. You have to keep cleaning the gun between coats, which just adds extra steps to the whole process.

If you're doing anything with stencils, I would *not* recommend the Rustoleum 2x paint. While I got lucky on the red, it was warmer the next day when I did the yellow. The paint setup too quickly and it was a race against the paint solidifying vs getting proper coverage. Of course, I'm not exactly an expert when it comes to this, so someone might chime in on a better strategy.

Good luck!

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Combination of HLVP gun for the base coat and rattle can for the stencils. The paint codes for the Sherwin Williams paint I had mixed didn't match my cabinet very well, so found decent matches at Home Depot for the red and yellow.
If I had it to do over again, given the size, I might have just gone rattle can for all of it. You have to keep cleaning the gun between coats, which just adds extra steps to the whole process.
If you're doing anything with stencils, I would *not* recommend the Rustoleum 2x paint. While I got lucky on the red, it was warmer the next day when I did the yellow. The paint setup too quickly and it was a race against the paint solidifying vs getting proper coverage. Of course, I'm not exactly an expert when it comes to this, so someone might chime in on a better strategy.
Good luck!

I plan to buy a can of this paint. I think 1 can should be enough. I have decals for the side. Hope to reuse the back. so I would need to paint the edges, top and inside sides.

http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from chrismoore701:

I plan to buy a can of this paint. I think 1 can should be enough. I have decals for the side. Hope to reuse the back. so I would need to paint the edges, top and inside sides.
http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm

For the cost, I'd just buy two cans. Worst case, you're out $10. Best case, you aren't sitting around another week waiting for that 2nd can to arrive.

#10 4 years ago

How about pulling the old cabinet apart to use the back and the locking mechanism.

#11 4 years ago

Is there anybody out there?

#12 4 years ago

Show some pics of the box. I bet it could be repaired with epoxy and Bondo.

#13 4 years ago

Here are pics.

4FC9D33E-823F-41FC-99ED-FAD197B14681 (resized).jpeg4FC9D33E-823F-41FC-99ED-FAD197B14681 (resized).jpeg922EDC14-0DC9-425D-A180-D0E5F5B098C9 (resized).jpeg922EDC14-0DC9-425D-A180-D0E5F5B098C9 (resized).jpeg9DBE9724-23DF-4F49-BD20-3EE53809DC46 (resized).jpeg9DBE9724-23DF-4F49-BD20-3EE53809DC46 (resized).jpeg
#14 4 years ago

Those corners definitely need some work. Until they’re firmly secured and square, it’s pointless doing anything else. What’s your woodwork skills like?

#15 4 years ago

Woodworking skills are ok. Nothing fancy. I am confident i can build a new one. I build cars so body work skills are good. But i think it would be easier to build a new one. I just need to know how hard it will be to get the locking mechanism and the back off.

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