Williams F-14 Tomcat

(Topic ID: 235481)

Williams F-14 Tomcat


By GnarLee

44 days ago



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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by GRUMPY
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#1 44 days ago

Ok so where to start. I have been wanting a pinball machine for the house for years. I routinely go to a local pinball arcade to get my fix. I recently ran across an ad for a non working F-14 Tomcat for $100. I do not know much about pinball but I figured worst case it could be parted out for more than my initial investment. A couple phone calls later and I brought it home. I was told at the time of sale that it had a bad main board

The good bad and ugly. I started by popping out the fuses and checking for continuity everything checked out but will be replacing all of them soon. I then unplugged the main board from power supply board and checked voltages at the ps board connectors. everything was pretty close to spot on except the 34v was at 42v and the 100v was closer to 110v. The 100v ive read this is a common issue and i will replace the display with a low voltage one if this project pans out. Hooking everything back up and trying to power the machine up i get some lights but not much more. diagnostic code shows 7. tried the cpu test switch on the mpu and one time it made it to 8. upon removing mpu from backbox and a closer look it appears that there were some repairs done and some possible burnt transistor by the u54 chip which is refered to in the manual for code 7. playfield is fairly dirty and alot of the inserts are raised above the playfield. I have not depopulated or cleaned yet but as far as i can tell the paint does not look that bad, maybe some very slight paint cracking but i think its just dirt on the playfield that hasnt been cleaned in forever. so i guess the big question.

1. Would this be worth trying to restore? Im thinking I can get it into nice shape for under $1000, but Im no expert. Also I do not consider my time "billable" everybody needs a hobby and time is part of that
2. Is the 42v an issue. do I need to consider rebuilding the power supply
3. I think those are the main questions for now

#2 44 days ago

Lets see some picsIf you've only bought it for $100 that gives you a lot of wiggle room.

If the displays are good, you can rebuild the HV section of the power supply and lower the display voltage to 91v.

Here's some nice resources: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-bullet-proofing-thread

#3 44 days ago

Get some clear pics, especially of the boards in the backbox. If they said the mainboard was bad, it could have battery corrosion. That can be a challenging fix, especially if you are new to electronics. Get yourself the proper wiring repin tools and practice using them, those are almost always an issue. The first thing will be to disconnect the other boards, check the transformer secondary windings for voltages in spec, then hook up the power supply only and get the power supply in spec. Or, just replace it with an aftermarket. They are reasonably cheap and it will save you time and provide clean reliable power.

Links to the bible of System 11 repair, read all of it completely before you even open the game:

https://hansbalk.home.xs4all.nl/rep/sys11/index.html

#4 44 days ago

You don't hear of many 100 dollar F-14's or any pin for that matter.

Quoted from GnarLee:

Would this be worth trying to restore?

My opinion is, send off MPU and power supply to a reputable board guy and have them repair and test. Have NVRAM installed there and have them throw in a new C-30 capacitor on the MPU. What wayout440 said about battery corrosion and learning how to repin are important points. Once you get the boards back and the game boots up, start working on the playfield. Heat inserts underneath with a hot air gun and apply nice even pressure to them from the top. Level them out as best you can, then use LED lights under them so they don't get the heat that incandecents put out. Shop out and go kill Yagov.

#5 43 days ago

I did laptop repair for a number of years so i know how to do all the soldering and such. Today i pulled the power supply and reflowed all the connectors. Most were easy couple of them were stubborn. Lesson learned get some good flux. As far as the battery connector there was no previous acid damage. The part of the board that looks wonky is around that u54 chip which is what the error 7 refers to. I went ahead and ordered a replacement board and low voltage lcd. Will get everything connected back up on friday. If all goes well I will start depopulating the playfield and test the switches...maybe play a simulated game to see whats working and not working.

#6 42 days ago

Got new motherboard and lcd today. Got everything installed and powered up with no problems. Can finally get into diagnostics as well as play a simulated game with a little help. First problem is none of the switches from the coin door or start button work. also the switches for the left and right slingshot work intermittly. I can however cheat and bridge the pins at the mobo and get credits into the machine as well as start a game. Also there is a nice hum from the speakers that is in sync with the lights flashing on and off so thinking there is a grounding issue somewhere found 1 bulb that appears to have a short in the socket and the left main flipper produces a pretty nice arc every other time it is flipped (pretty sure this is not normal). Thinking next step is to try and figure out who/what/when/where the wires from the coin door go and where the fault is. Any tips on figureing out where the problem is? all the switches as far as i can tell that arnt working are on a single colum

#7 42 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

is. Any tips on figureing out where the problem is? all the switches as far as i can tell that arnt working are on a single colum

Most likely you didn't hook up the door switch connector on the CPU. It maybe behind the board. It's on the lower left corner of the board, bottom connector should have all black wires, the next up is the coin door switch wires.

#8 42 days ago

The sparking flipper will need a new EOS switch or cabinet switch installed depending on where the spark is coming from.

#9 41 days ago

Ok making progress. Cabinet switch was fine. traced the wires back to the motherboard checking the associated switches along the way. No problems were found until i got to the connector that plugs into the board. Putting my lead into the connector there is continuity when i check at the back of connector with it plugged in nothing. confirming my suspicion if i wiggle the ground at the board connector I can add credits and start games with the cabinet buttons. Will be ordering some new connectors and a few switches. pending issues are a few lights dont work could just be bulbs. final issue that i know of right now is the right and left slings work intermittly. Get these couple things tied up and i think i have a mostly working machine and i can concentrate on depopulating and fixing the playfield and reassembly

#10 41 days ago

Try cleaning the kicker switches with a new dollar bill and alcohol.

#11 40 days ago

Ok little more progress today. I ordered new connectors and pins for the wire harness, while I wait for that to come in I went ahead and removed the bad pin fixed it and soldered the wire in now the coin door, start button tilt ect...work. Now the only thing other than a couple lights that does not work is the right and left slingshots. Other switches on the rows and colums work thinking it is something with the slingshots themselves. How do i go about testing these. So far I have tested the individual leaf switches and can get continuity pushing them together. I found a 3rd leaf switch on the underside of playfield which i think is a eos for the kicker thing. I can hit the switch manually on the underside of playfield and have it register during test, but if i manually actuate the kicker it does not register. I do not think this is the root of the problem but still a problem. I cant find a lot of info on the subject but im assuming its a little switch "mini loop"? 2 switches up top tied together either is triggered and kicker fires when it hits its eos switch it breaks the contact and kicker goes back to starting position? kinda stumped at this point only thing i can think of is checking continuity back to the board and maybe resoldering everything but as i do not really understand what is going on with a lot of this stuff not sure if any of that will help. (dont think its continuity as every other switch on the rows and colums work properly just the ones associated with slingshots not working)

#12 40 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

I found a 3rd leaf switch on the underside of playfield

This is the score switch and are normally open until the kicker fires which will then close it and give you points. Pic below.

Quoted from GnarLee:

2 switches up top tied together either is triggered and kicker fires

These 2 switches are tied in parallel to fire the coil. Either switch can fire the coil. These switches are connected to the CPU at 1J-18 pin 5 left kicker and 1J-18 pin 3 right kicker.

switch (resized).PNG
#13 40 days ago

Ya I figured out the switches on the underside were 57 and 58 and I'm guessing need to be cleaned or adjusted so they register properly. The kickers just started working again all I did was raise playfield and attempt to test the diodes per the system 11 repair guide I found (also someone linked it above) which only made me more confused. I have an Extech MM read the directions in book for diodes; read the repair guide how to test them. Half of the diodes I touched read 400-500 (no buzz present)which I'm assuming is the .4-.6 that the repair guide mentioned. The other half seemed like random numbers with buzz. Every diode on back of coils had buzz. also had to rig a second pin on the connector but now everything works properly as far as I can tell for now. Going to finish depopulating the playfield for resetting inserts cleaning buffing waxing ect. Will address wiring issues when I depopulate the back of playfield (dont see any way to properly reset inserts without depopulating). I would like to start getting a better understanding of the electronics and how everything ultimately works. Nothing seems overly complicated with the backround in laptop repair and custom cabling, but that was easy I didnt need to understand anything I just had a real good eye for damage and I could solder really well. With pinball I feel like I need to understand a bit better how stuff works. The switches are simple but dont understand the diodes/resistors and do not understand how the coils work. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also will try to get some pics up soon.

#14 40 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

read the repair guide how to test them. Half of the diodes I touched read 400-500

Most likely .400-.500 which is good, but then you need to reverse the leads and retest and should read as an open circuit.

Quoted from GnarLee:

Every diode on back of coils had buzz.

When a diode is attached to a coil your meter will read the coil low resistance and buzz. Because of this you need to removed one lead of the diode to test it correctly.

Quoted from GnarLee:

but dont understand the diodes/resistors and do not understand how the coils work. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Ask specific questions and I will try to explain the best I can.

#15 40 days ago

No Grumpy you have been a huge help with the badly worded questions I have come up with. I also think I may have figured out the kicker issue. I read somewhere that if the coin door is open the coils shouldnt fire. Fixing the coing door may have caused the "intermittent" issue. Thinking that might have been the issue but wont be able to test till morning when family wakes back up.

#16 40 days ago

The coin door interlock is on newer WPC machines and not system 11 machines. As far as your issue goes it can be a bad connector or cracked header pins on J -18/19 of the CPU board or the gold plating on the switches is worn off and they need replacing.

#17 39 days ago

Ok question of the day time. Was looking at the underside of the play field testing out some of the lights that were not working. Everything appears to just be bad bulbs. And as an added bonus looks like the previous owner put a fair amount of leds (20-30) in the machine. Next I started looking at the coils everything fires but alot of play in many of them and found 1 coil that appears to be the wrong one. Looking in the manual there are reds/greens for flipper and I can find those with the proper part numbers. When I look at the other coils they (almost) all are ae-23-800-??. What do the last numbers designate? I have found ae-23-800 coils but the last 2 numbers are different do not want to buy the wrong thing.

#18 38 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

What do the last numbers designate?

This is the designation for the placement of the solder lugs on the coil. Sometimes there is a clearance issue requiring the lug to be in the center. You can check yours against the manual.

f-14 (resized).PNG

#19 35 days ago

So ill admit im still confused on the coil thing I did more research on what you told me as well as looked at all the coils more carefully. I still cannot tell a difference. all diodes point left and appear to be same size. Oh and when you say lug that is the solder points on coil? Is it maybe the coil sleeve length, saw a kit on marco for a sleeve kit and they appeared to be different lengths. Worked on getting more of the playfield depopulated and tried to clean a test section. Bad news is im pretty sure what I thought was dirt is indeed the start of planking you can just only see it in the yellow but its over the whole playfield. Once again all the colors look good (maybe a tad faded) but not sure the proper procedure to try and get the dirt lines out of the planking. I did a tiny section with novus 3 (very light) and novus 2 the spot did get cleaner but the dirt in the cracks was still there. Good news is the spot i did came out like a babys bottom so with a little elbow grease I think playfield can be made playable. Idea I had was do the whole playfield like I did on the test spot and then do full mylar. Other option is to look for a repro as im not sure it is worth clear coating if i cant address the dirt in the planking. And the question of the day is, I have been reading the williams 11 repair guide and when I get to flippers it mentions updating them to the newer style flippers. will this kit from marco work?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLTRON-2L2R . Right now Im looking at rebuilding all 4 flippers, Replaceing both coils and rebuilding diverter assembly, rebuilding pop bumper, rebuilding all the flash lamp boards and replacing a ton of lamp sockets. Any other major stuff I should be thinking about?

#20 35 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

So ill admit im still confused on the coil thing I did more research on what you told me as well as looked at all the coils more carefully. I still cannot tell a difference.

Here is a better description of the coil numbers and letters.

coil (resized).PNG
#21 35 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

So ill admit im still confused on the coil thing ,,,,

Refer to the pics below. You are probably not noticing the difference because most of F14s coils are the same. Only the diverter coils under the upper diverter ramps have the slightly different coil lug locations. AE- end to end lugs. AL-one lug on the left and and one in the center.
ae (resized).jpegal (resized).jpeg

The best method to get dirt out of the cracks is the old method of magic eraser lubricated lightly with isopropyl, but it is a delicate method that you must test and practice in a not too obvious location. Being too aggressive, you WILL remove paint...so you can make the problem worse if not careful. There's nothing wrong with lightly cleaning and playing a fair playfield, or even a worn playfield, by simply waxing. There;s no rule that says the playfield must be cleared, or must be pristine, or must be minty new to be enjoyed. A friend of mine has a Cyclone with significant track wear through the upper rebound area, among other places. He has had this Cyclone from the original arcade it came from for years. He would not permit me to fix the playfield as he considers the wear a part of the history of the game. It hasn't worn a whole lot more since with in home use, because it is occasionally cleaned and waxed.

There's nothing wrong with keeping the stock flippers. The repair guides are talking about updating to parallel wound coils. Tomcat was the first game to use them, so you already have updated flippers.

Quoted from GnarLee:

Any other major stuff I should be thinking about?

Make sure you have fused the inputs to the bridges in the backbox, very important for FIRE SAFETY

#22 35 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

I have been reading the williams 11 repair guide and when I get to flippers it mentions updating them to the newer style flippers. will this kit from marco work?

No. When they say to up date they most likely mean to update the type of return spring.
Use this kit for the rebuild.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-flipper-rebuild-kit-031987-to-121987.html

#23 35 days ago

If that rebuild kit doesn't come with both the original spring and upgrade spring then you will need to also order this.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-spring-retainer-bracket.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html

#24 35 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

No. When they say to up date they most likely mean to update the type of return spring.
Use this kit for the rebuild.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-flipper-rebuild-kit-031987-to-121987.html

Actually, they meant to update older System 11 games prior to Tomcat with parallel coils - F14 Tomcat is already updated! Viola!

Repair guide:
"Convert to the Newer "Parallel Wound" Flipper coils?
Really this is a good idea. If you need to replace a flipper coil on your older system 11 game (High Speed to Millionaire)"

#25 35 days ago

Yes the spring was the reason they said to update. Maybe I read it wrong but it sounder like the assembly were the same and the only difference was the spring location and that was the only kit I found to do all 4 flippers. But now I know I can just order the bracket and springs in addition to 2 rebuild kits and all is good. I was basically trying to avoid having to buy the kits and then updated plungers. Thanks again Grumpy perfect solution. Picked up a magic eraser and some 91% alcohol for another attempt at removing that dirt. Will be careful. Today I think im going to work on polishing and rebuilding the R/W/B topper beacons. Couple small issues to fix, but should be pretty dam easy. Going to depopulate more of the playfield tonight about 75% done as it is. Oh and the updated coil explanation made all the wires upstairs fire......same coils different length sleeves.

"Theres no rule that says the playfield must be cleared, or must be pristine, or must be minty new to be enjoyed" Oh trust me I know one of my favorite pins is Whitewater. Not sure why I just like the layout and for me its really fun (on a side note ranked 250 world high score on Pinball arcade Whitewater). The local pinball place I go to has one that is in pretty poor shape. Game plays but there is a 50/50 chance the ball wont make it out of the pop up that goes by the yeti and the other half of the time there is a ball stuck there already and when you start a game you can never get to multiball. Top flipper makes it almost impossible to hit insanity falls (like 1 in 20 even if you hit perfect) yet every time I go I have to play that machine at least a couple times. Im perfectly happy having a machine that plays great but doesnt look the greatest. Yes it would be nice to have a new or fully restored machine, but as long as the game plays well and everything works is all that really matters, and I feel like the issues Im addressing should achieve that.

#27 35 days ago

I will definetly keep that in mind for a future project. So I got the beacon assembly all cleaned up minus going all the way with a wire wheel. Pulleys and shafts were cleaned, Reflectors were polished. The set screws holding the shafts all need to be replaced and had 1 bad socket. I do have a motor question. Pulled full assembly apart and everything is pretty simple (I raced 1/8 nitro r/c for years) but I am unfamiliar with this style of motor. Dont think the motor comes any farther apart.The wire I can see is fine. The top of the inner metal housing is rusty and assume this needs to be cleaned up. The main question I have on the underside there is a bit of grease but it looks like it has been though 10000000000 cycles (very thick somewhat burnt). Now I know of a couple motors that are kinda similar but would rather be safe than sorry. There should be just a tad of grease down there correct? and the springy mech in the housing is there to help spread the tiny bit of grease you have down there?

#28 35 days ago

Ok Lets try this picture thing. First up is the dirt I'm talking about. Last 3 are what im looking at with the motor

IMG_0011 (resized).jpegIMG_0049 (resized).jpgIMG_0050 (resized).jpgIMG_0051 (resized).jpg
#29 34 days ago

The old grease gets thick and pasty. Clean it out and replace it with some fresh grease. I think the spring is to get the armature to spin the correct rotation, because it is AC powered.

#30 34 days ago

The gearing is what make it not spin backwards (you can remove the big gear in the middle and motor will spin both ways). Upon really close inspection the spring appears to be there to lock in the plastic sleeve from spinning with the pinion so why there is grease there idk. Im assuming at some point somebody decided to grease the shaft and put way too much and that spot is form years of that extra grease rubbing against the "bell".

#31 34 days ago

The ones I have taken apart have a paw or brake arm to keep it turning in one direction. I was thinking the spring did the same function.

pasted_image (resized).png
#32 34 days ago

Yep so if you remove the gear with that arm on it motor will spin both directions freehand (would not try to power it like that. If you look at the grease mark there is a spot in the middle where it looks like it jumps. That is the "keyhole" where the end of the spring goes. Spring is attached to pinion sleeve and not to the bell itself. Pinion sleeve turns freely in bell. Yours does look a tad different than mine though so could be different.

#33 34 days ago

Got motor and beacon assembly put back together today. Everything is buttery smooth and best of all no more squeaky beacons. Today I wish to ask about fuses. I'm finding contradictory info in the manual on what fuses go where.

The fuse listing pg 32 <tab> Diagram on pg 35 shows <tab> Diagram pg 54 <tab> Backbox chart

F1 1/4 SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 1/4 SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 1/4 SB. . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 1/4 SB
F2 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F2 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F2 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . F2 4A SB
F3 8A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 8A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 8A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . F3 8A Fast
F4 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 4A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 4A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . F4 4A SB
F5 7A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 7A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 7A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . F5 7A Fast
F6 7A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 7A SB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 7A Fast. . . . . . . . . . . . F6 7A Fast
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F7 20A Fast????

4 Charts 4 different answers (well the last 2 are the same but what exactly is this 20A fuse backbox chart is referencing). Other fuses in backbox are

1. beacon power. 4A SB
2. 4 that look like they are inline with G.I. out 5A SB
3. another 2.5A sb next to #2 vio/yel wire
4. Fuse on flipper power board cant find a reference to what size

Any help is appreciated

#34 33 days ago

Power supply F-1 1/4a sb
F-2 4a sb
F-3 8a fast
F-4 4a sb
F-5 7a sb
F-6 7a sb

Back box. Beacons 4a sb
GI lamps 5a sb x 4
75 volt coils violet/yellow wire 2.5a sb
Flipper power supply 4a sb

Under the play field. 2.5a sb

#35 32 days ago

Time for a new motor from Marco. $34 bucks.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7939

Motor (resized).jpg
#36 31 days ago

Installed one recently. Worked great.

#37 31 days ago

Ya I will replace her when the time comes. The wiring looked good and there was no noticeable wear on the gears so I just did a rebuild on it. If it ever starts getting squeaky again ill order a replacement and rebuild the original again for a backup. So I think I'm doing a "big" big order tomorrow for pretty much everything I need to get the machine playable. I do have 1 question about my order. I want to get new switches for the slingshots. They didn't look very good when I got machine and not sure the leafs can be bent back straight. I am ordering a switch adjuster but in case they cant be straightened what are the proper switches for the kicker and scoring switch? I was told on the phone that all of them are sw-1a-120. I also found a place where it said sw-1a-120 and sw-1a-114. Now both of these switches are normally open but when I look at machine the the kicker switches are NO but the scoring switch on the underside is NC. Both the 120 and the 114 are NO. What is the proper course of action?

#38 31 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

I was told on the phone that all of them are sw-1a-120. I also found a place where it said sw-1a-120 and sw-1a-114.

Sw-1a-120 is the activation switch replacement for the unavailable sw-1a-114. There are two for each kicker.

Quoted from GnarLee:

but the scoring switch on the underside is NC.

The score switch is a sw-1a-122 pictured below. When installed it is NC until the kicker arm is released and pushes the contacts open to be NO when coil is not energized.

pasted_image (resized).png
#39 26 days ago

A lot of progress the past couple days. Got the playfield out of the machine and on a rotisserie. Pulled almost everything else out of the cabinet and vacuumed/Simple green everything. decided I wasnt going as far as trying to get all the wiring clean and just gave it a quick wipe. Found 6-7 bad connector pins and got those replaced (2 were bad with 4-5 that didn't look too healthy but worked).Put new lamp sockets on the beacons (1 was bad and figured I would do all 3 at once) and got everything soldered back up and reinstalled. Starting to work on the coils and have a few questions. As a general rule if the sleeve slides in and out easily (no force required) the coil is still good? And if it requires a little force still good but if it takes a lot of force the coil is bad? Coils get 1N4004 diodes and never a 4001(4001 for lights, 4004 for coils and ?? switches) . Outhole kicker sleeve was a little tight so was thinking about putting in new coil, when I cut the diode off it was a 4001 so not sure. Yagov and rescue kicker have a 4003 on them so somewhat confused at this point.Going to finish depopulating top tomorrow and try to clean/maybe get some of the bad insert removed.

#40 26 days ago

If you buy 1n4007 diodes you can use them any time a 1n400x diode is used.

As far as tight sleeves, this is not a full proof method of testing. Check the ohms first. Try a few different sleeves as they are not always the same size.

#41 26 days ago

so 4001 for lights and 4004 for coils is fine. Was just concerned when I saw the 4001 on a coil. Anything specific for switches? Pulled out the MM and the coil tests at 4.1-4.3 ohms. Does this sound correct? And every sleeve I try has at least a little bit of binding. Some are fairly smooth though with just a little resistance. Also can I test them while still hooked up or do I need to remove them and test (everything is getting removed and checked over anyways)

#42 26 days ago

1n4001 on a coil is a bad idea. Its not rated high enough for the voltage spikes from a coil.

Quoted from GnarLee:

Anything specific for switches?

Switches are at 5 volts so 1n4001 is fine.

Quoted from GnarLee:

Pulled out the MM and the coil tests at 4.1-4.3 ohms. Does this sound correct?

There shouldn't be a diode on a WPC game coil.

Quoted from GnarLee:

coil tests at 4.1-4.3 ohms

It depends on the coil number. If it's a 23-800 that would be fine. Use a coil resistance chart to know for sure.
https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

Quoted from GnarLee:

And every sleeve I try has at least a little bit of binding. Some are fairly smooth though with just a little resistance

As long as you don't have to use a hammer you are fine.

Quoted from GnarLee:

Also can I test them while still hooked up or do I need to remove them and test (everything is getting removed and checked over anyways)

If you are referring to the coil resistance, yes you can check while connected.

#43 26 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

There shouldn't be a diode on a WPC game coil.

True, but F-14 pre-dates the diodes being moved to the backbox. So on F-14 the coils do need diodes.

#44 26 days ago
Quoted from Snux:

True, but F-14 pre-dates the diodes being moved to the backbox. So on F-14 the coils do need diodes.

On the OPs last post he mentioned MM and it popped up as Medieval Madness so I assumed he was working on a WPC game. He must of meant multi meter. This is why I shouldn't say up so late at night.

#45 26 days ago

Lol yes I meant multi meter. Woke up this morning and read your post and said huh to that part knew there had to be mistranslation somewhere. Though it would be nice if I had a medieval madness laying around . Ill get some more pictures up of what Im looking at today sometime. Pretty rough solder jobs on most of everything especially the coils. found a few things that will make you go huh.

#46 26 days ago

grumpy is just so dedicated to us pinheads. He needs his rest

#47 26 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

grumpy is just so dedicated to us pinheads. He needs his rest

Just getting off of two weeks of night shift, now switching to early morning shift for two weeks. I never know when I can sleep!

#48 24 days ago

So a lot of progress the past couple days. All of the coils on the underside have been cleaned, tested and rebuilt with new diodes and sleeves. The old solder jobs looked horrible (pic 1) also notice how coil is mounted wrong so cleaned all that up (pic 2) ((and yes pic 1 and 2 are different coils)). Saved the pop bumper for last (pic 3) Is that how the switch is supposed to look or did the plastic spoon break at some point and the fix was to bolt a metal one on. Does it need to be fixed or replaced also there is a blue "capacitor?" broken off of one of the tabs? Going to try and tackle rebuilding and updateing the flippers next.

IMG_0084 (resized).JPEGIMG_0088 (resized).JPEGIMG_0085 (resized).jpg
#49 24 days ago

The leaf portion of the plastic spoon is still in the switch stack. Someone must of added the metal spoon from a EM machine after the plastic spoon broke. You can buy a new plastic spoon and replace the old one or buy a whole new switch stack. And yes your soldering looks much better than the last repair man. Keep up the great work!

#50 24 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The leaf portion of the plastic spoon is still in the switch stack. Someone must of added the metal spoon from a EM machine after the plastic spoon broke. You can buy a new plastic spoon and replace the old one or buy a whole new switch stack. And yes your soldering looks much better than the last repair man. Keep up the great work!

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