(Topic ID: 183293)

Williams Flash will not boot now...

By Ghostcri

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by bdPinball
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders


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#1 3 years ago

First time poster, but I have been lurking and unfortunately have not been able to find an answer to my problem with my Flash.

Last week it was working great until suddenly it would freeze up once in awhile but a quick power on/off usually fixed that. Then a couple of days later the machine would not cycle the ball for a new game and none of the solenoids would fire. Per advice from the previous owner, I checked fuse F2 on the power supply board and it was indeed blown. I replaced it with another 2.5 amp slow-blow fuse and when I plugged it in an turned it on, the GI worked but now none of the LCDs were coming on...The solenoids were still not working and somehow it seems like the problem had gotten worse. I pulled the new fuse again and checked it and it had not been blown. I'm at a loss as to where to start since I had done nothing to the machine since pulling the blown fuse...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

#2 3 years ago

the fuse blew for a reason.. you need to work out WHY not just replace it.

#3 3 years ago

You might want to read through Mark's guide to Williams system 3 troubleshooting and repair found here: http://pinball.flippers.info/system6repairpart1.asp

One of the most common culprits in these early Williams machines is the interconnect between the MPU and Driver boards. Per the Mark's guide, you may want to try reseating the driver board. If this works, then you may want to replace the interconnect.

#4 3 years ago

Let's see some pics of the boards with some closeups of the battery area and the interconnect

#5 3 years ago

My money's on the 40 pin connector.

#6 3 years ago

You might want to fill in your state/area. Many here will be glad to help a newbie.

#7 3 years ago

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate it.

The previous owner replaced the 40 pin and relocated the battery pack off-board. Here are some photos of it all as well as the power supply board. I had previously located a loose pin/connector on one of the slave lcd cables that I was going to replace but that shouldn't affect it from lighting up or starting...?

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#8 3 years ago

Well a little update on my issue with Flash.

I was advised to check the voltages on my power supply board and after I found a diagram and referenced the manual for the proper voltages this is what I got:

unregulated logic supply - 12.97v - typical reading per manual is +11v

logic b+ - fluctuated every time I measured it! from -7.7 to -20 to -15.6 - typical reading per manual is +5.1v...

logic supply - 18.54 - typical reading per manual is 18v

solenoid supply - 34.7 - typical reading is 40v

display voltage - -100.7v - typical reading is -100v

display voltage again - -100.2 - typical reading is -100v

general illumination - i was unsure of where the "fuse card fuse" was so I was unable to measure this

Crazy thing is, while I was measuring the voltages, the machine "sprung back to life" and started working properly again...
It's cool that it works but what worries me is why all of a sudden when I didn't do anything?

Any ideas?

#9 3 years ago

i have a flash machine also, and the connector problems are non stop. I would first make sure all power supply voltages are within range, as they vary with line voltage. Secondly, and i havent done so yet, there is a re-designed mpu / solenoid board for sale out there that is one board, not two, solves the connector problem and other issues. sells for about $300.00 i think rotten dog amusements? íf not, you can buy a new set of connectors/pins for about $12.00 on ebay. if you dont know how to re-work a circuit board, i would recommend getting professional help on that. i will be buying one as soon as can afford one. P.S. replacing the vacuum scores with led scores is a very good expenditure!!! i also need to re-build my drop targets soon.....
good luck!!!

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

the fuse blew for a reason.. you need to work out WHY not just replace it.

I've had that fuse blow for the hell of it- more particularly because of the Blanking circuit being low, then, the game comes up, and all the coils fire at the same time, thus causing that fuse to blow. I had to replace it with a circuit breaker on my firepower because it was going through a fuse a month or so. Anyway, I'll step out of the shadows, *I* am the previous owner, and as he indicates I did re-do the 40 pin interconnect - both sides, as well as most of the headers around the CPU, and any suspect ones around the driver.

To the OP- I think you're doing great with this game man, keep up the good work!


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