Fire!
Williams, 1987Quoted from Jr99svt:Its not really a switch, it's just a ball stop to keep balls from entering the lock area[quoted image]
You legend, thanks man! I wasn’t sure if it was part of the game to sneakily lock a ball from the playfield (that has happened a few times) but that makes perfect sense. It’s also a bit of a relief as it means I don’t need to fiddle around with wiring.
Really appreciate your reply. Cheers!
Has anyone ever hit there left flipper and the display pops up and says That Hurt? Mine started doing that and the game rests! Any help would
Be much appreciated!!!
Quoted from Newhollend2:Has anyone ever hit there left flipper and the display pops up and says That Hurt? Mine started doing that and the game rests! Any help would
Be much appreciated!!!
either one of your tilt switch contacts are too close, or its a switch matrix issue.
Hi everyone,
Hope you’re all staying safe, the virus is just ramping up in Australia and because I own a venue it looks like I might have extra time for pinball!
Just thought I’d send through this link, I reckon I’ve found a substitute In Australia for the elusive SW-1A-124 switch (haven’t installed it yet though ). It’ll need a bit of tweaking but should hopefully do the trick.
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/sw-1a-120.html
I’ve stripped and waxed the playfield and it’s looking pretty good methinks, see below.
Thanks again for the help, you’ve all been great, keep washing those hands! Z
1DC45595-B741-449A-9D94-7DB443CC6C5D (resized).jpeg
Quoted from MT45:This image may help. I was adjusting mine and discovered these screws on the sides that give the ability to move the steel “lip” up and down. Sounds like the ball may be getting hung up there?[quoted image]
Well, now that I have all the free time in the world I was finally able to take a look at this. The front back adjustment on my center ramp was all the way back and it looks like that's the best bet for getting the ball into the loop ramp. The rear lip of my center ramp was also underneath the plastic like yours, surprised that hasn't damaged the plastic over all these years, but perhaps it's supposed to be that way? Regardless I put the metal lip above the plastic and we'll see if that helps.
After taking apart this mechanism it seems like a bit of a design flaw, if the ball has the power to get through the doors but not into the loop it's going to get stuck there every time.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/94145
Leftover new Fire plastics. I had 2 Games, and 2 new sets of Plastics, This is whats left that I didnt use
And the still Good Used ones....
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/94146
Has or does anyone know if you can get any of the buildings? My are shot and they look like they got to hot and are all disfigured.
Quoted from Newhollend2:Has or does anyone know if you can get any of the buildings? My are shot and they look like they got to hot and are all disfigured.
I don't believe anyone has reproed them
Well that just sucks!! Thanks for the reply! You think if I take a heat gun to the buildings I would be able to re shape them?
Quoted from Newhollend2:Well that just sucks!! Thanks for the reply! You think if I take a heat gun to the buildings I would be able to re shape them?
My fire was actually in a fire, one of my buildings is slightly deformed, but isn't broken, alot folks have not choice but to bandage up broken buildings best they can, last time a NOS right building came up on eBay it sold for more than 500
Quoted from Newhollend2:Has or does anyone know if you can get any of the buildings?
Side buildings no.. when I bought mine 6 years ago (before I knew the value) I had a NOS right ramp I sold on ebay for $200. Someone at chicago expo 2 years ago had a whole bag of the rear building (at the lift ramp). Marco also "had" them but they seem to be out of stock. If you need that one, I still have my spare
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-11501
firebuilding1 (resized).jpgfirebuilding2 (resized).jpgQuoted from toyotaboy:Side buildings no.. when I bought mine 6 years ago (before I knew the value) I had a NOS right ramp I sold on ebay for $200. Someone at chicago expo 2 years ago had a whole bag of the rear building (at the lift ramp). Marco also "had" them but they seem to be out of stock. If you need that one, I still have my spare
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-11501[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for the info! My rear building isn't in the greatest shape but for as rare as these buildings are I would hate to replace it when someone else probably could use it more then me!
Quoted from toyotaboy:Side buildings no.. when I bought mine 6 years ago (before I knew the value) I had a NOS right ramp I sold on ebay for $200. Someone at chicago expo 2 years ago had a whole bag of the rear building (at the lift ramp). Marco also "had" them but they seem to be out of stock. If you need that one, I still have my spare
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-11501[quoted image][quoted image]
Here’s what mine look like.
1F61A48D-FE56-44A2-B6D3-B134EDDD40D2 (resized).jpeg67E43E7A-1117-4D58-9F2E-5555CFC31001 (resized).jpeg6C92D7B6-EFB0-422B-BAD7-30662FB93B68 (resized).jpegBe nice if we could 3D print the buildings, get some new decals made... I would think it’s possible and would look decent. I might try that while I am rebuilding mine. Doing a fill play field swap so the parts will be off.
Quoted from dfester007:Be nice if we could 3D print the buildings, get some new decals made... I would think it’s possible and would look decent. I might try that while I am rebuilding mine. Doing a fill play field swap so the parts will be off.
Thought about that too.. but
1. You couldn't do decals because they wouldn't stick to the sides very well (you'd want to model in all the windows anyway)
2. You'd need some PETG for the portion the ball rides on.
3. You'd have a LOT of wasted material for the supports
4. Most printers wouldn't handle a piece this long, so you'd have to print it in sections and join them.
I haven't watched the video but my wife said she watched a TNT video with Todd Tuckey and he mentioned someone was going to be making the buildings
Quoted from Puffdanny:I haven't watched the video but my wife said she watched a TNT video with Todd Tuckey and he mentioned someone was going to be making the buildings
I sure hope so! I would
Think there is enough for buildings to make It worth it.
Has anyone used any of the new CPR playfields? I want a gold but no longer around. Anyone have a silver or Bronze that can suggest if they’re not too bad?
Thanks!
Quoted from toyotaboy:The upper ramps take a beating from the ball swinging around and hitting the flat wall. Check how badly the hole is elongated where it mounts to the post spacer on the playfield, then consider buying supports to prevent further damage.
http://www.randompinball.com/wfire
Anyone have interest in toyotaboy ramp brackets? He will need a minimum of 9 to make them.
1. dmacy
2.
3.
Quoted from dmacy:Anyone have interest in toyotaboy ramp brackets? He will need a minimum of 9 to make them.
1. dmacy
2.
3.
Those bracket supports are amazing. I've owned several sets. He usually makes one batch a year.
Hi Fireys,
Hope you’ve all been safe and sane.
My project is coming along nicely, my brackets are being cut today (thanks again toyotaboy ) and I’m very glad as the ball does all sorts of wacky things on those knackered plastics!
Hoping someone can help. Primarily, can someone please confirm that there is a lane change feature on this game? Can’t find anything in the manual but I get an error Message about “lane change” switches 23 and 24. I’m assuming it will move the “Put Out Fire” light....
If so I am on the right track but haven’t got my lane change switches to work yet. My machine came only with one left side lane change switch (stacked on the EOS switch). I bought two new ones and have installed them but they aren’t working I copied the wiring exactly when I changed/added a right side switch but I get the feeling it may have been incorrectly installed In the first place! I’ve already had this problem with another coil
I’m thinking it may be the diode that is around the wrong way but am too thick to understand the schematic. Can anyone please confirm and/or possibly take pictures of their flipper mechs so I can check the wiring? I’ve put pics of mine below. Cheers!
2E9D00E2-A94F-406D-81BD-5E5336ECB7AC (resized).jpeg577140C4-80C7-4940-9CB1-CF66A49D52C2 (resized).jpeg65F88A2A-C8E9-41D1-87E7-C16004A055F0 (resized).jpeg850B4FD1-77AD-42F9-9F98-672B96DFC76A (resized).jpeg8B761427-8B34-4EFD-A08C-FE4C550C2351 (resized).jpeg
No lane change. I think it’s for initials only.
I would cut off the excess of the capacitor wiring and make sure the whole exposed wire has heat shrink on it. Doesn’t matter which way you install the capacitor (yellow thing)
Also try and find the right size switch stack screws.
Quoted from chuckwurt:No lane change. I think it’s for initials only.
I would cut off the excess of the capacitor wiring and make sure the whole exposed wire has heat shrink on it. Doesn’t matter which way you install the capacitor (yellow thing)
Also try and find the right size switch stack screws.
The lanes change based on the slingshots being hit, don't they?
Quoted from Scrimmbo:The lanes change based on the slingshots being hit, don't they?
Yep.
Quoted from chuckwurt:No lane change. I think it’s for initials only.
I would cut off the excess of the capacitor wiring and make sure the whole exposed wire has heat shrink on it. Doesn’t matter which way you install the capacitor (yellow thing)
Also try and find the right size switch stack screws.
Thanks chuckwurt I had a feeling that was the case, good to know I’m not missing out on (what would have been) a very neat feature. Still a bit perplexed as to why it says they are faulty though
Good advice re the switch mech, I ordered a bunch of parts a while back and made do during my isolation, they do indeed need tidying up...Cheers!
Just a quick follow up (and another question ) to say that I solved the issue! The previous owner had attempted to fix the one lane change switch and messed up the wiring. I looked at other switches, thought about it logically, checked the manual a million times and now it all works.I had the same issue with the right horseshoe switch and went through a similar process.
Now my issue is with multiball. After the first ball drains multiball ends even if there are two balls still in play.
I have read that the trough switches are usually the culprit, can anyone please advise:
a) If they agree that it could be the issue
b) What is the optimum way of setting up the switches is? I am unsure if they should be extra responsive...
Cheers!
UPDATE:
After doing some testing last night (drinking and playing!) I’ve narrowed down the nitty gritty details:
Basically when you achieve multiball and it spits out the three balls you can flip around wildly or trap up and shoot no problem. However, once you have lost a ball the multiball mode will time out if you don’t continue hitting switches quickly. If you trap up and shoot methodically with two balls in play it doesn’t take long for the mode to time out leaving you with two balls outside of the multiball sequence.
I have also noticed that if there is a stuck ball the game is pretty quick to spit another one out so I’m wondering if it’s a switch timing issue or something like that? In saying that multiball finishes ALOT quicker than that.
I’ve had a bit of a play with the trough switches and they don’t register as closed when there are no balls loaded. All three seem to be working correctly as well......
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers.
I have been working on my Fire system 11A MPU and its driving me crazy! I purchased a rottendog MPU board and it seems to work fine but the sound quality sucks, So I had my original board repaired and it work for a couple hours and it fries the 2n6427 Transistors in the switch matrix!!! Does anyone have any suggestions??? The other board works fine, I'm Baffled! any help would be much appreciated!
Quoted from dmacy:Anyone have interest in toyotaboy ramp brackets? He will need a minimum of 9 to make them.
1. dmacy
2.
3.
Bump! I guess I have a long way to go! I have a new CPR gold and plastics so about to do a full swap on. Hoping to get some good pics and some love to this underrated machine.
Quoted from dmacy:Bump! I guess I have a long way to go! I have a new CPR gold and plastics so about to do a full swap on. Hoping to get some good pics and some love to this underrated machine.
Another bump. Moving along with the swap so was hoping a few more would be interested?
Quoted from dmacy:Another bump. Moving along with the swap so was hoping a few more would be interested?
Quoted from dmacy:Anyone have interest in toyotaboy ramp brackets? He will need a minimum of 9 to make them.
1. dmacy
2.
3.
Another bump. I’m doing a playfield swap now if anyone hasn’t seen. I could use a nice translite if anyone has one too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fire-refreshteration-pf-swap-and-a-general-spruce-up
Quoted from dmacy:Anyone have interest in toyotaboy ramp brackets? He will need a minimum of 9 to make them.
1. dmacy
2.
3.
Bumping this up unsuccessfully!
Hello New to the Club but had my FIRE for over 10 years - this week its at a shop getting shopped - it has never been 100% functional but I love this
machine -
the fire roll in the base has never turned - and the fire plug has never worked right - It will get all LEDs and we are looking at the fire LEDs for a couple spots
the info on here is amazing - wish it was as active as some years ago - keep pins alive -
Scott in Merritt island Florida
I’m wrapping my machine up as well and ironically not getting the flame motor (or the lamps inside) to turn on either. I have taken them both out and tested with my makeshift transformer. Transistors test fine and no voltage at the connector. Have to check if the relay board is getting voltages as I’m suspecting that may be the issue (relay).
Quoted from dmacy:I’m wrapping my machine up as well and ironically not getting the flame motor (or the lamps inside) to turn on either. I have taken them both out and tested with my makeshift transformer. Transistors test fine and no voltage at the connector. Have to check if the relay board is getting voltages as I’m suspecting that may be the issue (relay).
Can anyone confirm this wiring for the flames tube relay is correct? It appears to be from my tear down pics. When grounding the drive wired I’m getting no relay movement.
2C546469-6570-49AB-920A-F74D94CBE31E (resized).jpegQuoted from dmacy:Can anyone confirm this wiring for the flames tube relay is correct? It appears to be from my tear down pics. When grounding the drive wired I’m getting no relay movement.
[quoted image]
Sorry I saw this yesterday and forgot to take a look and I even have mine in the middle of the room glass off. I'll take a look when I get home.
The bottom one has 2 green or appears to be the same wire just split at the board one end goes up to a connector with 2 yellow wires directly hooked to the flame motor the other goes down into a jungle of wires I'm assuming are leading back to the boards in the back box.
20200728_155738 (resized).jpg20200728_160430 (resized).jpg20200728_160501 (resized).jpgThank you much Puffdanny !
That helps confirm everything. I did swap out the other relay and it works! So I have a bad relay and the pics were a huge help!
Now I just need to fix a couple things on the board from swapping the wires on the left down coil. Waiting for them and the relay. Almost there...
Updating the wait list for ramp support brackets:
1. dmacy -1
2. porsche4me - 1
3. finnflash - 1
4. jkroeck25 - 1
Added over 4 years ago:5. truemagoo102 - 1 set
Added over 4 years ago:NewPinInTown - 1 set
Quoted from toyotaboy:Updating the wait list for ramp support brackets:
1. dmacy -1
2. porsche4me - 1
3. finnflash - 1
What are the odds of making them in Brass?
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:What are the odds of making them in Brass?
i can create them out of any material (and brass would thread well). Brass will just be more expensive (and need polishing since it'll tarnish over time). Based on what I'm seeing for raw material, it's at least twice the cost, which would increase a set from $50 to $100.
Quoted from toyotaboy:i can create them out of any material (and brass would thread well). Brass will just be more expensive (and need polishing since it'll tarnish over time). Based on what I'm seeing for raw material, it's at least twice the cost, which would increase a set from $50 to $100.
Its sounds Nice. But, how would I get 10 people to want to do this?
The list would take 5 years to fill.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-fire-club/page/14?hl=scrimmbo and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Adelaide
Fairfield, CA