(Topic ID: 92668)

Williams Fire Restoration, Custom Topper

By Lonzo

7 years ago


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  • 356 posts
  • 64 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Lonzo
  • Topic is favorited by 62 Pinsiders

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There are 356 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 8.
#51 7 years ago
Quoted from Fixer837:

That's to bad same happened to me when I removed Mylar from a NOS Fire! Playfield.

that's 2 cases of it not working out. Bummer, I thought I could get away with it, I might be buying a CPR playfield after all (Another title that likely will never leave).

#52 7 years ago

Not sure I understand your question, can you show me examples of the 3 you are referring to. As for the shooter lane groove, Mike measures out the groove in whatever "used" samples have been sent to him for the CAD file development. In this case we had 2 samples, a used Brown version & a NOS rejected Black version, both of which had the same Shooter Groove size & dimensions. Obviously the "used" sample is the one we want to model ours after, since this is the proven version from a working production game, however, in this case both samples were the same, so there was no question or concerns regarding the shooter lane groove.

>Stu maybe you can shed some light on this. I have seen 3 different versions of the shooter lane. Looks like you guys are going with the two long switch cut outs. Can you explain what the story is for the different versions and why you guys went with the one you did.<

#53 7 years ago

Here is the first with the 2 long switch cut outs
image-342.jpg

Here is one based on the same art but the switch cut outs are individual. Has the tan area where the above used to be cut. image-452.jpg

Here is mine with separate cut outs and full artwork.
image-129.jpg

I have not been able to find out the reasons for the different versions

#54 7 years ago

Ok, now I see what your referring to......Best explanation is that there were 4 different playfield manufacturers making this plafield and they all did things a bit differently. We show some of these differences on our Web site: http://classicplayfields.com/chronicles.html

Take a look at the "case study" section and you will get your answers.....

#55 7 years ago

Cool. Will take a look.

#56 7 years ago

Just so you guys know, I have decided to try to restore the playfield. I have, what I think is, a good plan and have already been working on it. I don't want to waste your time with a long restoration thread that ends up being trashed. So I have been working and taking pictures and when I feel that it will be a success, I will post all the info here. First layer of clear went on yesterday and I will be painting shortly.

#57 7 years ago

Good luck Lonzo! I just put the final clear on a Taxi that I almost didn't pursue - looks pretty good imho...

Can't wait to see it!

-scott

3 weeks later
#58 7 years ago

CPR/Fire playfield article is live. I've given the OP in this thread credit for using some of his fantastic info gathering and photos about the switch cut-outs...I hope that is OK, Lonzo. If you'd like credit with your actual name, or if you want me to remove the photos of yours I have used, please let me know via PM. I have also linked this fantastic thread in the "Further Reading" section of the article. Thanks guys!

NEWS: CPR Catches Fire!
http://creditdotpinball.com/2014/07/25/news-cpr-catches-fire/

#59 7 years ago
Quoted from spiroagnew:

CPR/Fire playfield article is live. I've given the OP in this thread credit for using some of his fantastic info gathering and photos about the switch cut-outs...I hope that is OK, Lonzo. If you'd like credit with your actual name, or if you want me to remove the photos of yours I have used, please let me know via PM. I have also linked this fantastic thread in the "Further Reading" section of the article. Thanks guys!
NEWS: CPR Catches Fire!
http://creditdotpinball.com/2014/07/25/news-cpr-catches-fire/

I don't mind at all.

I hope to start documenting my playfield restoration soon. It's coming along pretty well.

1 week later
#60 7 years ago

After a lot of work on the playfield I am nearing the end of the restore and I am very happy with the results. I figured I would go ahead and start the documentation on it. I have been taking pictures the entire time and I believe I have most of the work documented.

As I said earlier, when I pulled the mylar off it was a disaster. And from what I have read, Fire seemed to be worse than most other system 11 games when I comes to mylar. I have take mylar off other system 11 games with no issues so I was a bit surprised when a lot of the artwork came off.

Here are some pictures of the damage right after the mylar removal.

mylar removed.JPGcenter damage.JPGupper middle damage.JPGupper dmage.JPG

As you can see, the artwork was not stuck very well at all to the plastic inserts. The large inserts were really bad and once it started to come up, there was nothing that could be done.

You can also see that the brown brick area is faded a little. you can see the darker color where the posts covered up. That will come into play later.

#61 7 years ago

Before I made the decision on whether to attempt to restore this playfield I needed to see if it was possible to make a decal to reproduce the building. Here is the test decal I made and I was very happy with the look and the color match.

test building.JPG

The grey was not quite a match but I figured I can work on that later.
grey smoke match.JPG

#62 7 years ago

Well, sometimes you have to make things look worse before you can make it look better. I planned on using an insert decal set so I had to scrape all the artwork off the inserts. I did this by using a new exacto blade and scored around the edge of the insert and then used a flat blade to scrape the paint off. the scored edge prevented any chipping outside the insert edge.

insert art removed.JPG

Here it is ready to clearcoat
clear 1 ready.JPG

FIrst layer of clearcoat sanded and ready for more work.
clear 1 sanded.JPG

#63 7 years ago

One of the challenges is to try and plan on the painting, decals etc as to have the minimum number of clear coat layers. you cant put decals over paint etc. I also try not to put more that two colors of paint on each other before clearing. The area that needed the most work was the shooter lane. It was pretty chewed up with a good amount of artwork missing.

Before I could get started, I had to make some vinyl masks for painting. I spend a lot of time on the road so this is a great time to take care of all the artwork. Here are the masks that I created for most of the painting I had to do. Nice toes.

mask.JPG

I started with the orange areas.
masked and painted.
orange shooter paint.JPG

Orange finished
orange shooter done.JPG

Here is the yellow masked and ready to shoot.
shooter yellow masked.JPG

Here is the yellow is finished. The red flames will be added after the next clear coat.
shooter yellow done.JPG

#64 7 years ago

Now time for a little bondo work. I had a few recessed spots and the chewed up upper lane. I used bondo for this. Here is a pic of the bondo before sanding. I apologize that I don't have a picture of the bondo after sanding.
bondo.JPG

Now it is time to attack the big red lane around the top. I used a combination of Friskit and vinyl masks to prepare for painting. for the large inner and outer edges I used Friskit and hand traced with a blade. For the switch cutouts and the lower "entry" points that are much more curved, I used a vinyl cut mask. You can tell the vinyl masks as they are blue.

Here is is ready to paint.
red lane masked.JPG

Here is it after the paint has been sprayed. It turned out beautiful but I don't have a picture of it right after I took the mask off. You will be able to see some great pictures of it in later stages.

Before the mask was removed.
red lane friskit.JPG

#65 7 years ago

Looks like a lot of work but coming along nicely. Thank you for the photos and keep us updated.

#66 7 years ago

Now for the center section. I will use a insert decal for the big "FIRE" insert and for the actual building flames. The building will be a printed on white water slide decal. I ordered the insert decals from Classic Arcades. I like the insert decals but they are not without their shortcomings. They look great but they are a little thicker than I would have liked. There is no way to level these after one clear coat. It will take a least two clear sessions with sanding to come close. They also do not have the light blocking masking. So for the big fire insert and flames, If you don't reproduce the light blocking mask the entire area will light up. For this reason I decided to mask off and paint the mask black before I put on the inserts. Also if a white decal is put down over darker colors it will distort the lighter colors on the decal. For this reason I need to paint the building area white so that when I put the decal down all the colors will be true.

Here is the Fire insert and building/flames area masked and ready for painting. Light will need to show through the "Fire", the building windows and the flames.
center masked.JPG

I painted it all black for the mask and then painted the building white over the black.
center white black.JPG

Here is the mask removed and you can see that I have started to pull the masking off exposing the windows etc.
center mask removed.JPG

Here is the building are with all of the masking removed. Can also see the red lane
white building.JPG

#67 7 years ago
Quoted from loren3233:

Looks like a lot of work but coming along nicely. Thank you for the photos and keep us updated.

Thanks.
Yes it is a lot of work but honestly, I thought the playfield was trashed and the night I pulled the mylar off I actually started packing up the machine to take to storage. The next day I just looked at it like an experiment. If its junk then I might as well try and fix it. Nothing to lose

I am expanding on some of my methods and trying new stuff and see how she works.

#68 7 years ago

The lower FIRE insert is actually a large square insert that has artwork on it outside of the black area. This area is notorious for cracking and becoming visible. Also the insert is screwed in the playfield and they show when the artwork comes off. When the mylar came off this area was exposed. The first part of fix was to just paint the outline black and then the other artwork will be filled in.

Here is a photo of the original damage before the restore started.
fire outline damage.jpg

Here is the insert at this stage of the restoration with the black painted on. Still very visible and in need of fixing.
fire outline.jpg

The next phase is to fix the gold areas below the insert. Here is the area masked and sprayed.
yellow leaf.JPG

Here the mask is removed. The color is slightly different but it will match when cleared. The rest of the playfield is sanded to the colors appear a little different. Just like you can see the black paint on the black area because the paint is glossy and the playfield is flat. Once you clear you will not be able to see the black paint.
yellow leaf painted.JPG

Now the orange has to be added. Here is a pic after the orange is painted.
yellow leaf orange.JPG

The rest of the area was fixed by hand painting the yellow and blue on the top of the insert. Here is the final product.
fire outline fix.jpg

#69 7 years ago

Last update for the night.

The last thing do to before the next clear was to paint the upper loop area white so when I place the decal down the colors will be true.

Here is a pic after it was painted. The white area around the insert looks rough but it was not cut perfect because the black insert ring will cover it so it did not need to be perfect.
white loop.JPG

Here is a picture after the second coat of clear. After 24 hours this will be sanded down and ready for more work.
overall progress.JPG

I have been flying all day and tired so I will try and finish my progress up to the current state of the restoration tomorrow afternoon or evening.

#70 7 years ago

Wonderful job! I wish I was one/half that skilled. Nice work!

I just got my new Fire! playfield and plastics from CPR.

Keep up the great work.

#71 7 years ago

I wish I could do repairs like this, keep the pictures coming please

#72 7 years ago

After a good sanding it was time to add the red flames to the shooter lane. I used the same technique with the vinyl masks. Here is it after the mask was removed.
shooter lane red flames.JPG

What is left is to paint the white rings and then the black outlines.

#73 7 years ago

Now it was time to add most of the insert decals. I was not sure how this was gonna work as I have never used the printed insert decals. The insert maker recommended using a product called Rapid Tac to put the decals on. This allows you to move the decal around for perfect alignment and also get all the bubbles out.

Rapid Tac. Marco sells a small bottle of this but I was able to buy this bigger bottle from a local company for a much better price.
rapid tac.JPG

I cleaned the insert areas and then sprayed with RT. I then used transfer tape to pull the decal off the papar. I then sprayed RT on the decal to prevent any dust from sticking to it. I placed it on the insert and lined it up and then worked any air and liquid out and then removed the transfer tape. Results were very good.
insert decal.JPG

Here is where some of the differences in the decals vs the original are noticed. In the original playfield a couple of the inserts have red paint on the insert. You can see from the picture above that the EAST and WEST insert are actually white/clear.

This is a picture of the original and you can see that the art is opaque red.
east west inserts red.jpg

This shows that the new decals are a transparent red. It has a different look. I like it but it is not original. Also the main FIRE insert decal was used by putting a light under the playfield and using the black painted mask to help line everything up right. Turned out great. You can also see how the wear outline around the big FIRE insert is finished. and not visible.
lower insert decals.JPG

Here are the center insert decals. You can also see the "X" numbers in the lower building windows. These will be covered with a decal and only show up when lit. I had a problem with them when I cleared and had to remove them so you will see in future pictures that they are gone. They will be added again later.
center insert decals.JPG

Here are the upper flame insert decals. You will notice that the upper one in not applied. This is because I am getting ready to put the upper horse shoe lane decal on and I want it on before the upper flame since it has a nice black outline. This will be added after the next clear coat.
upper flame inserts.JPG

You can also see how dingy the white areas are compared to the painted horse shoe lane.

#74 7 years ago

Now it was time to paint all the white areas. I want it to look as good as possible. I used a combination of Friskit and vinyl cut mask. I used Friskit to trace around the outer edge. I am not skilled enough to trace around all the black outlines for the holes. I cut all of those areas with the vinyl cutter and I placed them on after I traced the Friskit.

Here is a pic of the slingshot with both the Friskit and the vinyl mask.
kicker white mask.JPG

Here is it ready to be painted.
white masked.JPG

Painted and ready for mask removal
white painted.JPG

I don't have a picture of right after I pulled the mask off but you will be able to see it in the rest of the restoration pics.

I found a partial pic of after the mask came off.
white done.JPG

#75 7 years ago

Looking good so far. It's so much fun to shoot the white.

#76 7 years ago

The large "Rescue Victim" inserts are just like the lower EAST and WEST inserts. The originals are red opaque over a clear/white insert. Here you can see the original. Also notice the wear outside the insert area. The insert is larger than the lighted area of the insert. When the mylar came off it pulled the paint off around it. I have been able to fix the brown area but still have not been able to fix the grey area. I have not been able to match the grey perfect and also you can see that there are no good "lines" that can border a painted area. Without that it is almost impossible to get a smooth transition from painted to non painted. This will come into play later.

You can also see that the flame insert it blue opaque. You can also see how chewed up the colored ring is around the left fire insert.
fire red flame blue origianl.jpg

The insert for the fire decal is orange as you can see here. I guess this makes the flame a richer color. You can also see how the RESCUE VICTIM is a transparent red and not opaque as in the picture above. I like it but once again, it is not original. You can also see the grey area around the RESCUE VICTIM that is giving me fits.
Also note that the ring around the orange insert looks better than above. This is actually a water slide decal used as an experiment to fix the artwork. It was removed after this picture in preparation to fix the blue area. I liked how it looked so it will be used later to fix the ring.
flame insert orange.JPG

Here is the flame insert decal applied. It almost appears that there might be a mistake in printing. The two little blue areas toward the center of the flame are indeed blue as the original. But the outer blue area is a transparent blue.
flame insert.JPG

The interesting part is the left flame insert doesn't have the little blue opaque areas, they are transparent as well. Interesting that they are not the same. The entire blue area should be opaque and since the small area is then I don't see why all of it couldn't be. The other problem is do you know what color blue+orange make?? Yep, GREEN. So now when you light up the insert the flames look real nice but it is surrounded my green. That is not acceptable so I have a fix that will be described later.

#77 7 years ago

Now time to lay down the decal around the Horse Shoe lane.
pre arch decal.JPG

Large decals are hard to deal with and it took me 3 attempts to get it right. The first time I tried to trim around the decal but it was not strong enough around the inserts to work so that one didn't even make it to the playfield. The second one I left the insert areas solid but cut around the lanes. Still was hard to work with and I rubbed a little art work off because of how much I had to work with it. The last one (in the picture) I trimmed around the outer edge and then left the center. Once I applied it the center area over the ladder hole wanted to sag a bit so I trimmed it out and positioned it to dry.
arch decal not trimmed.JPG

After it was dry I trimmed away the excess using a new blade. I also trimmed out the insert. The little white areas in the insert ring will be covered with the insert decal black ring. I am not super happy with the color. It is more of the original. Its not as bad as the pic looks because the old area is sanded and the decal is rich and glossy. It will even out some with clear but there is still a little bit of color difference. I am debating on whether or not to try again with this as I am a perfectionist but a lot of this area is covered as well so it may not be that big a deal. I am gonna go ahead and clear this one and I can always lay another one on if I want to try later.
arch done.JPG

#78 7 years ago

Last thing to fix before the next clear is the Extra Ball area. You can see from the previous pics that a lot of specks of paint were pulled up with the mylar. Some of the grey and black were fixed before the first clear. Now its time to fix the tan, red, orange etc. I am pretty happy with the results as I was worried about this part after the mylar came off.
extra ball touchup.JPG

Now its time for the next clear and sanding.

#79 7 years ago

Here is a shot after the third clear coat. It is finally starting to look like a playfield again.
clear 3.JPG

As I mentioned in the previous posts the insert decals are thicker than regular cast vinyl that I use. After the clear it was obvious the elevation difference. I started by block sanding just the inserts being careful not to hit the edges of the insert and blow through the clear. I sanded as much as I was comfortable with and will see how they look after the next clear. Next I sanded the rest of the playfield and tried to get as close as possible to the inserts being careful again of the edges of the decals. The X numbers in the lower building windows sanded much better as the cast vinyl is very thin. the second and third windows actually sanded flush but there was a hint of thicker areas over the 1st,4th and 5th window. I sanded pretty even so I think there might have been a slight elevation change between the inserts. I didn't feel comfortable sanding them anymore as I didn't want to sand through the clear and expose the vinyl.

#80 7 years ago

Looking good! This always real pleasure to read these threads, please keep info coming

#81 7 years ago

You are really doing an amazing job. I had a Fire! in similar condition that I got rid of in a trade to a fellow pinsider. I had the same exact issue when removing the mylar from mine.

It was the first time I tried taking mylar off and I was so mad because I was very careful and it peeled lots of paint anyway.

Fire cabinet art was originally screen-printed right? What kind of material are you going to print your replacement cabinet art on and do you do any kind of clearcoat over them after you apply them?

I've been thinking about repairing one of my game cabinets but always worried that a decal would "stand off" the surface too much and look goofy.

Keep up the awesome work!

#82 7 years ago

Very impressive. Looks great.

#83 7 years ago
Quoted from MattG:

You are really doing an amazing job. I had a Fire! in similar condition that I got rid of in a trade to a fellow pinsider. I had the same exact issue when removing the mylar from mine.
It was the first time I tried taking mylar off and I was so mad because I was very careful and it peeled lots of paint anyway.
Fire cabinet art was originally screen-printed right? What kind of material are you going to print your replacement cabinet art on and do you do any kind of clearcoat over them after you apply them?
I've been thinking about repairing one of my game cabinets but always worried that a decal would "stand off" the surface too much and look goofy.
Keep up the awesome work!

I am not going to print. I am using colored Cast vinyl. It is pretty thin and has a very good look. I have a buddy that had an F14 and he repainted the cabinet black and then use cut vinyl for the graphics and it looks amazing. Even right up on it, it looks beautiful. The only way to know its vinyl is to rub your finger over it. I don't see this as a big deal at all. In fact I think the cut vinyl looks better than a lot of print because the difference between colors is so defined and sharp with no ink bleed. I will explain the process more when I do the cabinet. I will document it step by step. You can leave it as is or you can clear coat the cabinet and sand it down and you can get it to where there is no "stand off" at all. Its all about personal preference.

#84 7 years ago

Now that the sanding is done it is time to put on the horse shoe insert decals.
arch insert.JPG

Next I needed to finish up the shooter lane. Here is the black area masked along with the two switch lanes on the upper red lane.
shooter black mask.JPG

Shooter lane done.
shooter black done.JPG

Now the upper two fire inserts are applied and you can also see the red lane switch outlines.
upper fire insert.JPG

#85 7 years ago

Here is where I made a mod that some of you may not agree with. I am keeping the machine and I had to make a choice as to leave an area unfinished and worn or make a mod and cover it up. I think it looks acceptable and looks a ton better than the grey area around the insert that was talked about above. I ended up making a thicker black ring around the RESCUE VICTIM. Now it has a cleaner look. I have not cleared over it yet so it is always removable if I magically match the grey paint.
thick black ring.JPG

#86 7 years ago

Almost everything is done now. Saving the most difficult for last. The center building.
As I mentioned earlier, the larger the decal the harder it is to work with. So using black outlines I cut the graphics up into sections as shown below.
building decals.JPG

As you can see, I always print more than one just incase I have trouble with one. You have to print them and let the ink dry. Then you need to clear coat them to seal in ink. So if you screw one up, it takes a bit to print and seal another one. Might as well print several the first time.

Here is the lower building decal applied. The good news is I am very happy with the result. Just a hint of white around the edges which is common with white decals. This is easily fixed with a little black paint.
lower building decal.JPG

The bad news is that remember when I told you about the X numbers above. The 1st, 4th and 5th had slight elevation after sanding. Well as the decal dried those areas started darkening up. I am guessing it was because of lifting slightly as the decal tightened up. I let it sit for a day or so to see if it would go away but it did not change.
lower building shading.JPG

I took the decal off and will shoot clear again and sand the building area again to ensure it is perfectly flat and start the decal process again.

Well, that is status of the playfield as of today. bad news is that I will not be home until NEXT Sunday so no more work will be done. Once I get back home, I plan to clear as soon as possible so I can get to work on the center decals. I also plan on starting on the cabinet pretty soon as well. Plan to sand down and bondo to smooth the surface and then paint the entire cabinet color matched brown. After this I will apply the colored vinyl. I have not decided yet whether I will clear coat the cabinet or not. I cleared my Back to the Future cabinet and I really liked the result.

I have also been working on the custom topper and have all the initial work done. I have not decided if I will document that during the restoration or after it is complete. Sometimes a surprise at the end it fun.

#87 7 years ago

Lonzo,

This is an awe-inspiring thread. Thank you for the meticulous documentation of your process. Just incredible. I've favorited this thread to see the upcoming phases of your restoration and look forward to seeing the final topper surprise.

Best of luck,
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

#88 7 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Lonzo,
This is an awe-inspiring thread. Thank you for the meticulous documentation of your process. Just incredible. I've favorited this thread to see the upcoming phases of your restoration and look forward to seeing the final topper surprise.

Thanks. I hope this info will help others dive in and have fun with a restoration.

3 weeks later
#89 7 years ago

It has been too hot to clearcoat the playfield again. I hope to clear it soon so I can finish it up. I have been working on the cabinet artwork and I have it all cut out and ready to go. This is probably at the limit of detail that you can cut vinyl. In order to cut this detail you have to have a good blade and the cutter and blade set up perfectly. I am really happy with how it turned out and I think it will look sweet when finishes. The design is to have a solid black background and then place all the colors on top of that. With the colors spaced out, the black will show through and create the black outlines you see in the artwork. Doing this means that the maximum number of layers of vinyl will be two even though there are several colors. Here are some of the pictures.

black.JPG

On the tan, I made a mistake in weeding and pulled some of the graphics up on the left side of the main cabinet art. So on the second tan pic you can see that I cut that section again and will just place it on after I do the rest of that side.
tan 1.JPGtan 2.JPG

Here is the red cut and ready to weed.
red pre weed.JPG

After weeding. Fun Fun
red weeded.JPG

Gold for the main cabinet
gold.JPG

Brown for the main cabinet
brown.JPG

Now that I have the artwork done, I will start making patterns to make sure I install them in the exact location and then I will start sanding down and working on the cabinet.

#90 7 years ago

This is just absolutely incredible!

Chris

#91 7 years ago

You have the patience of a saint. I would have already bought two CPR playfields at this point

#92 7 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

You have the patience of a saint. I would have already bought two CPR playfields at this point

I have an idea then. You go ahead and buy two and send one to me.

No, I like to experiment and try and fix things if I can. Not that it wouldn't be easier to buy a playfield though. Knowing that they were coming out I figured I didn't have anything to lose. If I screw it up I would buy one. Hopefully all I am doing will maybe come in handy on a playfield that doesn't have any options but to restore.

These are my machines so I am not pressed for time or worried about putting too much time in vs what I will sell it for. It's all fun. Well I can be frustrating at times. Lol

I appreciate all the kind words from everyone.

#93 7 years ago

Got to finally work on the cabinet. Since I am going to paint the entire cabinet, I decided to sand the entire cabinet down and then fill and sand before I paint it. And yes, I used a respirator because of the chance the paint had lead in it.

Ready to start.
main cab-958.JPG

I sanded the front first. You can see the chunk of wood missing on the bottom that will have to be repaired.
Front sanded-111.JPG

I sanded one side and it took forever. I decided to strip the other side before sanding to see if it worked any easier. Here you can see the stripper working on the finish and the artwork.
side stripper-244.JPG

Got it sanded. Not sure I saved any time so I decided to just sand the rest. Here is the finished lower cabinet. You can also see the poor quality of the wood used in the Fire Cabinets.
main sanded.JPG

You can actually see the knot plug coming out and will have to be glued and filled.
main plug.JPG

The backbox was a lot easier to sand than the main cabinet. Maybe the finish was thinner. Also after sanding, you can see work that has been done previously.
backbox work-28.JPG

Here is the backbox fully sanded.
backbox.JPG

I hope to be able to get the cabinet ready to paint in a few days. I would like to clear the playfield and paint the cabinet on the same day to save time putting up and taking down the paint booth.

#94 7 years ago

Got the first layer of wood filler applied and sanded. Here are some pictures.

Several areas on the backbox need attention and it will probably take several sessions to get it done.
backbox.JPG

After first sanding,
back sanded.JPG

Several areas needed attention on the main cabinet.
main side.JPG

Much smoother
side sanded.JPG

The corner was completely missing so I built a new one using a two part epoxy putty. It is much stronger.
new corner.JPG

After sanding, I have a new corner. I will probably but a little bondo or wood filler on to fill any imperfections.
corner sanded.JPG

Damage to the front below the coin door.
lower front damage.JPG

Used the same epoxy putty to build a new section.
lower filled.JPG

Sanded. Once again I will put some bondo or wood filler just to make sure it is perfectly smooth.
front sanded.JPG

#95 7 years ago

Hey Lonzo,

It's been a while since I checked-in here, but man, I'm glad to see you are still at it. Things are looking great and you are as ambitious as ever. I can't believe some of that registration work you are about to attempt on this cabinet art. Absolute insanity in the best possible way. Eagerly awaiting more updates over here.

Special Request: You mentioned...

Quoted from Lonzo:

putting up and taking down the paint booth

...any chance of getting some photos and documentation of this too?

Best of luck with your continued progress on this beauty!

Sincerely,
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

#96 7 years ago

Finally put the first coat of primer on the cabinet today. Overall went pretty well. Of course you think you have it all ready and then when you prime it you see all the areas that need a little work. I will have to spot fix a few areas and then prime again before the first coat of brown paint.
backbox front.JPGbackbox back.JPGcab.JPG

#97 7 years ago

Nice work. Been following from day one.

Look forward to more updates.

Thanks for posting.

#98 7 years ago

Love the game and very much loving your restoration, great stuff.

#99 7 years ago

This cabinet is giving me fits. The wood on this thing is crap. I sanded down the areas I filled and found a few more areas that needed attention. My perfectionism is making this a challenge.

I had a few nail hole areas on the backbox that at one time were filled but showed with the primer on so I added filler and sanded those down. Also, the top piece of wood was cracked in the back almost the entire way across. In other words, if up put your hand inside and lifted up the top to move the backbox, the wood would separate. So I used a nail gun and fastened it back down so I had to fill those holes as well. Here are a couple pictures of the backbox with some of the areas already sanded and the second application of wood filler applied to a few other areas.

backbox left.JPGbackbox right.JPG

The main cab needed some attention on the knot "football" It was filled before priming but still needed a little work. That was filled and sanded. I saw several cracks in the wood that I did not see before priming so those were filled as well. The back also needed attention due to a chunk missing.
cab back.JPGcab right.JPG

The wood was "soft" up by the front leg on the left side so I dug it out and filled it in.
cab left.JPG

I hope to get the rest of it sanded and finish the priming today.

#100 7 years ago

Finally done with the woodwork. Everything is sanded and primed. The primer has a grainy finish which is normal. After it has cured I will sand with 320 to make it smooth and ready for paint.

front.JPG
back left.JPG
back right.JPG
right main.JPG
left main.JPG

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