(Topic ID: 280779)

Williams Dipsy Doodle - a couple of problems still...

By DropTarget

3 years ago


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#1 3 years ago

Hi,

1) My Dipsy Doodle's score reels do not reset at start up, but the startup sequence completes if I manually set the reels to zero.
2) There appears to be a closed 10pt switch, as the 10pt relay stays pulled in, but I don't see any closed switches. This happens across all 4 players.

thoughts?

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

1) Do the 1-2 Reset relay and 3-4 Reset relay click-click-click when the score reels don't reset?

Hi Mark,

The 1-2 reset relay does, the 3-4 does nothing.

I did get the player 1 reels to reset (once), I'm not sure why though.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from southofi-10:

1-Might have dirty switch contacts on score reel switches .At least 1 if not 2 of the contacts need to touch for them to pulse in reset.They all open at 0.I'd check all them first and get that behind you. They might look like they are touching,but I would go ahead and clean them all

They are all pretty dirty, with all of the other steppers sluggish.

Quoted from southofi-10:

2-My guess is the 10 points is a playfield switch contact touching.I'd look at the kickers and other switches under the plastics first,then check any roll over buttons and switches.

The switches appear to be open. With the machine off, there is continuity across the switches, even when they are open. There are two Jones plugs that go from the playfield to the motor board. The continuity breaks If I unplug the smaller of the two.

#7 3 years ago

will do.

Any ideas on the 10pt relay? I'll try to pin out that jones plug, or am I going down the wrong road?

thx

#8 3 years ago

Update: I disassembled, cleaned and regapped the switches on all player 1 score reels. They now reset. I’ve got the parts from player 2 in the sonic cleaner now and will reassemble them next.

So far so good.

There’s nothing like doing 16 score reels! At least Williams are easy to rebuild.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from TimMe:

For the 10 point issue, check the scoring switches for the kickers, they are located under the playfield and are easy to miss when checking for a stuck switch on the playfield.
If it's not that, then check the switches on the bumper relays to see if any of the N.O. switches on any of these relays are staying closed all the time.
And, this game also provides 10 point scoring via the pulse relay and the advance unit, so it's possible there is an issue there, such as an N.O. switch on the pulse relay always staying closed.

Thanks,

I already checked all of those, I'll look at the advance unit closer, as it's hard to get to.

Also it appears that the 3rd player 10,000 coil is locked on, I think that was happening before but I didn't really notice it. I'll report back after all of the score reels are rebuilt.

#12 3 years ago

UPDATE....

I've rebuilt and cleaned all of the score reels.

Here's what's (still) happening.

Upon starting a game, Player 1 and 2 reels now reset to zero, Players 3 and 4 don't move. Player 1-2 reset relay keeps pulsing with the score motor. If I manually reset players 3 and 4 to zero, the player 1-2 reset relay stops pulsing and the start sequence appears to complete. That's when the 10pt relay locks on.

I've checked the 10pt switches, pop bumper relays, pulse relay and advance unit. Is it time to start desoldering switches and relays?

I've also found some hacks. One of the jones plugs (upper left one) in the back box had all of the wires cut and spliced back on, but they appear to be correct. One pop bumper coil had electrical tape around it and one blade on its EOS has char marks.

Thx.

#14 3 years ago

Thanks Howard,

(BTW, It's Wayne)

I checked the score motor switch. It's cleaned and making contact.

If I jump the 3-4 reset relay to the 1-2 reset relay, the 3-4 coil fires. I may have to trace the 3-4 coil back through the jones plug to the score motor. I hope it doesn't come to that.

#16 3 years ago

TinMe,

Quoted from TimMe:

For the 10 point issue, one thing you can try is to unplug the playfield cables from the machine and then try starting a new game. Many later-era EMs can be started up without the playfield plugged in. If your game starts up without the PF, and the 10 point relay doesn't lock on, then you will know that the short is somewhere in the PF wiring. If the 10 point relay still locks on without a PF, then you'll know you have an issue either in the backbox or on the bottom board.

Thanks,

I've already done that. The problem stops when I unplug one of the jones connectors that go from the pf to the motor board, actually it also releases if I unplug that spliced jones plug in the head.

Quoted from TimMe:

- A backing blade in a switch stack is out of adjustment, and is touching the opposing switch blade in the stack.
- A solder lug at the back of a switch stack is bent over, and is touching the other solder lug.
- There is a solder splash across the blades of a switch stack.
- There is some kind of short to one of the lock-in switches on one of the 10 point score units.

already checked.

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from TimMe:

- If you do have 25 VAC at the impulse A switch, try jumpering the lugs of the impulse A switch. If the 3-4 reset relay pulls in, you have a bad impulse A switch.

already did.

thanks again, I'm on my way to HF for a cordless soldering iron. I'll check the rest later.

#19 3 years ago

so, the 10pt issue......

It appears that the gr-bl wire that igoes from the pf to the back box jones plug is the culprit. Tracing it, it goes, in series through several 10pt switches and a couple of relays. I haven't found where it starts yet as it gets buried deep inside of a thick wire bundle. I'm assuming when I find the origin, I could split the run in half and jumper to see isolate the short. Does that make sense?

and not to sound too naive re: the impulse switches. How do I check for voltage? Should I ground one side of the voltmeter and probe with the other?

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from TimMe:

If you are at the point where you need to start unhooking sections of the daisy-chained gr-bl wire to help you find your 10 pt short, then yes you should separate the run of the wire at some roughly physical half-way point in the daisy-chain. Always separate the run at a solder lug, of course. If your short goes away when you isolate a section of the daisy-chain, then obviously the problem is somewhere in the isolated section. Once you have found a fairly small section that contains the short, you should be able to track down the root cause at one of the connection points for the wire.

Yeah, I think I'm at that point. Unfortunately, I think I'll have to untie a rather thick wire bundle to follow the wire. Time for more tie wraps!

Quoted from TimMe:

Generally speaking, you can assume the short is not inside the wire cable itself. That does happen once in a very rare while, but it is extremely uncommon - it usually only happens if the cable got pinched or crushed or damaged in some other way. So if you inspect the length of the cable and there's no sign of trauma, the fault is very likely to be at a switch.

I had that issue on a shuffle alley, man, it was a b*tch finding it!

Quoted from TimMe:

On a Williams game of this era, to check voltages you can clip one lead of your voltmeter to the common terminal of the transformer. This will be the terminal marked "C" with several yellow wires soldered to it. Alternatively, you can clip to any nearby wire in the game that is yellow, since that will be directly tied back to the "C" terminal of the transformer. Then, you can check for 25 volts with the other lead of your meter. Be sure the meter is set to AC voltage, not DC voltage.

Thanks, I was looking for the correct transformer lug, Now I know.

Stay tuned.......

#22 3 years ago

Latest......

10pt problem resolved. Sometimes you get lucky. I decided to split the circuit in half, so I desoldered the wire from one of the switch lugs. By chance, that was the shorted switch! 1st try!!! woohoo!!!!!

3-4 reset relay issue......I'm getting 12VAC at the motor switch. I haven't traced the wire back to the jones connector yet. I sure wish Williams gave a pin out chart for these games. It sure would make trouble shooting a lot easier.

New issue (well, one that showed itself) the 1000pt rollovers and targets don't score. the make/break contacts on the 1000pt relay are good.

Thx again.

-W

#24 3 years ago

Moving right along.....

3-4 relay. I jumped from the middle switch blade on stack A to the coil on the 3-4 reset relay. It pulsed as it should. So the break is somewhere in that path. The jones connectors appear to be good, as I had continuity from the male plug through the female plug to the relay, but I'll verify that by jumping the switch to the female side of the connector. (that worked).

Worse comes to worse, I'll probably run a new wire through the bundle as opposed to tracing the one that's already there......

Stay tuned....

Then there are other issues. (1000's not scoring, ball count unit not advancing)

#25 3 years ago

Grrrrrrr,

I went out to buy wire, when I came home, I found my game room flooded with about 2" of water. I've got most of the water removed, plumber coming tomorrow.

I don't think any machines were harmed, but I'm not turning anything back on for a few days. The Dipsy Doodle may have to take the back burner for a little while.

#26 3 years ago

Ok, Crisis mostly taken care of.....Back to DD.

I've run a new wire from to 3-4 relay to the score motor. All player reels now reset at start up and a game starts.

There are a few more issues. 1 being that all of the steppers need to be cleaned, but the one I'd like to address next is that none of the 1000pt switches or rollovers score. The 1000pt relay coil is good but is not pulling in (it does when rolling over from 100's). I'm assuming a broken wire in the chain, but don't know where to start looking for it. It would be helpful if I knew the wire color to trace or which jones pin to start tracing.

Any thoughts?

#28 3 years ago

1000pt issue fixed......kinda sorta.

I bypassed the jones plug and jumped the BR-Y lead from the relay to various switch lugs in that circuit. Individually, all the switches would then score 1000pts when jumped, but only the jumped switch. Then I got to one switch (the #1 standup target), when it was jumped all of the switches in line worked. I then traced from the relay to the jones plug and found the correct pin. The wire going to that pin from the pf did not have continuity and was spliced. I followed the wire back to it's origin, which was the center stand up switch. I ran a new wire, but the circuit still did not work, but if I jump that switches lug to the #1 standup switch the circuit works and everything scores correctly. I don't see how that's correct, as the center standup switch had only one wire going to the lug. Perhaps it should have been connected to the #1 switch all along, as there is no way, as far as I can tell for the other switches to be connected in series without the jumper IDK.

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

From a quick look at the schematic, it appears that the pulses from the 1000-pt target switches and center jet bumper come to the head through a BR-Y wire on one of the Jones plugs.

Thx,

#30 3 years ago

Next Problem.....

Player unit does not step.

I have to see if the coil is getting power or if the stepper is just too gunked up to work........

Will check and report back.

Added over 3 years ago:

Next up, Player Unit and Ball count units not pulsing. Time to check the score motor, but I have a suspicion that it's something else.

Added over 3 years ago:

I'm going to start a new thread.

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