(Topic ID: 100973)

Williams firepower Pictures needed! Tech help as well.

By halpain24

9 years ago


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  • 41 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by halpain24
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#1 9 years ago

So I recently got a williams firepower and it will turn on and the flippers work. After turning on and seeing a few backglass lights nothing else happens. You can clearly see some battery damage and I am pretty certain a couple of boards need to be replaced. I am totally a newbie when it comes to pinball parts so please excuse me not knowing what anything is called whatsoever. The board with the Rom on it and batteries on it seems damaged. Also the board below it. (interconnect board maybe) which is connected to it by a long connector across the top. The right two boards (power board, and sound board I believe look to be good. Also the scoreboards seem to be good but just not working because of the bottom board I referred to I believe. I can smell something cooking when it is powered on as well and it seems to be coming from that same board. So if it sounds like a good idea I believe I need to replace those two boards, and then possibly the playfield. I would rather get it working before I replace the playfield though. If someone has these parts or knows where I can get the best price online somewhere, let me know. Thanks!

#2 9 years ago

Sounds like you have quite a project on your hands. The top board is the CPU board and the bottom is the driver board, they are connected together by the 40 pin connector. Those boards need to be refurbished, post some pictures on here of the boards for better anylsis. You also need to go through everything underneath the playfield, looking for burnt coils, broken wires, missing parts etc. it will do you no good to have the boards reworked only to put back in with damaged parts underneath. Clays guide to system 3-6 repairs is amazing, read through it to help you understand what your dealing with. The coin op cauldron does excellent board repair as well as a few people on Pinside as well. Search this forum for help as well.

#3 9 years ago

I do have a project. Everything under the playfield seems to look pretty good. On the driver board there is a row of black rubber looking (resistors maybe?????) they are melting. Also the some of the pins in the 40 pin connector seem to be falling out. So it seems like both boards are in pretty bad shape. I will have to post pics later.

#5 9 years ago

Got a meter?

Know how to solder?

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Got a meter?
Know how to solder?

Yes to the meter, and somewhat to the solder. I have cheap equipment and limited soldering experience, not much on the boards.

#7 9 years ago

We need pictures to fully understand your possible board damage. Also, we need to know your skill level, if any, with trouble-shooting, soldering, reading schematics, using a meter, etc. This forum can be very helpful, but you need to supply us with some info. first.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from papazit1963:

We need pictures to fully understand your possible board damage. Also, we need to know your skill level, if any, with trouble-shooting, soldering, reading schematics, using a meter, etc. This forum can be very helpful, but you need to supply us with some info. first.

I understand, and will do as soon as possible with the pictures. I am at work and have a very busy weekend. I have a very minimal skill level. I have only soldered wires under the playfield. I do however have a twin brother who can solder. I have no education in electronics to read the schematics; however, I have been able to figure out issues with other pins off of the schematics enough to get a genral idea and know how to narrow things down. I did state I was a real newbie. I am in no hurry, and I would love to learn. I don't want to spend so much money and it never work, but I am not afraid to spend a little more than the machine is worth to make it work since I got it for free. Making the game work is my first priority. I am thinking about following Vids thread. I will have to learn some as I go, but as I said no hurry. Im pretty sure these boards are decently messed up. I really am not so much in this for this game specifically. I just really would like to learn how to do these repairs more than just buying all replacement parts, and I think it's pretty cool to revive an old game to keep out there working. And again, I will try to take pictures later. It is 1PM here and I won't be home until after 5. Thanks for all of your responses and appreciate all your help.

#9 9 years ago

Search for my firepower thread... It should help...

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from halpain24:

I have a very minimal skill level.

Then I would get the Rottendog board that Timerider suggested.

Once the game is running, then you can work on the old boards at your leisure.

#12 9 years ago

It might take awhile but you'll be able to get her going....follow vid's guide above... You'll be very knowledgable in a short period of time...

1 month later
#13 9 years ago

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#14 9 years ago

Can Someone take a picture or a look at this picture on a Firepower or System 6 Driver Board So I can see if these there should be a connection here? Thanks.

#15 9 years ago

I just pulled both those boards out of my Firepower. They are completely original and have never been worked on. The game worked fine for at least a year than I started having trouble with it. I'm fairly certain it's related to the 40 pin connector which is almost always advised as the first thing to replace. Sounds like your brother could do this.

So what I'm saying is, I can't guarantee these boards will work out of the box but you may get lucky and they do, or after replacing the 40 pin you should be home free. At any rate, you'd be way ahead than with what you have. $80 + shipping for both.

If you do go with the Rottendog board for $280, I can attest that it works like a champ in Firepower. Mine runs great now.

Lee

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#16 9 years ago

Halpain you better jump on the above offer ^^^^^^^^^

If not, the rest of us will, like me for instance.

#17 9 years ago

$80 for the OP, the rates go up for the rest of you scoundrels.

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

I just pulled both those boards out of my Firepower. They are completely original and have never been worked on. The game worked fine for at least a year than I started having trouble with it. I'm fairly certain it's related to the 40 pin connector which is almost always advised as the first thing to replace. Sounds like your brother could do this.
So what I'm saying is, I can't guarantee these boards will work out of the box but you may get lucky and they do, or after replacing the 40 pin you should be home free. At any rate, you'd be way ahead than with what you have. $80 + shipping for both.
If you do go with the Rottendog board for $280, I can attest that it works like a champ in Firepower. Mine runs great now.
Lee

20141011_130504.jpg 144 KB

Quoted from vid1900:

Halpain you better jump on the above offer ^^^^^^^^^
If not, the rest of us will, like me for instance.

I just finished Replacing everything on your Thread VID. If I can get a pic of the back to show me if that connection should be there or not then I am ready to put my boards back in.

#19 9 years ago

Not sure where you need to see but these are high res so you can zoom in.

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#20 9 years ago

So, Want to get some opinions. I put the boards back in.... (Thanks for the picture by the way) and now I can turn on the game, get all zeros on the boards. I can put coins in and start a game. I have sounds, and I can use the flippers. Also Switches seem to register points. but, No coils are working. No balls kickout, pops dont work, no eject holes kickout balls. Also GI lights are on but inserts do not light up. Any ideas? Thanks.

#21 9 years ago

Do any of the coils have voltage?

Do you have 28v coil voltage on the PS?

Is F2 fuse blown?

#22 9 years ago

Fuse checks out good as well as voltage. I took the Driver Board off and noticed some of my @#$@# handy work on the 40 PIN. Im going to touch that up and we will go from there. Ill post my outcome.

#23 9 years ago

Ok, So I was checking the wrong fues I guess. The boards are all set now. The Fuse 2nd over from the bottom was blown and I put a new one in and all the Coils started kicking at start up and then it blew the new fuse.

#24 9 years ago

If all the coils locked on at startup, 95% of the time it's the 40 pin.

#25 9 years ago

They all continued Kicking over and over until the fuse blew. Any specific issue with the 40 pin when that happens? Like something not connected or usually a short/bridge?

#26 9 years ago

Messed with the 40 pin more. It looks really good. But after touching up everything, When the game comes on only the left eject is auto kicking.

#27 9 years ago

Ok, More and more troubleshooting. It seems like the left eject doesnt blow the fuse, just continues to kick. I disconnected the 2J11-8 Wire and the left Eject quit kicking(obviously because its disabled) but when the coil in the drain tries to kick a ball over to the Eject that coil seems to be the one causing the fuse to blow.

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from halpain24:

Ok, More and more troubleshooting. It seems to be specific coils that cause it to blow the fuse, I know the drains coil that kicks to the eject and at least the upper right pop both caused it. It is no longer auto kicking coils when turned on but when playing this happens

#29 9 years ago

Got rid of the fuse issue, by working on the Male 40 pin connector

#30 9 years ago

Only Issue left is all the inserts. GI is working, Any ideas? I ran the all lamp test and nothing lights up. I replaced a light with a known working light and still nothing. Thanks for all the help so far!!!!!

#31 9 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

I just pulled both those boards out of my Firepower. They are completely original and have never been worked on. The game worked fine for at least a year than I started having trouble with it. I'm fairly certain it's related to the 40 pin connector which is almost always advised as the first thing to replace. Sounds like your brother could do this.
So what I'm saying is, I can't guarantee these boards will work out of the box but you may get lucky and they do, or after replacing the 40 pin you should be home free. At any rate, you'd be way ahead than with what you have. $80 + shipping for both.
If you do go with the Rottendog board for $280, I can attest that it works like a champ in Firepower. Mine runs great now.
Lee
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My boards are really nice but, wow, these are beautiful.

#32 9 years ago

Lamp matrix comes from the driver board, lower right corner.

If it's completely gone, check F3 on the power supply. That's where the 18 volt supply comes from.

Or, check DC Volts from 3J4-5 to 3J4-1. Should have ~18 volts

If the fuse is good, and you don't have 18 volts, most likely BR1 is bad.

#33 9 years ago

Still pretty new at testing some of this stuff, and On the manual I found online and on the board itself neither one tells me which fuse is F3. but all the fuses seem to check out good now. On testing voltage, I see what I think is the two bridge rectifiers on the wall below the power board. How do I know which one is BR1, and do you test voltage from the two sides or top and bottom? because the left one seems to test around 24V top to bottom, and the other tests around 16V top to bottom.

#34 9 years ago

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#35 9 years ago

http://www.firepowerpinball.com/

Go to "FP Documents" and download all of the Assembly/Logic diagrams and Wiring diagrams.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2

Scroll down about a 1/3 of the way for info regarding your bridge rectifiers

#36 9 years ago

Ok, Tested it out. The fuse is good, and I am getting 18V on J4-5 to J4-1. Still nothing. Flashers under the Fire Power lights work and GI works but still no insert bulbs.

1 month later
#37 9 years ago

So, Still having the same problems with no inserts working. I tested the F3 fuse and it is definitely good. I do not know how to test BR1? I have tried testing it and it seems to read the same as the one left to it, but again I have no idea the proper way to test it. Is it worth just switching it out to see what it does? or is there any other common issues to look at?

#38 9 years ago
Quoted from halpain24:

So, Still having the same problems with no inserts working. I tested the F3 fuse and it is definitely good. I do not know how to test BR1? I have tried testing it and it seems to read the same as the one left to it, but again I have no idea the proper way to test it. Is it worth just switching it out to see what it does? or is there any other common issues to look at?

With game off and watch.

#39 9 years ago

Lookup YouTube (how to test a bridge rectifier) the video will explain it better than I can.

#40 9 years ago

Beat me too it, that's the one

#41 9 years ago

Alright, followed the video, Thanks it helped alot, bad news is, BR1 tests good then and the same as BR2.....
Any other ideas what to look at when all inserts are out? Thanks again.

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