Quoted from Digduglus:

Funny you mention that Chuck, I just turned the power on and first thing was "Adjust Switch 27, Left horse" so go figure. Toyota, I'd be more than happy to purchase a set of those if you can hold them for me till mid February when I get paid next.
Other than that, restoration has begun- We started simple, by replacing the coin box lock, and tightening the set screw in the ladder ramp motor which was causing the ladder not to raise most of the time. Now just waiting on the boxes of bulbs from pinballlife to begin replacing those (both bulbs for the cylinder are burnt out) I did notice one major thing I need some ideas on how to fix - The plastic connector for the right side of buildings near the ladder ramp is busted and missing - which makes the right row of buildings extremely flimsy and bounce up and down whenever the ball goes near because it's not connected to the screw that keeps it stable. (I really don't want to risk busting up some of the plastic) Any thoughts/suggestions on how to fix that specific issue?

20160127_214732_(resized).jpg20160127_214724_(resized).jpg

Quoted from BENETNATH:

I'll give a try, but it seems that many Fire! owners are raising the same question ^^

Quoted from BENETNATH:

Thank you, then my fire has an issue, as they are not turned on by the all lamps test.
I was wondering if they were controlled directly, so now, i know that i have an issue to fix

Quoted from TheBrewhouse:

I had these same issues when i got my Fire. The majority of the windows actually light up during the coil test not the all lamps test. That had me stumped for awhile after changing all the bulbs.
To get rid of the buzzing noise i removed the sound board then added nylon washers under the board as i was screwing it back down. There is another thread about this approach and it worked for me.

Quoted from Digduglus:

Ok folks, kind of stumped at this point on fixing my fire table and thought I'd throw this out there to see if anybody has an idea.
We have resoldered the wire to the left rescue lights and got the flashers and A side mechanicals working again. However, our C side (right side) mechanicals are not working at all - the bell, right up and down ramp, right ball lock kicker, etc. anything that is supposed to be on C side. Even more interestingly is that when the coil test is run, the A side will go in place of the C side, so for example, when running through the coil test, the Knocker will sound when it is supposed to, then instead of the bell ringing, the knocker will sound again. Weird. We replaced ALL of the fuses in the table, so we're kind of at a loss for what could be wrong. I believe that maybe we put a C side wire somewhere it shouldn't be which might explain the C side firing when the A side goes, or there's a short, or there's something else.
Any thoughts/comments/ideas/prayers would be helpful. I can post pics later if anybody needs.
Thank you!

Quoted from Digduglus:

so we're under the PF now, what board? where exactly is it? is there a switch we need to flip? Just wondering what we should be looking for

Quoted from megalo17:

I could use some help adjusting the ramps. After I shopped it I can't get the right ramp to sit flush when it's lowered. It's 1 or 2 mm high, which sometimes kicks the ball back. Is there a trick to it?

Quoted from chuckwurt:

How do you adjust it? Can you adjust it from above the playfield? Or is there something that needs adjusted from under the playfield?

Quoted from futurepinhead:

Is this switch right? Seems like it would break too easily.

Quoted from woody76:

looking for the plastic piece in the pictures. It is on the left side of playfield.

Quoted from MT45:

Anyone know why Williams specified the tapered post bumpers in this game? Or any game for that matter. Does it help with air balls? Is it just for appearance?
I’ve added red sleeves to mine but wondering what the purpose of these was ...

Quoted from McSquid:

Has anyone else tried Comet flame LED bulbs in their Fire? They don't seem to work very well in any of the controlled lamp sockets. They flash too fast and the effect is lost. It's a shame. The literal fire inserts would have looked great flickering. They still work correctly in GI though. So I still have some flames on the playfield.

Quoted from rlbohon3:

I'm gradually bringing some life to my newly acquired Fire. Battery holder was partially missing; one of the contacts had some corrosion but otherwise no evidence of corrosion on the rest of the board. I removed the contacts and soldered in a lithium battery. Display is bad, at least the upper two displays are dead. A new Pinscore display is on it's way. It now plays and the next bugs started to surface. I found the right side VUK really gummed up. Solenoid, plunger and sleeve were fine, but the pivot had what seemed like solidified grease. Took it apart, cleaned it up and gave it a very light touch of oil. Same problem on the right ramp lift mechanism. They work fine now. Half of the GI wasn't working; found a blown 5A fuse. Right flipper is in bad shape; bushing cracked. New parts to rebuild flippers, new poly bands, etc... on order. Can't wait to get it working great.
So one issue my game still has is regarding the playfield mylar. Over some of the inserts, it's lifting. The area near the ladder is also lifting a bit. I'm trying to decide whether or not to remove the mylar or leave it alone. I fear pulling paint but am trying to get a feel for how successful it is to remove it with an upside down air can/freeze removal method. And then does naptha do an effective job cleaning the old adhesive off the playfield for this game? Just curious if any of you fellow Fire owners went through this and how did it go? BTW, if I do end up taking the mylar off, my thoughts are to just keep it well waxed. It will be a home use only game here on.

Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Oof, removed one of the posts that holds down the flex steel over the right ramp to find the plastic broken where the ramp screws into the playfield. The flex steel must have been holding it together somehow.
Doesn't seem like a readily available part. Will have to cook up something in the lab. I doubt epoxying it back together will fair to well., maybe cutting a piece of lexan and riveting it to the bottom of the ramp???

Quoted from Scrimmbo:

I did see that thread, awesome work btw. These are the ramps I was talking about (using your picture). It looks like you got new replacements somewhere? I've seen them listed on a few sites but they are all sold out.
What I was thinking of doing is pretty close to what you did with the upper houses. basically cutting a piece of lexan, and placing it underneath the ramp. The only nice thing about where the ramps break is that it is somewhat hidden by the flex steel that sits on top of it, so it doesn't have to be visually perfect to work. I'd still have to drill out the rivets on the ramp piece, which kind of scares me because of the possibility of cracking the ramp in the process.[quoted image]