The schematic shows the wire colors.

All of the coils have red on one lug, and another on the side that connects to the different point relays.

There is a wire chart in the corner of the schematic.

For instance, the large chime shows B-G-2 which is black-green. The 2 just means somewhere else uses the same wire color so this differentiates it. Match up to the same color on the Jones plug.

If you have the manual, usually the Jones plug pinouts are listed in it.

If the game's wiring is the same as my '75 Big Ben, I can grab some pics, as I am cleaning / rebuilding it right now.

in a jones plug connection, the wire colors are the same on the plug and jack for each pin position.

you have the jones jack in the game, right?

there should be the following wire colors on it:

- red : goes to one lug on all three chime coils
- B-G : goes to other lug on the large chime coil
- O : goes to other lug on medium chime coil
- O-R : goes to other lug on small chime coil

big ben has a R-Y wire on the small chime coil, but other colors are the same.

Wire colors appear mostly the same with my Big Ben, comparing the schematics. So you will need to look at your Jones Socket -

The pin with larger gauge wire(*) is the 'common' and should go to each coil.
Black-Green is the Large chime (1000 points),
Orange-Red is the Medium chime (100 points), and
Orange is the Small chime (10 points)

(*) - Your schematics says the larger gauge, feed wire, should be red. However, in my schematics for Big Ben, they say it should be black, but is in fact yellow. So, your feed wire may not match 'Red'.

Here's an image of my Chime connector, the plug, not the socket.
CLSgT9s (resized).jpg

In theory.. For some reason my chime unit has Yellow on the chime side, and black (as per schematics) on the plug side. Go figure, heh. This isn't the only plae I've seen wrong colors, though, admittedly, after having just rebuilt the playfield.

Ah okay, then, I was going to mention that in Big Ben, the same plug is sued for the knocker, too, so the 'socket' is 4x2 and not 2x2 like I have pictured. (3rd row is nothing, 4th is 1x2 for knocker.)

what I was trying to say is the wire color on the jack/socket should match the wire color on the plug at each pin position.

I guess since the chime unit was generic but the games had different wire colors on the socket, the colors may not match. It was also pretty common to swap chime units between games when one burned up on route.

the white/yellow looking fat wire on coyote's pic looks like the wire they often used for red. I dunno if it was originally red and faded badly or if it was a substitute when they ran out of red.

I'm going to the pacific pinball museum tomorrow and I'll get a picture from a super star machine. As long as you get the fat wire going to one lug on all three coils, if you mix up the other ones you'll just get a different chime sound than you are supposed to get for 10/100/1000 pts.

Why not use a molex type connector - small square ones like on other coin doors?

Post in the EM Parts Wanted thread saying you're looking for a Jones plug, at least 4 pips long. If you get one larger, then cut it down to size.

There are some on ebay. Make sure to get the plugs and the sockets.

fwiw

most jones plugs in people's scrap bins are two pins wide, so you'd have to cut one of those. If you don't have a source, pm me your address and I'll mail you one.

originally there were grommets or pads in/at each bar hole, but if those are rotted off you can use a square of something like scotchbrite pad under the bar on each mounting post. That'll give you the "ding" instead of sounding like ball bearings in a tin can.

in other words, the bar needs to be isolated from the frame to avoid the rattles.

super star chime plug (resized).jpgsuper star chimes wiring2 (resized).jpgsuper star chimes wiring (resized).jpg

PBR also sells chime rebuild kits with sleeves, spacers, and grommets.

For the price, it's not bad at all. Just got one from them last week.