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(Topic ID: 235481)

Williams F-14 Tomcat

By GnarLee

1 year ago

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  • 103 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by GnarLee
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders


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#1 1 year ago

Ok so where to start. I have been wanting a pinball machine for the house for years. I routinely go to a local pinball arcade to get my fix. I recently ran across an ad for a non working F-14 Tomcat for $100. I do not know much about pinball but I figured worst case it could be parted out for more than my initial investment. A couple phone calls later and I brought it home. I was told at the time of sale that it had a bad main board

The good bad and ugly. I started by popping out the fuses and checking for continuity everything checked out but will be replacing all of them soon. I then unplugged the main board from power supply board and checked voltages at the ps board connectors. everything was pretty close to spot on except the 34v was at 42v and the 100v was closer to 110v. The 100v ive read this is a common issue and i will replace the display with a low voltage one if this project pans out. Hooking everything back up and trying to power the machine up i get some lights but not much more. diagnostic code shows 7. tried the cpu test switch on the mpu and one time it made it to 8. upon removing mpu from backbox and a closer look it appears that there were some repairs done and some possible burnt transistor by the u54 chip which is refered to in the manual for code 7. playfield is fairly dirty and alot of the inserts are raised above the playfield. I have not depopulated or cleaned yet but as far as i can tell the paint does not look that bad, maybe some very slight paint cracking but i think its just dirt on the playfield that hasnt been cleaned in forever. so i guess the big question.

1. Would this be worth trying to restore? Im thinking I can get it into nice shape for under $1000, but Im no expert. Also I do not consider my time "billable" everybody needs a hobby and time is part of that
2. Is the 42v an issue. do I need to consider rebuilding the power supply
3. I think those are the main questions for now

#5 1 year ago

I did laptop repair for a number of years so i know how to do all the soldering and such. Today i pulled the power supply and reflowed all the connectors. Most were easy couple of them were stubborn. Lesson learned get some good flux. As far as the battery connector there was no previous acid damage. The part of the board that looks wonky is around that u54 chip which is what the error 7 refers to. I went ahead and ordered a replacement board and low voltage lcd. Will get everything connected back up on friday. If all goes well I will start depopulating the playfield and test the switches...maybe play a simulated game to see whats working and not working.

#6 1 year ago

Got new motherboard and lcd today. Got everything installed and powered up with no problems. Can finally get into diagnostics as well as play a simulated game with a little help. First problem is none of the switches from the coin door or start button work. also the switches for the left and right slingshot work intermittly. I can however cheat and bridge the pins at the mobo and get credits into the machine as well as start a game. Also there is a nice hum from the speakers that is in sync with the lights flashing on and off so thinking there is a grounding issue somewhere found 1 bulb that appears to have a short in the socket and the left main flipper produces a pretty nice arc every other time it is flipped (pretty sure this is not normal). Thinking next step is to try and figure out who/what/when/where the wires from the coin door go and where the fault is. Any tips on figureing out where the problem is? all the switches as far as i can tell that arnt working are on a single colum

#9 1 year ago

Ok making progress. Cabinet switch was fine. traced the wires back to the motherboard checking the associated switches along the way. No problems were found until i got to the connector that plugs into the board. Putting my lead into the connector there is continuity when i check at the back of connector with it plugged in nothing. confirming my suspicion if i wiggle the ground at the board connector I can add credits and start games with the cabinet buttons. Will be ordering some new connectors and a few switches. pending issues are a few lights dont work could just be bulbs. final issue that i know of right now is the right and left slings work intermittly. Get these couple things tied up and i think i have a mostly working machine and i can concentrate on depopulating and fixing the playfield and reassembly

#11 1 year ago

Ok little more progress today. I ordered new connectors and pins for the wire harness, while I wait for that to come in I went ahead and removed the bad pin fixed it and soldered the wire in now the coin door, start button tilt Now the only thing other than a couple lights that does not work is the right and left slingshots. Other switches on the rows and colums work thinking it is something with the slingshots themselves. How do i go about testing these. So far I have tested the individual leaf switches and can get continuity pushing them together. I found a 3rd leaf switch on the underside of playfield which i think is a eos for the kicker thing. I can hit the switch manually on the underside of playfield and have it register during test, but if i manually actuate the kicker it does not register. I do not think this is the root of the problem but still a problem. I cant find a lot of info on the subject but im assuming its a little switch "mini loop"? 2 switches up top tied together either is triggered and kicker fires when it hits its eos switch it breaks the contact and kicker goes back to starting position? kinda stumped at this point only thing i can think of is checking continuity back to the board and maybe resoldering everything but as i do not really understand what is going on with a lot of this stuff not sure if any of that will help. (dont think its continuity as every other switch on the rows and colums work properly just the ones associated with slingshots not working)

#13 1 year ago

Ya I figured out the switches on the underside were 57 and 58 and I'm guessing need to be cleaned or adjusted so they register properly. The kickers just started working again all I did was raise playfield and attempt to test the diodes per the system 11 repair guide I found (also someone linked it above) which only made me more confused. I have an Extech MM read the directions in book for diodes; read the repair guide how to test them. Half of the diodes I touched read 400-500 (no buzz present)which I'm assuming is the .4-.6 that the repair guide mentioned. The other half seemed like random numbers with buzz. Every diode on back of coils had buzz. also had to rig a second pin on the connector but now everything works properly as far as I can tell for now. Going to finish depopulating the playfield for resetting inserts cleaning buffing waxing ect. Will address wiring issues when I depopulate the back of playfield (dont see any way to properly reset inserts without depopulating). I would like to start getting a better understanding of the electronics and how everything ultimately works. Nothing seems overly complicated with the backround in laptop repair and custom cabling, but that was easy I didnt need to understand anything I just had a real good eye for damage and I could solder really well. With pinball I feel like I need to understand a bit better how stuff works. The switches are simple but dont understand the diodes/resistors and do not understand how the coils work. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also will try to get some pics up soon.

#15 1 year ago

No Grumpy you have been a huge help with the badly worded questions I have come up with. I also think I may have figured out the kicker issue. I read somewhere that if the coin door is open the coils shouldnt fire. Fixing the coing door may have caused the "intermittent" issue. Thinking that might have been the issue but wont be able to test till morning when family wakes back up.

#17 1 year ago

Ok question of the day time. Was looking at the underside of the play field testing out some of the lights that were not working. Everything appears to just be bad bulbs. And as an added bonus looks like the previous owner put a fair amount of leds (20-30) in the machine. Next I started looking at the coils everything fires but alot of play in many of them and found 1 coil that appears to be the wrong one. Looking in the manual there are reds/greens for flipper and I can find those with the proper part numbers. When I look at the other coils they (almost) all are ae-23-800-??. What do the last numbers designate? I have found ae-23-800 coils but the last 2 numbers are different do not want to buy the wrong thing.

#19 1 year ago

So ill admit im still confused on the coil thing I did more research on what you told me as well as looked at all the coils more carefully. I still cannot tell a difference. all diodes point left and appear to be same size. Oh and when you say lug that is the solder points on coil? Is it maybe the coil sleeve length, saw a kit on marco for a sleeve kit and they appeared to be different lengths. Worked on getting more of the playfield depopulated and tried to clean a test section. Bad news is im pretty sure what I thought was dirt is indeed the start of planking you can just only see it in the yellow but its over the whole playfield. Once again all the colors look good (maybe a tad faded) but not sure the proper procedure to try and get the dirt lines out of the planking. I did a tiny section with novus 3 (very light) and novus 2 the spot did get cleaner but the dirt in the cracks was still there. Good news is the spot i did came out like a babys bottom so with a little elbow grease I think playfield can be made playable. Idea I had was do the whole playfield like I did on the test spot and then do full mylar. Other option is to look for a repro as im not sure it is worth clear coating if i cant address the dirt in the planking. And the question of the day is, I have been reading the williams 11 repair guide and when I get to flippers it mentions updating them to the newer style flippers. will this kit from marco work? . Right now Im looking at rebuilding all 4 flippers, Replaceing both coils and rebuilding diverter assembly, rebuilding pop bumper, rebuilding all the flash lamp boards and replacing a ton of lamp sockets. Any other major stuff I should be thinking about?

#25 1 year ago

Yes the spring was the reason they said to update. Maybe I read it wrong but it sounder like the assembly were the same and the only difference was the spring location and that was the only kit I found to do all 4 flippers. But now I know I can just order the bracket and springs in addition to 2 rebuild kits and all is good. I was basically trying to avoid having to buy the kits and then updated plungers. Thanks again Grumpy perfect solution. Picked up a magic eraser and some 91% alcohol for another attempt at removing that dirt. Will be careful. Today I think im going to work on polishing and rebuilding the R/W/B topper beacons. Couple small issues to fix, but should be pretty dam easy. Going to depopulate more of the playfield tonight about 75% done as it is. Oh and the updated coil explanation made all the wires upstairs fire......same coils different length sleeves.

"Theres no rule that says the playfield must be cleared, or must be pristine, or must be minty new to be enjoyed" Oh trust me I know one of my favorite pins is Whitewater. Not sure why I just like the layout and for me its really fun (on a side note ranked 250 world high score on Pinball arcade Whitewater). The local pinball place I go to has one that is in pretty poor shape. Game plays but there is a 50/50 chance the ball wont make it out of the pop up that goes by the yeti and the other half of the time there is a ball stuck there already and when you start a game you can never get to multiball. Top flipper makes it almost impossible to hit insanity falls (like 1 in 20 even if you hit perfect) yet every time I go I have to play that machine at least a couple times. Im perfectly happy having a machine that plays great but doesnt look the greatest. Yes it would be nice to have a new or fully restored machine, but as long as the game plays well and everything works is all that really matters, and I feel like the issues Im addressing should achieve that.

#27 1 year ago

I will definetly keep that in mind for a future project. So I got the beacon assembly all cleaned up minus going all the way with a wire wheel. Pulleys and shafts were cleaned, Reflectors were polished. The set screws holding the shafts all need to be replaced and had 1 bad socket. I do have a motor question. Pulled full assembly apart and everything is pretty simple (I raced 1/8 nitro r/c for years) but I am unfamiliar with this style of motor. Dont think the motor comes any farther apart.The wire I can see is fine. The top of the inner metal housing is rusty and assume this needs to be cleaned up. The main question I have on the underside there is a bit of grease but it looks like it has been though 10000000000 cycles (very thick somewhat burnt). Now I know of a couple motors that are kinda similar but would rather be safe than sorry. There should be just a tad of grease down there correct? and the springy mech in the housing is there to help spread the tiny bit of grease you have down there?

#28 1 year ago

Ok Lets try this picture thing. First up is the dirt I'm talking about. Last 3 are what im looking at with the motor

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#30 1 year ago

The gearing is what make it not spin backwards (you can remove the big gear in the middle and motor will spin both ways). Upon really close inspection the spring appears to be there to lock in the plastic sleeve from spinning with the pinion so why there is grease there idk. Im assuming at some point somebody decided to grease the shaft and put way too much and that spot is form years of that extra grease rubbing against the "bell".

#32 1 year ago

Yep so if you remove the gear with that arm on it motor will spin both directions freehand (would not try to power it like that. If you look at the grease mark there is a spot in the middle where it looks like it jumps. That is the "keyhole" where the end of the spring goes. Spring is attached to pinion sleeve and not to the bell itself. Pinion sleeve turns freely in bell. Yours does look a tad different than mine though so could be different.

#33 1 year ago

Got motor and beacon assembly put back together today. Everything is buttery smooth and best of all no more squeaky beacons. Today I wish to ask about fuses. I'm finding contradictory info in the manual on what fuses go where.

The fuse listing pg 32 <tab> Diagram on pg 35 shows <tab> Diagram pg 54 <tab> Backbox chart

F1 1/4 SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 1/4 SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 1/4 SB. . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 1/4 SB
F2 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F2 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F2 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . F2 4A SB
F3 8A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 8A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 8A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . F3 8A Fast
F4 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 4A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . F4 4A SB
F5 7A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 7A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 7A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . F5 7A Fast
F6 7A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 7A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 7A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . F6 7A Fast
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F7 20A Fast????

4 Charts 4 different answers (well the last 2 are the same but what exactly is this 20A fuse backbox chart is referencing). Other fuses in backbox are

1. beacon power. 4A SB
2. 4 that look like they are inline with G.I. out 5A SB
3. another 2.5A sb next to #2 vio/yel wire
4. Fuse on flipper power board cant find a reference to what size

Any help is appreciated

#37 1 year ago

Ya I will replace her when the time comes. The wiring looked good and there was no noticeable wear on the gears so I just did a rebuild on it. If it ever starts getting squeaky again ill order a replacement and rebuild the original again for a backup. So I think I'm doing a "big" big order tomorrow for pretty much everything I need to get the machine playable. I do have 1 question about my order. I want to get new switches for the slingshots. They didn't look very good when I got machine and not sure the leafs can be bent back straight. I am ordering a switch adjuster but in case they cant be straightened what are the proper switches for the kicker and scoring switch? I was told on the phone that all of them are sw-1a-120. I also found a place where it said sw-1a-120 and sw-1a-114. Now both of these switches are normally open but when I look at machine the the kicker switches are NO but the scoring switch on the underside is NC. Both the 120 and the 114 are NO. What is the proper course of action?

#39 1 year ago

A lot of progress the past couple days. Got the playfield out of the machine and on a rotisserie. Pulled almost everything else out of the cabinet and vacuumed/Simple green everything. decided I wasnt going as far as trying to get all the wiring clean and just gave it a quick wipe. Found 6-7 bad connector pins and got those replaced (2 were bad with 4-5 that didn't look too healthy but worked).Put new lamp sockets on the beacons (1 was bad and figured I would do all 3 at once) and got everything soldered back up and reinstalled. Starting to work on the coils and have a few questions. As a general rule if the sleeve slides in and out easily (no force required) the coil is still good? And if it requires a little force still good but if it takes a lot of force the coil is bad? Coils get 1N4004 diodes and never a 4001(4001 for lights, 4004 for coils and ?? switches) . Outhole kicker sleeve was a little tight so was thinking about putting in new coil, when I cut the diode off it was a 4001 so not sure. Yagov and rescue kicker have a 4003 on them so somewhat confused at this point.Going to finish depopulating top tomorrow and try to clean/maybe get some of the bad insert removed.

#41 1 year ago

so 4001 for lights and 4004 for coils is fine. Was just concerned when I saw the 4001 on a coil. Anything specific for switches? Pulled out the MM and the coil tests at 4.1-4.3 ohms. Does this sound correct? And every sleeve I try has at least a little bit of binding. Some are fairly smooth though with just a little resistance. Also can I test them while still hooked up or do I need to remove them and test (everything is getting removed and checked over anyways)

#45 1 year ago

Lol yes I meant multi meter. Woke up this morning and read your post and said huh to that part knew there had to be mistranslation somewhere. Though it would be nice if I had a medieval madness laying around . Ill get some more pictures up of what Im looking at today sometime. Pretty rough solder jobs on most of everything especially the coils. found a few things that will make you go huh.

#48 1 year ago

So a lot of progress the past couple days. All of the coils on the underside have been cleaned, tested and rebuilt with new diodes and sleeves. The old solder jobs looked horrible (pic 1) also notice how coil is mounted wrong so cleaned all that up (pic 2) ((and yes pic 1 and 2 are different coils)). Saved the pop bumper for last (pic 3) Is that how the switch is supposed to look or did the plastic spoon break at some point and the fix was to bolt a metal one on. Does it need to be fixed or replaced also there is a blue "capacitor?" broken off of one of the tabs? Going to try and tackle rebuilding and updateing the flippers next.

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#51 1 year ago

Ok so had my first "blunder" today. I rebuilt the diverter with new coils and did the service as it looked like it was only half done before. cut some zip ties and there was a cut wire in the bundle. before thinking about it I grabbed the wire to see where it went to/from. my tags decided they were then going to fall off and bundles come apart. Im pretty sure I have it figured out but want to double check. The purple yellow wire is just a daisy chain between the coils. So line in to lower diverter then chain to upper diverter to ball popper to (looks like yagov kicker). Order should not matter as long as they are all daisy chained correct? Then the thinner wire connected to coil is the signal wire which in most cases looks like it goes to a snubber board (not the diverters though)?

#53 1 year ago

Awesome glad I figured it out correctly. And Im excited to do that pop bumper hack...very easy to do. Thanks again Grumpy

#56 1 year ago

Um wow that looks awfully familiar but not near as bad on the board that came with my pin. Im pretty sure, but ill have to look in the morning, that is the same transistor and resistor that I suspected were bad on my original board. Error 7 which is a u54 error. Also out of all the coils those were the ones that were definitely on their way out

#57 1 year ago

Ok so trying to figure out how to make posting pictures easier. Got me a new toy for birthday hope this works . Did some flipper rebuilding today. Normally if I look at something hard enough I can figure out exactly what is going on. Not sure I understand how the flippers work. I understand the principle of 2 coils in 1 with one being strong and one being weak, but I don’t understand how the switches work. I’m attaching a couple pictures of today’s work and a couple questions.

1. The EOS switch (one with beefy contacts) is connected to the capacitor and two of the lugs. Does it matter which of the wires that go from switch to lug.

2. The lane change switch has a diode on it, but as far as I can tell it’s only connected to 1 of the switch wires.

(Sorry couldn’t figure out how to delete the “almost”duplicate photo)

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#59 1 year ago

Ok that makes a lot of sense. So flippers 1 and 2 rebuilt will do 3 and 4 tomorrow. Everything does look correct though? Only thing I changed was the red wire for the EOS. I didn't like all the blue wires and wanted something a little more distinguishable (18awg high temp tinned copper).

#61 1 year ago

Finishing up with the last flipper rebuild. These were supposed to be the easy ones, then I found out one of them was being held in with 3 screws with 5 stripped holes. To make matters slightly worse 2 of the screws that were there wer too long and were up through playfield (barely noticeable but if you look you can see the tiny hole where screw started to come through). Got some filler and got that all patched up. Was going to try and finish the diverter up today. Attaching some images of what I believe you told me to do. Just want to double check before I change up wiring. On a side note when I put the diverter back together everything was super tight and binding. If I changed the direction of the sleeve everything works great but I don’t think it is correct how I have it now. But not sure (it is the ONLY way everything fits and works properly) if I put the flange between brackets nothing fits

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#63 1 year ago

I had that wire there because I was going to start the chain at the diverters and replace the wire that that feeds the pop bumper and shoot it over to the diverters first. I think it will look a little cleaner and will prevent a splice (as a general rule I hate splices, Just another potential failure point). Or are you just saying hook the pop bumper up like it was then just add a 3rd wire and shoot over to diverters? Basically the thought process was to have 1 big daisy chain. So starting at play field fuse go to top diverter then bottom diverter then over to pop bumper.

#65 1 year ago

Did my diverter wiring today. Very happy with how it came out putting it into the harness. Was going to do the pop bumper next. Got the spoon replaced, but there is a cut component I’m not sure what it is. Found another one on the kicker that wasn’t connected as well but it didn’t look cut per say. One on pop bumper looks like it was cut. Do I need it? How to test it? Oh and 2 switches or rather 1 big stack. I’m assuming one is for actuation and other is scoring like kicker?

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#67 1 year ago

So in theory I can leave it disconnected for now with no issues and sometime in the future purchase a replacement. A quick google search says I can set meter to read ohms, cap should start at 0 and increase indefinetly. Is this the proper method to use to test?

#70 1 year ago

That is very pretty, I don’t think I’m going to that extent. Let me fall in love with the machine and decide I wanna do a playfield swap, then a new translight might be in the cards. First up I have finally got all the coils and flippers rebuilt. Final tally 3 of 4 flippers coils were toast (replaced all 4) and 2 playfield ( pop bumper and outhole kicker) were in iffy shape. Started working on the warming boards. First board was missing a couple of the resistors. So pulled the board desoldered everything cleaned everything up and put 4 new resistors in. Easy enough although I did have a good laugh when I realized I was using a pair of tweezers (for the springy action) and q-tips to help remove old and space the new. The other warming board I’m immediately concerned with has the final loose wire and some “hack”. Pretty sure I got thing figured out but want to run it by you guys to make sure.

Pic 1 picture of the new wiring and fuse holders
Pic 2 and Pic 3 old warming board and rebuilt board
Pic 4 2nd warming board and loose wire

So basically I traced the loose wire over to the 3 flashers under the big round insert. Which doesn’t really make sense as the white/grey goes to that cluster as well. This tells me loose wire goes to warming board as I suspected. Maybe there was a current issue and the wires got hot I don’t know. I still don’t understand why the jumper wire is there either. I have not check with a multimeter but all the traces look fine. My first instinct it to replace the wire with something a bit bigger and clean up the wiring there or maybe even dump the third flasher and just have 2 and remove the extra wire. Thoughts? Suggestions? There is also something similar going on with the flashers at the back of the playfield where there is 2 wires (1 to each flasher). I know there was a service bulletin for these ones

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#72 1 year ago

That is what I had figured but hadn’t looked at it close enough to determain that it was 2 separate circuits. Went ahead and rebuilt the board with the missing resistors and rebuilt the board with the loose wire. For the time being I just hooked it up like normal and removed that jumper wire. Will figure out a better solution in the future (at some point I’m going to replace those flasher sockets as they are pretty mangled) and will rewire it. Went ahead and installed rectifier board. Pretty straightforward install. Also started working at getting the rest of the Mylar glue off. None of it was too bad but the Mylar b/t tomcat on upper playfield the glue seems different. It’s like 3 times as thick and almost silicony. Taking a break for now as I’m getting a blister (dam glue). Prolly try to get the inserts pushed back in next and do general playfield cleaning. Also went ahead and ordered a playfield protector. I do think I might want to try and do a full playfield resto one day and don’t want to damage it further so I think that’s the best option till I get brave enough to try and learn to clear coat.

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#74 1 year ago

Busy couple days. Fingers hate me but finally got all the Mylar glue off up by the top tomcat targets. Good news is after spending a good few hours getting that glue off I realized that the planking I thought I had is the thin clear coat cracking. Could still cause planking, but the test area I did with magic eraser and alcohol got smooth and the ripples disappeared. Not going to do the playfield this way right now (don’t like the idea of basically sanding the playfield without putting the protection back on) but I think the playfield protector should prevent further damage for now. Maybe sometime in the near future I can see about the equipment I would need to properly clear coat. Went through 90% of the switches today. Couple questions. First the Yagov would not register (would by hand) when I had the game up doing testing a month ago. Looking at it, it has a reinforcing plate in the switch but it was literally reinforcing nothing. I took the switch apart and swapped the plate around so it’s actually reinforcing the leaf. Now I get good contact and when I test with a multimeter but it makes contact shortly after the ball would hit the switch. Do I need to try and back the switch back a bit or is that fine? Also found these 2 little gems. First one is easy wire looks good so some quick desoldering and some shrink wrap all should be good. What do you think I should do about the back flasher board. It has all new sockets on it but whoever did the work doesn’t look too good. First look I see sanding, cold solder joints, improper bridge wires (looks like the used a leg from a diode) prolly from bad solder job. I feel like I should clean everything up (even the ones that seem fine, they were all replaced at some point) and use some jumper wires but not trying to dick with the traces and running them up to the connector (the bad ones). It’s delicate soldering but going to a trace if anything ever catches the wire good chance you rip the trace up anyways so going up to the connector sounds better in theory. Is this the proper thing to do or is there something else I should be considering?

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#75 1 year ago

Ok I went with my gut and this is what I came up with. Had 3 sockets with no continuity to connector. So yellow is the ground starting at the first bad connector and running to end of string. Then did jumpers for the hot side all the way to connector. Also whoever rep,aced the sockets managed to put 2 in backwards. As this board would never be removed with the game on I left it alone. This should be ok yes? In other exciting news finally took the plunge and bought a 3D printer. Going to make a shroud to cover the back of the flasher board and protect the newly added jumpers

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#77 1 year ago

no im keeping the flashers stock for now. Ive also read somewhere that led flashers are even more obnoxious than the normal ones. My current plan for the lighting is to do the backbox with led and maybe the general gi. leave most everything else stock for now. Im thinking of going up to TPF next weekend so that might change once I get to see how all the led's look. Eventually would do the controlled lamps

And looking at that board closer its 4 sockets that are the wrong way not 2 ><

#78 1 year ago

So I have got everything put back together and a few games played. Still have a few issues some old some new. First issue was I was still not getting any switches down the grn/yel line. Pulled out the multimeter and traced the problem back to a bad pin I missed when I was doing the connectors and now all switches register. Currently none of the red cheveron inserts lite up have not traced anything yet hoping its just another bad pin (or something similar). The main issue Im concerned with is nothing that is connected to the 34v (red/wht) is working intermittent. I had this problem before I did anything with the kickers and I never got the pop bumper to work prior to doing work. When they are working the kickers will shoot off several times in rapid sucession (assuming this can be fixed by adjusting the switch) and the pop bumper seems weak (although im not really sure how strong they are supposed to be to start with). When they die everything on the string dies so no kickers pop bumper yagov kicker rescue kicker ect. The first time I noticed that the kickers were dead I checked the playfield fuse over by yagov kicker and replaced it. Everything worked fine for a few minutes then went dead again checked the new fuse and it was fine. Cycled the machine off and on and checked power at the power supply connector. Got 31v at the connector on power supply

Any suggestions on how to test this problem and find the issue? All the coils have power right? So with the machine on I can goto the end of the line and test for voltage by touching the red/wht and a ground on the cabinet and work my way up to find the problem? Kinda like how ive been doing the switch problems.

#84 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

When you have a intermittent connection like this, it normally will show good voltage but wont have current to operate the coils. If you place it in solenoid test for one of the affected and put a voltmeter on the red/wht wire, you will see that the voltage drops to zero when the game tries to fire a coil. Then keep testing the red/wht wire, working your way back to the source (power supply) until you find the spot where the voltage isn't dropping any more. This will be where your bad connection is.

well with that said my gut feeling is the connector at the power board or the connector that connects to playfield harness. All the coils have been gone over so thats the only 2 places it could be other than possibly a bad fuse holder (unlikely). Ill bust out the multi meter in the morning and see what i can come up with.

#86 1 year ago

I keep on hitting preview instead of post . So tracked down 95% of the issues past couple days. Everything so far had been poor connections at the playfield harness. I have basically popped the pins out tightened them up a bit. Next time the playfield comes out Im going to replace all the connectors down there. Got about 100 games in and the only issue I see is the yagov kicker getting stuck on. I had a pretty decent game going and was set up for multiball hit the kicker a couple of times and nothing. So I looked down in the cubby and saw the arm was extended. It appears to just be binding as it stays extended when the machine is off and pushing it back in wasnt smooth. Anything in particular I should look for (like maybe i tightened something too much ect..) when I pull the diverter top back off?

#88 1 year ago

Ya I spoke a bit too soon. I saw it was yagov and thought about all the shit that had to be removed to get to it... Once I started taking it apart its not that bad now I know how everything fits together. Turned out it was the end stop screw was too long. Sad thing is I bought short screws just for that and guess I forgot to swap them out on yagov. Everythign is working and functional. Plays fast and brutal still working at replacing the default high score. Only pending non-issue is there is alot of ball hop, especially off of the stand up targets. Thinking it might just be some minor adjustments on their angle and hop will go away.

#90 1 year ago

So decided to go to the Texas pinball festival this past Saturday. Was a ton of fun. Found 3 f-14 through the day. 2 were playable and 1 was off. Man oh man how much of a difference my machine plays compared to the ones at the show (pretty sure they were both routed machines from arcades). Festival machines slow and sloppy. Pops didn’t work raised inserts the whole 9 yards. The one machine that was off looked fairly decent. Kinda gives me that sense of accomplishment that I did good repairs. I can actually see why it isn’t the most popular machine as if you play one that’s not working good there is nothing fun about it, but if you get to play a nice one it’s a blast.

So browsing around the show found me some goodies for her. Picked up a new sheet of glass, new beacons and some flipper buttons. When I was installing the new stuff ran into a couple new issues. First I noticed that The gi lights by the left kicker weren’t very bright. Pulled up the playfield to look at the wiring and bingo bango bongo popped a fuse. Going to try and trace line back to fuse tomorrow already found 2 bad connections on the string (1 of which will not solder have tried everything) 2nd issue is I got a tiny bit of sparking on my right flipper cab switch. Replaced both caps and it’s still there so new cab switches in the near future.

On a side note my siste, mom and myself all really enjoyed jjp potc and now mom is on the hunt for one. Figure if that pans out sometime in the near future I can try to give Cletus (just ran across your thread beautiful machine) a run for his money and do a full resto. Oh an got my flasher plate cover done. Really happy with the results. V2 I’m going to try and round the corners and maybe make the red part a bit bigger. Throw a MIG decal on the red and some tomcat decals on either side. Just because.....

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#93 1 year ago

not a lot of work today but what i did started frustrating me. So started testing down the line and went something like this bad bad bad bad bad, then i realized well duh I have to take out the lamps to test socket. Got the 10 out that I knew of and was still getting continuity and looked a little deeper and found at least 4 more sockets on the string with 2 under the diverter. I dont want to pull the diverter again just so I can pull 2 bulbs and test some sockets but they also arnt serviceable sockets (IE they are stapled in). I am prepared to swap out all the gi that is stapled in and do some wiring work. Will these sockets work to replace the gi to something that can easily be serviced. . As far as wireing them I should be able to just redo them as a daisy chain and then tap into the braid in a couple spots and hook in the power ?

#95 1 year ago

I do plan on running insulated grounding wire for the chain and then tapping into the braid probly at the start and end of then chain to make the swap as easy as possible. I dont want to use the flat mounting sockets because i do not plan to put staples back in. Id rather have a screw I can take out and pull the whole socket if I have problems in the future. If I ever get around to the playfield resto all the ground braid will effectivly dissappear for insulated wire.

#96 1 year ago

Oh and on a lighter note. Didnt think mom was serious, but evidently she had waaay more fun playing potc than I thought....Her new machine should be delivered next week sometime. Which means give me 6 months and ill have her convinced to let me take the f-14 back apart to do a playfield resto.

#97 1 year ago

Any of you guys have a pic of the playfield with only the GI wired. There is no reference to how the gi is supposed to be wired in the manual that I can tell. Basically in the backbox we have 4 fuses that are for the gi. Assuming one is for the backbox gi. One is the gi string I'm about to update wht/yel (includes almost all of the gi im about to update) and have found 2 other sockets on the wht/vio. Does this seem right? where are the other wires feeding power? I guess what I'm really asking is there a quick dirty version to how the 4 strings are wired?

#99 1 year ago

That helps. So thinking I just need to find the other wht/vio ones. Then ill split them between the 2 strings. Perfect

#101 1 year ago

You are correct. Did some investigating today 2 are backbox. Then 1 for everything south of the pop bumper and 1 for everything north of pop. Ordering enough sockets to redo all the gi. Going to do all of the wht/yel string now and when I start having issues with the wht/vio I will redo that whole string. I was also thinking about how some of the GI could be moved to the top of the playfield for better light coverage. Example the gi that is where the 1-6 stand up targets are, do 3 of them under the aircraft carrier then throw one in between of the kickouts and pop bumper. Should produce more playfield light and would still be covered by plastics so cant see, My test LED came in also. Man oh man what a difference they make. I did 5 in the backbox and quickly realized my translight is waaay better than I thought. Going to go with 2 smd frosted naturals with a few 4 smd in some select spots. Its almost like it highlights the spot a bit with the 4smd without looking weird from being a different color.

#102 1 year ago

So first thing on the list today. Anyone willing to vouch for me so I can post in Hot Topic areas. Second ran into a weird issue with the F-14 and not sure how to start diagnosing it. There have been a good few times where I thought I earned an extra ball but never received it. Now I think I read before that their is a way to lose your extra ball on F-14 but not sure what triggers it. The issue ive been having is in a multiplayer game if I hit the yagov kicker and the ball drains the game says flight insurance but it still goes to the next player. So im losing my ball save in multiplayer. In single player if I drain I get the ball back no problem. Thanks in advance

2 weeks later
#103 1 year ago

So got tired of endlessly working on the jjp potc I decided to give a little love to the F-14. Got prolly 80% of machine done in led now . Put in a order to get the gi string replaced (why lower Playfield is dark) and replacing both flipper cab switches. Also added a couple spotlights to the back area.

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