(Topic ID: 78414)

Fire! club - save my baby! /\/\/

By toyotaboy

10 years ago


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There are 1,045 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 21.
#601 4 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

If you are unhappy with your mylar but dont want to risk removing it you can buff the mylar as if it were clearcoat. trim any fraying edges, then hit it with the buffer until its not cloudy anymore. takes about an hour to get a nice shine with no cloud.

Good tip, thanks!

1 week later
#602 4 years ago

I just rebuilt the flippers w/ new bushings, EOS switches, links/springs/stops, and poly-bands. I'm currently away on vacation and not near my game to check, but I noticed after the rebuild that the flippers seemed a little weak. The balls don't always make it up the ramps and they feel a bit sluggish overall. My game is new to me and needing an overhaul so I'm not sure how strong they were to begin with. I suspect the EOS switches need some adjustment to keep the coils pushing hard longer during the stroke, but was also thinking about swapping the coils. Both are the standard 11630 standard red coil (one was replaced at one time with some generic wrapper but still says 11630 other might be original), but my question is what is the coil of choice to use? Should I stick with the 11630 red's or would the 15411 orange or 11629 blue make any sense to try? I'm trying to end up with a flipper that throws the ball with enough authority but not too much. I suspect I should stick with the 11630's but wanted to see what others have tried.

#603 4 years ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

but was also thinking about swapping the coils.

Weak flippers will never be a coil issue. It’s EOS, power to the flippers or slop in them. I’d check everything else but the coils.

#604 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Weak flippers will never be a coil issue. It’s EOS, power to the flippers or slop in them. I’d check everything else but the coils.

Thanks Erik. Will check them out. They just seemed a little weak, but I’m used to my Firepower and Getaway flipping pretty solid. Thanks again.

1 week later
#605 4 years ago

I'm looking for a Fire Champagne edition. If anybody knows of someone looking to sell theirs, please shoot me a pm.
Thanks.

#606 4 years ago

My vendor has down, brackets on order should be in this week

1 week later
#607 4 years ago

parts are in. PM me your info, let me know if you want plain cleared or black.

20190803_163751 (resized).jpg20190803_163751 (resized).jpg
#608 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

parts are in. PM me your info, let me know if you want plain cleared or black.[quoted image]

Special Thanks to Toyotaboy for making these brackets again.
For those of us that have been in pinball 20 years plus you may not realize the small things that keep our games running.
Ive been a Fire fan since it came out and remember its days in arcades.
30 plus years later, keep the bell ringing!!

#610 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

6 sets spoken for, just 3 left.

Got mine today. They look awesome!! Thanks for a great product.

#611 4 years ago

Hey Gang. Don't leave Toyotaboy hanging.
3 sets of brackets left!!

3 weeks later
#612 4 years ago

Picking up my Fire! This week. Looking forward to having it in the collection. Wife loves this game.

#613 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

6 sets spoken for, just 3 left.

Received my 2, one of which is going to a friend today. Thank you.

#614 4 years ago

She's home!!

Screenshot_20190904-220327_Messenger (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190904-220327_Messenger (resized).jpg
1 month later
#615 4 years ago

Joining the Fire! club. The one I picked up has a very nice playfield, some minor wear around the horseshoe, and a little bubbling on the mylar, but otherwise really nice. The left and right upper plastics are pretty F'd, somewhat bummed to find that they are basically impossible to replace. I epoxied the left side, to hopefully prevent a pretty sizable crack from reaching the buildings. It turned out pretty ugly unfortunately, tried to sand and buff the excees epoxy, with not great results, but hey, maybe the buildings will be safe. Would very much like to get a set of those protectors.

#616 4 years ago

^^^^ where are your pictures?

#617 4 years ago

I added a couple spotlights to lighten playfield darkness and a trough light tied to the fireplug light. Still fighting some glare from the back glass but waaay better. Feels about right. Thoughts?

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#618 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

^^^^ where are your pictures?

Well, she's in pieces right now. In the middle of doing a rubber ring kit and adjusting some switches. Once I get her in one piece I'll post some pictures! :p

#619 4 years ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Well, she's in pieces right now. In the middle of doing a rubber ring kit and adjusting some switches. Once I get her in one piece I'll post some pictures! :p

Before and after pictures always welcome!

#620 4 years ago

question for you guys. I've noticed the plastic nuts that hold down a lot of the plastics don't really seem to tighten down very good. Should I replace them with new plastic nuts? Or go with lock nuts, which I have a pile of?

#621 4 years ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

question for you guys. I've noticed the plastic nuts that hold down a lot of the plastics don't really seem to tighten down very good. Should I replace them with new plastic nuts? Or go with lock nuts, which I have a pile of?

New ones, there cheap. The threads get old.

#622 4 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

New ones, there cheap. The threads get old.

I’ve wondered the same thing about the plastic acorn nuts not quite tightening down enough to hold the plastics firmly. I haven’t replaced any yet with new ones, so I don’t know from experience if new ones would tighten the plastics down better, but it seems like the acorns are bottoming out on the studs just before tightening down on the plastics.

#623 4 years ago

Plastic nuts strip after being removed/installed several times and they definitely do not like being overtorqued.

#624 4 years ago

Oof, removed one of the posts that holds down the flex steel over the right ramp to find the plastic broken where the ramp screws into the playfield. The flex steel must have been holding it together somehow.

Doesn't seem like a readily available part. Will have to cook up something in the lab. I doubt epoxying it back together will fair to well., maybe cutting a piece of lexan and riveting it to the bottom of the ramp???

#625 4 years ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Oof, removed one of the posts that holds down the flex steel over the right ramp to find the plastic broken where the ramp screws into the playfield. The flex steel must have been holding it together somehow.
Doesn't seem like a readily available part. Will have to cook up something in the lab. I doubt epoxying it back together will fair to well., maybe cutting a piece of lexan and riveting it to the bottom of the ramp???

Here is how I fixed mine. I think it is similar to what you are referring too.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-fire-restoration/page/5#post-2904538

#626 4 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Here is how I fixed mine. I think it is similar to what you are referring too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-fire-restoration/page/5#post-2904538

I did see that thread, awesome work btw. These are the ramps I was talking about (using your picture). It looks like you got new replacements somewhere? I've seen them listed on a few sites but they are all sold out.

What I was thinking of doing is pretty close to what you did with the upper houses. basically cutting a piece of lexan, and placing it underneath the ramp. The only nice thing about where the ramps break is that it is somewhat hidden by the flex steel that sits on top of it, so it doesn't have to be visually perfect to work. I'd still have to drill out the rivets on the ramp piece, which kind of scares me because of the possibility of cracking the ramp in the process.

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#627 4 years ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

I did see that thread, awesome work btw. These are the ramps I was talking about (using your picture). It looks like you got new replacements somewhere? I've seen them listed on a few sites but they are all sold out.
What I was thinking of doing is pretty close to what you did with the upper houses. basically cutting a piece of lexan, and placing it underneath the ramp. The only nice thing about where the ramps break is that it is somewhat hidden by the flex steel that sits on top of it, so it doesn't have to be visually perfect to work. I'd still have to drill out the rivets on the ramp piece, which kind of scares me because of the possibility of cracking the ramp in the process.[quoted image]

Gotcha. Makes sense. Mine looked exactly like that. I had a new plastics set so I replaced them. With the flaps in place, are the ramps loose? If the flaps cover the damage and they are tight then you could probably leave them. Any pics?

#628 4 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Gotcha. Makes sense. Mine looked exactly like that. I had a new plastics set so I replaced them. With the flaps in place, are the ramps loose? If the flaps cover the damage and they are tight then you could probably leave them. Any pics?

That's the problem, I noticed the ramp was super loose after I had removed and replaced the flex steel. For now, I've epoxied the ramp back together, but I'm not confident that it will hold.

#629 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I would be interested in this too as mine doesn't sit high enough when in the up position and causes the ball to sometime get stuck or jump off the ramp when I'm trying to lock a ball.

What I did to lift the ramp on the right side was to take the front screw out of the plate that holds the rod that lifts the ramp and put a washer underneath that which in turns lifts the ramp a little bit more.

#630 4 years ago

Thought I'd leave this here for you guys. Not mine.
75$ for a fully populated Fire! play field.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=460701

#631 4 years ago

So I figured I'd show you how I fixed my busted rescue ramp. I drilled out the rivets, tried to trace the original ramp on lexan. I decided to put the lexan on the bottom of the metal ramp, not sure if this was the right way to go, or if I should have gone over the original plastic. Either way, using this technique will slightly raise the pitch of the ramp, but in gameplay it doesn't really seem to have mattered.

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#632 4 years ago

I had the bottom of my rescue ramps cracked in the same way... I found a plastic cement that I knew wouldn't dissolve any of it and managed to pretty effectively cement them back together smoothly and let them harden, then used small pieces of the clear Gorilla tape to somewhat reinforce, and, if all else fails, hold together, the repaired section. It all seemed to hold while still letting it flex more than before without breaking, so at least until sometime down the road when I feel like completely redoing them, it's functional and secure.

#633 4 years ago

Nice, I tried to glue mine with a 2 part epoxy I've had decent luck with in the past, and it held up for about 3 games before coming loose again.

1 month later
#634 4 years ago

What do folks do for the female screw posts that surround the "save my baby" ramp shot? It seems that on one side, it attaches to the plastic ramp that the saved ball goes through, but nothing on the other side. And the plastic at the former is broken off for me, as I presume it is for a lot of other folks.

I was thinking there could be some flame type of lamp (i.e., that would screw into the post) that would be powered by a battery and actuated by something that could be actuated by the game being active. This would be wonderful. Or perhaps a ring of fire going across the ramp that taps into the general illumination from a nearby lamp.

1 week later
#635 4 years ago

I’m working on a Fire! for friend. The relay board (sol 10) had been replaced with a physical relay. I got a replacement board but can’t find how to hook it up in the schematic. Is it NC or NO? Would someone be so kind to take an picture of their GI relay board and share it? Thanks!

EA15FDC7-8F29-4EE7-AF39-3D40CDB15C78 (resized).jpegEA15FDC7-8F29-4EE7-AF39-3D40CDB15C78 (resized).jpeg73E3DDA2-F7CE-4933-B65A-A8B702174EE9 (resized).jpeg73E3DDA2-F7CE-4933-B65A-A8B702174EE9 (resized).jpeg
#636 4 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

I’m working on a Fire! for friend. The relay board (sol 10) had been replaced with a physical relay. I got a replacement board but can’t find how to hook it up in the schematic. Is it NC or NO? Would someone be so kind to take an picture of their GI relay board and share it? Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

here you go! hope this helps.

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#637 4 years ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

here you go! hope this helps.[quoted image]

Thank you for the quick response. I wired mine up to NC and changed a blown transistor in the board. The lightshow works great now.

2 weeks later
#638 4 years ago

Looking back through this thread I couldn't find it, but I remember someone saying they were having issues with the ball getting stuck behind the window doors. My Fire! has been doing this a lot lately, and I was wondering if they ever figured out a solution. My game is leveled out pretty good, and it seems like if you don't get it up the ramp with enough oomph the ball will just sit behind the swinging doors.

#639 4 years ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Looking back through this thread I couldn't find it, but I remember someone saying they were having issues with the ball getting stuck behind the window doors. My Fire! has been doing this a lot lately, and I was wondering if they ever figured out a solution. My game is leveled out pretty good, and it seems like if you don't get it up the ramp with enough oomph the ball will just sit behind the swinging doors.

This image may help. I was adjusting mine and discovered these screws on the sides that give the ability to move the steel “lip” up and down. Sounds like the ball may be getting hung up there?

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#640 4 years ago

And... one more option. When I got my game I was having trouble with ball getting stuck there and discovered this ... flap was UNDER the plastic ramp instead of over it

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#641 4 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

This image may help. I was adjusting mine and discovered these screws on the sides that give the ability to move the steel “lip” up and down. Sounds like the ball may be getting hung up there?[quoted image]

Thanks man! I should have some time this weekend to dig into it, I will let you all know what I find!

#642 4 years ago

From eBay..... "Fire! Pinball Playfield Plastic NOS - Originals"

Never seen them before.....where these go?

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#643 4 years ago
Quoted from Theo_Ioannis:

where these go?

No clue. They are shaped similar to the upper part of the inner buildings. I am curious too. Are they from another game? if so, what?

#644 4 years ago
Quoted from Theo_Ioannis:

From eBay..... "Fire! Pinball Playfield Plastic NOS - Originals"
Never seen them before.....where these go?
[quoted image]

I saw these too, looked at mine and couldn't make heads or tails out of where they go, the brick pattern is definitely the same as fire, but no clue.

1 week later
#645 4 years ago

Looking for the pair slingshot plastics and the rescue ramp plastics so I can move forward on my restore. PM me if you have any of these that you'd be willing to part with. Thanks.

Parts - Wanted
Wanted! - “Looking for both slingshot plastics and for both of the long ramp-to-nowhere plastics for Fire! so I can complete my restore. Original or repro is fine. Used or new are both acc...”
1 year ago
Media, PA
Expired!

#646 4 years ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Looking for the pair slingshot plastics and the rescue ramp plastics so I can move forward on my restore. PM me if you have any of these that you'd be willing to part with. Thanks.

Parts - Wanted

Slingshot and Ramp Plastics for Williams Fire!

New!

Wanted! “Looking for both slingshot plastics and for both of the long ramp-to-nowhere plastics for Fire! so I can complete my restore.

Original or repro is fine. Used or new are both acc...”

46 minutes ago

Media, PA

Wanted

cmack750

CPR still sells the set, unless you're trying to do it on a budget
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/fire-2/

#647 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

CPR still sells the set, unless you're trying to do it on a budget
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/fire-2/

Thanks. But yeah... Trying to avoid the whole set if possible. Don't need the other ones and a good chunk of that plastic set is either the weird and relatively useless desktop assembly/mini topper, or riveted pieces that don't make sense to replace if not broken.

2 weeks later
#648 4 years ago

Hi everyone,

Greetings from Australia!

I hope you all don’t mind me crashing this party but I am stoked to find a thread dedicated to my latest acquisition, a mighty Williams “Fire!”

I’ve initially come across a couple of switch hassles and I’m hoping that someone from the Fire! family can assist.

Primarily, I noticed that the left ball lock was spitting out more than one ball every now
and then and causing a two ball multiball to occur. On closer investigation I discovered that a wire form is missing.

If I can’t find the actual wire form I’m thinking I can bend my own. I’m having trouble finding any pics to show what shape it should be but I think it will act as a gate to stop more than one ball from being ejected(?). There also appears to be a dummy switch (that isn’t wired up and doesn’t have contacts) under the playfield that I’m assuming simply acts like a spring to reset the wire form after the ball rolls over it....

I’ve attached some pics of the underside of my game and I also found an online image of a game that has the wire form in place (ringed in red).

I’m also struggling to find a replacement for the left spinner switch SW-1A-171 that has no contacts They seem a bit hard to find.....

So in summary:

Does anyone own a Fire pinny that they can please take a snap of the wire form (and possibly the under playfield switch area) or know where I can buy one?
Does anyone know where I can buy the spinner switch SW-1A-171 or whether there is a substitute?

Excuse the essay and big thanks to toyotaboy who has already very kindly shared the laser cutting files for the custom brackets. A true legend!

Cheers​!
894BBBD9-CD23-42F7-A49D-A133360A76EA (resized).jpeg894BBBD9-CD23-42F7-A49D-A133360A76EA (resized).jpeg18D024C7-FEE1-4A66-A0D3-3D20B721DDB2 (resized).jpeg18D024C7-FEE1-4A66-A0D3-3D20B721DDB2 (resized).jpeg23212620-0923-4A5C-A5E5-3EA73D20C55B (resized).jpeg23212620-0923-4A5C-A5E5-3EA73D20C55B (resized).jpeg53C31E7F-14E4-4D11-ABE7-EE81EBAC1804 (resized).jpeg53C31E7F-14E4-4D11-ABE7-EE81EBAC1804 (resized).jpeg

#649 4 years ago
Quoted from Muzac:

Hi everyone,
Greetings from Australia!
I hope you all don’t mind me crashing this party but I am stoked to find a thread dedicated to my latest acquisition, a mighty Williams “Fire!”
I’ve initially come across a couple of switch hassles and I’m hoping that someone from the Fire! family can assist.
Primarily, I noticed that the left ball lock was spitting out more than one ball every now
and then and causing a two ball multiball to occur. On closer investigation I discovered that a wire form is missing.
If I can’t find the actual wire form I’m thinking I can bend my own. I’m having trouble finding any pics to show what shape it should be but I think it will act as a gate to stop more than one ball from being ejected(?). There also appears to be a dummy switch (that isn’t wired up and doesn’t have contacts) under the playfield that I’m assuming simply acts like a spring to reset the wire form after the ball rolls over it....
I’ve attached some pics of the underside of my game and I also found an online image of a game that has the wire form in place (ringed in red).
I’m also struggling to find a replacement for the left spinner switch SW-1A-171 that has no contacts They seem a bit hard to find.....
So in summary:
Does anyone own a Fire pinny that they can please take a snap of the wire form (and possibly the under playfield switch area) or know where I can buy one?
Does anyone know where I can buy the spinner switch SW-1A-171 or whether there is a substitute?
Excuse the essay and big thanks to toyotaboy who has already very kindly shared the laser cutting files for the custom brackets. A true legend!
Cheers​!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

IMG_20200302_085135314 (resized).jpgIMG_20200302_085135314 (resized).jpg
#650 4 years ago

Its not really a switch, it's just a ball stop to keep balls from entering the lock area

15831572487801570153158 (resized).jpg15831572487801570153158 (resized).jpg
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