(Topic ID: 78414)

Fire! club - save my baby! /\/\/


By toyotaboy

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 630 posts
  • 107 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by jfrazie
  • Topic is favorited by 48 Pinsiders

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There are 630 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.
#601 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

If you are unhappy with your mylar but dont want to risk removing it you can buff the mylar as if it were clearcoat. trim any fraying edges, then hit it with the buffer until its not cloudy anymore. takes about an hour to get a nice shine with no cloud.

Good tip, thanks!

1 week later
#602 4 months ago

I just rebuilt the flippers w/ new bushings, EOS switches, links/springs/stops, and poly-bands. I'm currently away on vacation and not near my game to check, but I noticed after the rebuild that the flippers seemed a little weak. The balls don't always make it up the ramps and they feel a bit sluggish overall. My game is new to me and needing an overhaul so I'm not sure how strong they were to begin with. I suspect the EOS switches need some adjustment to keep the coils pushing hard longer during the stroke, but was also thinking about swapping the coils. Both are the standard 11630 standard red coil (one was replaced at one time with some generic wrapper but still says 11630 other might be original), but my question is what is the coil of choice to use? Should I stick with the 11630 red's or would the 15411 orange or 11629 blue make any sense to try? I'm trying to end up with a flipper that throws the ball with enough authority but not too much. I suspect I should stick with the 11630's but wanted to see what others have tried.

#603 4 months ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

but was also thinking about swapping the coils.

Weak flippers will never be a coil issue. It’s EOS, power to the flippers or slop in them. I’d check everything else but the coils.

#604 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Weak flippers will never be a coil issue. It’s EOS, power to the flippers or slop in them. I’d check everything else but the coils.

Thanks Erik. Will check them out. They just seemed a little weak, but I’m used to my Firepower and Getaway flipping pretty solid. Thanks again.

1 week later
#605 3 months ago

I'm looking for a Fire Champagne edition. If anybody knows of someone looking to sell theirs, please shoot me a pm.
Thanks.

#606 3 months ago

My vendor has down, brackets on order should be in this week

1 week later
#607 3 months ago

parts are in. PM me your info, let me know if you want plain cleared or black.

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#608 3 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

parts are in. PM me your info, let me know if you want plain cleared or black.[quoted image]

Special Thanks to Toyotaboy for making these brackets again.
For those of us that have been in pinball 20 years plus you may not realize the small things that keep our games running.
Ive been a Fire fan since it came out and remember its days in arcades.
30 plus years later, keep the bell ringing!!

#610 3 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

6 sets spoken for, just 3 left.

Got mine today. They look awesome!! Thanks for a great product.

#611 3 months ago

Hey Gang. Don't leave Toyotaboy hanging.
3 sets of brackets left!!

3 weeks later
#612 72 days ago

Picking up my Fire! This week. Looking forward to having it in the collection. Wife loves this game.

#613 72 days ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

6 sets spoken for, just 3 left.

Received my 2, one of which is going to a friend today. Thank you.

#614 70 days ago

She's home!!

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1 month later
#615 10 days ago

Joining the Fire! club. The one I picked up has a very nice playfield, some minor wear around the horseshoe, and a little bubbling on the mylar, but otherwise really nice. The left and right upper plastics are pretty F'd, somewhat bummed to find that they are basically impossible to replace. I epoxied the left side, to hopefully prevent a pretty sizable crack from reaching the buildings. It turned out pretty ugly unfortunately, tried to sand and buff the excees epoxy, with not great results, but hey, maybe the buildings will be safe. Would very much like to get a set of those protectors.

#616 10 days ago

^^^^ where are your pictures?

#617 9 days ago

I added a couple spotlights to lighten playfield darkness and a trough light tied to the fireplug light. Still fighting some glare from the back glass but waaay better. Feels about right. Thoughts?

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#618 9 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

^^^^ where are your pictures?

Well, she's in pieces right now. In the middle of doing a rubber ring kit and adjusting some switches. Once I get her in one piece I'll post some pictures! :p

#619 9 days ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Well, she's in pieces right now. In the middle of doing a rubber ring kit and adjusting some switches. Once I get her in one piece I'll post some pictures! :p

Before and after pictures always welcome!

#620 7 days ago

question for you guys. I've noticed the plastic nuts that hold down a lot of the plastics don't really seem to tighten down very good. Should I replace them with new plastic nuts? Or go with lock nuts, which I have a pile of?

#621 7 days ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

question for you guys. I've noticed the plastic nuts that hold down a lot of the plastics don't really seem to tighten down very good. Should I replace them with new plastic nuts? Or go with lock nuts, which I have a pile of?

New ones, there cheap. The threads get old.

#622 7 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

New ones, there cheap. The threads get old.

I’ve wondered the same thing about the plastic acorn nuts not quite tightening down enough to hold the plastics firmly. I haven’t replaced any yet with new ones, so I don’t know from experience if new ones would tighten the plastics down better, but it seems like the acorns are bottoming out on the studs just before tightening down on the plastics.

#623 7 days ago

Plastic nuts strip after being removed/installed several times and they definitely do not like being overtorqued.

#624 6 days ago

Oof, removed one of the posts that holds down the flex steel over the right ramp to find the plastic broken where the ramp screws into the playfield. The flex steel must have been holding it together somehow.

Doesn't seem like a readily available part. Will have to cook up something in the lab. I doubt epoxying it back together will fair to well., maybe cutting a piece of lexan and riveting it to the bottom of the ramp???

#625 6 days ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Oof, removed one of the posts that holds down the flex steel over the right ramp to find the plastic broken where the ramp screws into the playfield. The flex steel must have been holding it together somehow.
Doesn't seem like a readily available part. Will have to cook up something in the lab. I doubt epoxying it back together will fair to well., maybe cutting a piece of lexan and riveting it to the bottom of the ramp???

Here is how I fixed mine. I think it is similar to what you are referring too.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-fire-restoration/page/5#post-2904538

#626 6 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Here is how I fixed mine. I think it is similar to what you are referring too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-fire-restoration/page/5#post-2904538

I did see that thread, awesome work btw. These are the ramps I was talking about (using your picture). It looks like you got new replacements somewhere? I've seen them listed on a few sites but they are all sold out.

What I was thinking of doing is pretty close to what you did with the upper houses. basically cutting a piece of lexan, and placing it underneath the ramp. The only nice thing about where the ramps break is that it is somewhat hidden by the flex steel that sits on top of it, so it doesn't have to be visually perfect to work. I'd still have to drill out the rivets on the ramp piece, which kind of scares me because of the possibility of cracking the ramp in the process.

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#627 5 days ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

I did see that thread, awesome work btw. These are the ramps I was talking about (using your picture). It looks like you got new replacements somewhere? I've seen them listed on a few sites but they are all sold out.
What I was thinking of doing is pretty close to what you did with the upper houses. basically cutting a piece of lexan, and placing it underneath the ramp. The only nice thing about where the ramps break is that it is somewhat hidden by the flex steel that sits on top of it, so it doesn't have to be visually perfect to work. I'd still have to drill out the rivets on the ramp piece, which kind of scares me because of the possibility of cracking the ramp in the process.[quoted image]

Gotcha. Makes sense. Mine looked exactly like that. I had a new plastics set so I replaced them. With the flaps in place, are the ramps loose? If the flaps cover the damage and they are tight then you could probably leave them. Any pics?

#628 5 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Gotcha. Makes sense. Mine looked exactly like that. I had a new plastics set so I replaced them. With the flaps in place, are the ramps loose? If the flaps cover the damage and they are tight then you could probably leave them. Any pics?

That's the problem, I noticed the ramp was super loose after I had removed and replaced the flex steel. For now, I've epoxied the ramp back together, but I'm not confident that it will hold.

#629 2 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I would be interested in this too as mine doesn't sit high enough when in the up position and causes the ball to sometime get stuck or jump off the ramp when I'm trying to lock a ball.

What I did to lift the ramp on the right side was to take the front screw out of the plate that holds the rod that lifts the ramp and put a washer underneath that which in turns lifts the ramp a little bit more.

#630 1 day ago

Thought I'd leave this here for you guys. Not mine.
75$ for a fully populated Fire! play field.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=460701

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There are 630 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.

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