(Topic ID: 69785)

Williams Flash - Killed the Flashers

By jtmarten

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

I recently bought a Flash in pretty nice condition for $550. Must have been a later production unit as it has the System6 MPU. Previous owner had it professionally serviced. I installed LEDs for the playfield and playfield GI (nat white frosted flat tops, blue frosted flat tops for the guide lanes and drains, blue 8-LED #89s for the flashers). Guide lane plastics were mismatched, so I replaced them with new blue transparent covers. Backbox lighting will remain incandescent.
I decided since it only has 2 flashers, it needed a bit more pop, so I ordered parts to install 6 LED flashers under the cabinet. 8-LED #89s: Blues front and rear, nat white center.
I had the 6 flashers wired in and they were awesome. Got holes drilled in the cabinet, got the front and middle right side and left front flashers mounted. The wiring for the back and middle one on the left side were twisted around, so I unraveled them, tossed the back one to the back of the cabinet. Got the middle one mounted. Decided to power up and see how it looked, got no flashing. ????!!! Worked just a few minutes before. Right side rear was sitting in the hole, left side rear - oh %$#%. When I tossed it to the back, it landed with the + connector arm right on top of the cabinet ground strap. ^%$#$!!! Everything but the flashers work, so I must have roasted a driver chip or transistor. Bad thing is, I can't even find the flashers on the schematic to trace it.

Anyone know which driver chip or transistor feeds the flashers??

Thanks!

#2 10 years ago

Flashers are solenoid 6, Q25.

Other solenoids are working and it's not just the solenoid fuse? And not some of your extra wiring came loose?

#3 10 years ago

Thanks!!
Everything else works so I'm assuming it is not a fuse; they all looked good. Need to get my meter from the garage and check them though.

#4 10 years ago

Replaced the 2n4401 and TIP120 (Q24 & Q25). Still no flashing. Bypassed the small resistor on the small board that feeds power to the flashers. Works fine. So, looks like I'll replace the resistor.

#5 10 years ago

Couple of things to note about the flashers on Flash.

There is a resistor board under the playfield for the flash lamps. On the board are two resistors - one a larger 330 ohm 2w "warming" resistor and the other a smaller 1 ohm 1/2w resistor. The 330 ohm resistor provides power to the flash lamps all the time to keep the incandescent element warm and provide a brighter flash. If you run LEDs, this resistor should be removed otherwise the LEDs will be on all the time. The 1 ohm resistor is needed to complete the circuit.

The flash lamps are wired in series. This means if one of the lamps goes out, the other will not work. It's an all-or-nothing proposition.

viperrwk

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Couple of things to note about the flashers on Flash

Good info - thanks! I'm picking up a project Flash this weekend, and I may think about adding a few extra flash bulbs.

1 week later
#7 10 years ago

Thanks for that info Viper! The 1-ohm was bad so it was replaced and they all work fine now. Maybe the 330 is bad as well since the LEDs work as they should.
Six LED flashers were installed through the cabinet bottom, three along each side. I used 4 blue 8-led #89s at the corners, 2 bright white #89s in the center. The whites seem to overpower the blues, so next time I order parts I'll order several more 8-led blues.

#8 10 years ago

Looks awesome Marten.

Flash is one of those older games that just looks killer with LEDS.

#9 10 years ago

Likely the 330 ohm is bad. It is common for games of that era to burn out those resistors. Replacing it with a 5w is the smart thing to do if you are keeping the incandescents otherwise you can cut out what's there since it seems to be bad anyway.

viperrwk

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from jtmarten:

Six LED flashers were installed through the cabinet bottom, three along each side

That is cool - I hope you don't mind if I steal your idea.

#11 10 years ago

Feel free - it's not my idea; I saw it done to a newer machine.
I am considering adding a couple flashers to the back box, maybe just #44s to backlight the lightning.

#12 10 years ago

Mine had 455 blinkers behind the lightning. Simple, effective, no need to run wiring.

viperrwk

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Mine had 455 blinkers behind the lightning. Simple, effective, no need to run wiring.
viperrwk

LED string?

#14 10 years ago

No. 455's are regular looking bulbs that blink on/off.

#15 10 years ago

Gotcha.
Kind of a PIA to wire, but I'd like mine only lit with the flash lamps. Lots of real estate there so adding a few shouldn't be too hard.

#16 10 years ago

Maybe a silly question, but are some of the backglass lights supposed to blink; i.e. from the driver board? Specifically those behind/near the lightning? Mine are on continuously, but I've seen some that blink.
Or are those 455s?

#17 10 years ago

Those are 455's.

#18 10 years ago

Thanks. Glad that means no more board work to do, but bad since now I'll feel the need to install some additional LEDs around the lightning and install them in the flash circuit.

4 months later
#19 10 years ago

Hello,
I thought I read inthe instruction manual that all lamps were 44/47's. Is the 455's a better option as I have put 44/47's LEDS in my Flash. Cheers Julls

#20 10 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Likely the 330 ohm is bad. It is common for games of that era to burn out those resistors. Replacing it with a 5w is the smart thing to do if you are keeping the incandescents otherwise you can cut out what's there since it seems to be bad anyway.
viperrwk

Can a 330 ohm 5 watt or even 10 watt ceramic type resistor be used as a direct substitute if using incandescents?

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