(Topic ID: 325631)

williams fun fest weak flipper

By vipertblck

1 year ago

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    #1 1 year ago

    both flippers work, but one is weak. the weak one is the one that someone replaced (looks brand new). noticing a few things. the switch for end of travel is NC on the original fully working flipper, and the new one is NO. if i set the new one to NC, the flipper moves about 1/8" if even, and is even weaker. the new one is FL-20-300/28-400, the old original one appears to be the same but hard to read because it's taped up. the wiring looks to be correct, based off looking at the old original one to compare. any ideas, or just a bad flipper coil from the factory on the new replaced one?

    #2 1 year ago

    EOS switch should be closed. Make sure it is closed the entire stroke and only opens just before the end of stroke. You may want to check the cabinet flipper switch too to make sure that's clean and adjusted. Also, need 1/16" of flipper bat up/down play on top of the bushing. Make sure the flipper coil is wired correctly. The EOS switch is wired in parallel across the hold coil.

    #3 1 year ago

    think it may be wired incorrectly. the 2 outer legs need to be specific to teh wires, don't they? on the coil; one of the outer leg wires is much thicker than the other. i'm assuming this one is where the 2 reds go, as they are on the original coil. if this is the case, the new one is hooked up wrong; as it has the white and black/white hooked up to there, and the 2 reds to the thinner wire outer leg. going to try switching them and see what happens. sorry if that's a bit confusing on explaining.

    #4 1 year ago

    The 20-300/28-400 is the factory specified solenoid coil alright. The 28-400 side is the hold coil and should have noticeably thinner wires going to two of the terminals. As Schudel5 pointed out, make sure the EOS switch is soldered across the terminals of that hold coil and not the other high-power side.

    #5 1 year ago

    Interesting! I inspected the Funfest schematic and it is drawn in a way I would consider pretty misleading.


    If I look at the way the flipper circuits are depicted in location E-22, it might appear that the EOS is wired to provide a short-circuit shunt across the terminals of the 20-300 side of the coil. I don't think Williams intended to provide that slant, but instead merely listed the flipper solenoid by the usual terminology (with the high power winding listed first).

    I can understand how someone consulting the schematic might wire the flipper solenoid incorrectly.

    In any case, try to duplicate the wiring pattern that is on the properly functioning side.

    #6 1 year ago

    The pic below shows the flipper solenoid wiring on my Williams EM Hot Tip. One outside terminal has a fatter copper wire coming into it from the high-power side of the solenoid coil; the pair of external larger-diameter red wires solder to that terminal. The other outside terminal has one thin copper wire coming into it from the low-power hold side of the solenoid coil and an external smaller-diameter striped wire solders to that terminal.

    The center solenoid terminal is the junction between the high and low power coils. One should be able to see both a fat and a thin copper wire connected to that terminal.

    The pair of leads from the EOS switch should solder to the center solenoid terminal and also to the outside terminal with the single striped wire.

    IMG_3523 (resized).jpgIMG_3523 (resized).jpg
    #7 1 year ago

    yup; just as i though. my coil was wired up wrong. the 2 red wires needed to go to the fatter wire on the coil. basically switch the 2 reds and the white-blk/wht. and now it's got full force flip!


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