(Topic ID: 47609)

Williams Diner Restoration


By ArcadiusMaximus

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 192 posts
  • 63 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Langless28
  • Topic is favorited by 37 Pinsiders

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There are 192 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
#1 6 years ago

Hello All,

I'm currently restoring my Williams Diner. I thought I'd start a work log to keep track of my progress. I have the entire machine striped and I have begun working on the play field. This was my first purchase and I definitely got a little hosed on the deal considering the condition, but live and learn I suppose. The entire play field is planking as is the cabinet. I have already filled in the deep marks and gouges on the play field. I'm waiting for my airbrush paint I ordered to come in so I can begin the big touch ups. I plan on clear coating the entire field as well.

Some of you might have seen my post asking for inserts. I have decided to just salvage what I have as the inserts for this table seem to be non existent. Hopefully it holds me over until CPR releases their repro field. I'm definitely open to any and all suggestion as I go along. I'm not new to DIY projects and the like, but I am fairly new to pinball. Here we Go !

Here is the field as it stands. The inserts have been removed, cleaned, and old art work sanded off.
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Here was one rough area that was worn down to bare wood. Filled the track and sanded level. I'm going to repaint this entire orange area.
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Here is a close up of the crazing. Hoping the clear coat will seal this and prevent it from getting worse. All white areas will be airbrushed as well.
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Typical raised customer and DINER light inserts. Need to be removed and replaced. I'm going to cut new polycarbonate replacements since these parts don't exist anymore.
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#3 6 years ago

Chirst that's a lot of wear and a lot of work.

#4 6 years ago

Cool. That is going to be some project! Good luck!

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Chirst that's a lot of wear and a lot of work.

Yea its was definitely a "players table". It was on route for about 7 years then in a home (cough garage cough) for another 5 or so. Lots of fixing up to do. I'm also redrawing all the art work from scans which I'll use to make decals. Definition of labor of love.

#6 6 years ago

I will follow this thread!

Love to see people's restorations! Diner is certainly worthy! Looks like you're all in!

Chris

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

I will follow this thread!
Love to see people's restorations! Diner is certainly worthy! Looks like you're all in!
Chris

I have no choice now haha. Hey Bucks County eh? I'm from Warminster originally

#8 6 years ago

I thought I'd share some of my WIP artwork restore screens. I have been tracing, touching up worn spots, and coloring for the past 2 weeks on and off. I going to take this art and along with this system, http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/ , and hopefully make my own decals. If this stuff works as promised it will produce super HQ decals no thinner than toner ! Will definitely do a test on wood along with clear coat to see how well it works. Here's the art I have so far.

Untitled-1.jpg Untitled-2.jpg Untitled-3.jpg Untitled-4.jpg

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

hopefully make my own decals

Wow. That's pretty ambitious!
Hope it works out for you.
Either way, you are going to end up with a very nice pin.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

I have no choice now haha. Hey Bucks County eh? I'm from Warminster originally

Nice My mom lived in Warminster as well

Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

I thought I'd share some of my WIP artwork restore screens. I have been tracing, touching up worn spots, and coloring for the past 2 weeks on and off. I going to take this art and along with this system, http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/ , and hopefully make my own decals. If this stuff works as promised it will produce super HQ decals no thinner than toner ! Will definitely do a test on wood along with clear coat to see how well it works. Here's the art I have so far.

Great work! Decals have been made from some areas already, but doing your own is a skill that I just don't have. Well done!

Chris

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Nice My mom lived in Warminster as well

Great work! Decals have been made from some areas already, but doing your own is a skill that I just don't have. Well done!
Chris

I actually bought those decals, but they were just way too dark and not as crisp as I would of wanted. The color was pretty off as well so I decided to go this route.

1 week later
#12 6 years ago

Small update. I got my laser printer in the mail last night and decided to fire off a few test prints to see how close my color matching was to the original. Some colors still need tweaking, but I think I'm relatively close.

DINER lights
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Food Lights
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#13 6 years ago

I think they look really good!!!!

Nice work!!

Once you have the colors where you like them, are you going to make waterslide decals?

Chris

#14 6 years ago

Looks great so far, keep us updated.

#15 6 years ago

GREAT work. Your colors look brighter to me right now.

#16 6 years ago

You are REALLY doing some nice work there.

Hope to shop out my Diner some day...just not to the extreme that you are going.

Interested in seeing yours as it comes along.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

I think they look really good!!!!
Nice work!!
Once you have the colors where you like them, are you going to make waterslide decals?
Chris

Initially I was going to do water slides, but I don't think they will be opaque enough. They usually come out a bit on the transparent side. On top of that you can't do white unless you use white water slide paper. That leaves a white edge around the slide though. I am going to try this product ( http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/ ) which basically transfers printer toner to the playfield. The benefit is you get super vibrant colors no thicker than the toner itself and you can print white . I hope to do a test board sometime in the next few weeks.

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

GREAT work. Your colors look brighter to me right now.

Thanks. They are a bit on the bright side because the paper is glossy. When I rub naptha on the playfield to simulate clear coat, the colors are even closer as far as shine goes.

#19 6 years ago

Diner is a great game and worthy of restoration! Good luck with it!

1 month later
#20 6 years ago

Just a small update. A buddy of mine is laser cutting me all new inserts for the playfield. I sent him various sheets of acrylic in several color about a month ago. He has been kind of busy at work so hasn't had much time for personal projects. Hopefully I will get the inserts around the end of this month. THIS PROJECT IS STILL ALIVE !

#21 6 years ago

Why would you take out all the inserts? I would not advise anyone to do this ever, unless the insert is loose and falling out already. It's very hard to get inserts out without putting micro fractures in them. Many inserts are impossible to find. So it's a very drastic measure. I've seen playfields ruined, because someone felt the unnessesary need to pull the inserts when they didn't have to.

#22 6 years ago

Please keep us in the loop.

#23 6 years ago

What kind of printer is putting those out?

#24 6 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

Why would you take out all the inserts? I would not advise anyone to do this ever, unless the insert is loose and falling out already. It's very hard to get inserts out without putting micro fractures in them. Many inserts are impossible to find. So it's a very drastic measure. I've seen playfields ruined, because someone felt the unnessesary need to pull the inserts when they didn't have to.

His reasoning is they were all cracked...

#25 6 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

Why would you take out all the inserts? I would not advise anyone to do this ever, unless the insert is loose and falling out already. It's very hard to get inserts out without putting micro fractures in them. Many inserts are impossible to find. So it's a very drastic measure. I've seen playfields ruined, because someone felt the unnessesary need to pull the inserts when they didn't have to.

They were all cracked and had severe light and heat damage on most of them from the bulbs. The worst cases were the inserts under the customers and DINER lights. You could push on a few of them and they would flex under your finger. Trust me I didn't want to pull them out but I also didn't want to clear coat over them and have potential issues down the road.

#26 6 years ago

well if they were already screwed you have no choice. Someone tried pulling them the first time when they shouldn't have.

3 weeks later
#27 6 years ago

So its been a long time since I had any worth while updates. I just received this picture last night via text from a buddy of mine . He is bringing them with him this weekend when he comes to visit. A few of the plain clear inserts are missing from that shot but he's got them all cut plus a few bonus shapes to mess around with. Super excited to get back on this !

213MEDIA36IMAG0177.jpg

3 weeks later
#29 6 years ago

Small update. I have started epoxying the new inserts back into the playfield. I decided to reuse the older small arrows since they weren't damaged and I wasn't happy about the way the rastered pattern turned out on them.

Here are 2 star burst pattern rectangles. I decided to do a test with frosting spray to see if I could reduce the transparency of the plastic so you wouldn't be able to see the bulb below the playfield.
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Here you can see how the frosting obscures the text.
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Here are some more shots of the playfield with the new inserts. They may look a little opaque but that's from sanding.
DSC05284.JPG DSC05286.JPG DSC05285.JPG

#30 6 years ago

that Diner is coming along nicely.

6 months later
#31 6 years ago

Just a small update. I'm still hard at work on this. I've been busy touching up large areas on the field with my airbrush. I will post some pictures of the results in a few days.

#32 6 years ago

Looking great! Subscribed to follow

Chris

#34 6 years ago

Subscribed. What a great project!

#35 6 years ago

So I was looking at the site you referenced for the decals. What specific product are you using? Is it just the "Toner Transfer System" for $15? Or is it that $89 kit?
Thanks

#36 6 years ago

Great job! Did the inserts come out fairly easy?

#37 6 years ago
Quoted from Renegade:

So I was looking at the site you referenced for the decals. What specific product are you using? Is it just the "Toner Transfer System" for $15? Or is it that $89 kit?
Thanks

Ultimately I decided not to use that method. For the time being I'm going to try a mixture of white backed decals and clear ( for inserts). I was on the fence about investing almost $90 on an process I wasn't familiar with. I plan on replacing the field in a few years with a CPR one when its released, so this is to just hold me over until then.

#38 6 years ago
Quoted from Pbpins:

Great job! Did the inserts come out fairly easy?

Thanks ! Most of them did. A few of them were stubborn but eventually came loose. The new laser cut ones, although not original, Look pretty convincing for acrylic pieces. It will be interesting to see how they turn out when lit.

1 week later
#39 6 years ago

OK so I have been juggling a few projects at once but I managed to find some time to work on the playfield some more. I laid frisket over the whole board and decided to touch up some of the white areas. Just doing that made the field look 100% better.

They turned out pretty good but I realized I probably should of put 1 or 2 clear coats over the surface first to seal the planking. So Ive sanded down the whole field with 400 grit again and prepped it for clear this weekend.

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#40 6 years ago

Last night I decided to mess around with the art work for a bit. Last year for Christmas I bought my girlfriend a Cameo Silhouette cutter. Its a pretty amazing little tool. Like a desktop CNC for cutting paper and stencils. Anyways I decided to load some of my decals into the program to do some test cuts. I have quite a few tiny and intricate cuts I would never be able to do cleanly with an exacto knife. so this tool is perfect.

Below you can see how they line up with the artwork on the playfield. I still have some tweaking to do on the cutters tool path, but it is extremely close. You'll notice the white border around the images. This is due to the thickness of the paper. When I cut the actual decals this should be reduced or hardly show up at all. More to come !

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#41 6 years ago

Looks awesome....wish could get new inserts like that and redo my guys in the middle too!!

#42 6 years ago

Very interesting... I do see the white edges you're referring to. Do you think you'll be able to do something different to remove them or will you just be OK with it?

#43 6 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Very interesting... I do see the white edges you're referring to. Do you think you'll be able to do something different to remove them or will you just be OK with it?

I'm hoping that the decal paper will be thinner which should reduce the white edge. If not I may just hit the edges with a bit of black paint using a small detail brush if it really bothers me.

#44 6 years ago

Fab work, way above my skill level and patience quotient.

Robert

#45 6 years ago

First set of 3 clear coat layers done today. I'll wet sand tomorrow and see how level everything is. I may have to add some clear around a few inserts, but other than that the clear went on pretty level.

IMAG0196.jpg
#46 6 years ago

Looking good!

Chris

#47 6 years ago

Looking good man. I know we're both plowing away at our Diners. Curious what you used to CC with? BTW, I'm definitely going to leave my mylar alone. Definitely not worth the potential of losing the inserts around the characters and/or the DINER letters. Thanks for sharing...

#48 6 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Looking good man. I know we're both plowing away at our Diners. Curious what you used to CC with? BTW, I'm definitely going to leave my mylar alone. Definitely not worth the potential of losing the inserts around the characters and/or the DINER letters. Thanks for sharing...

I am using KBS's Diamond Clear. I first saw it being used on a ToM on the AussieArcade forum. The results for a one part clear (no mixing required) were amazing. So far I'm happy with the product, but I don't think I am thinning it enough for a roller/brush. If you put this stuff on too thick or too soon between coats little tiny CO2 bubbles form.

I only thinned the clear about 13% for the first go around. It was getting pretty watery to me, but I guess that wasn't enough. The directions say you can thin up to 30% ( which is what the guy at AA did) so I'm going to try that for the final coats. The good news is most of the bubbles come to the surface so they can be wet sanded out.

On a related note I am running into a slight problem around the new laser cut inserts. They fit pretty snug into the slots when I got them, but after roughing up the edges to epoxy into the field, they shrunk ever so slightly. This is creating some tiny valleys between the inserts and wood that need to be spot filled with clear and then sanded to be level. Not a big deal just time consuming.

Thanks for all the positive feedback ! This is definitely the time consuming leg of my restoration, But I think it will be worth it.

1 week later
#49 6 years ago

I took a break from Playfield restoration this weekend and completely gutted the machine. I sanded down the entire cabinet, patched holes, filled grain, and primed it. Also threw all the hardware ( nuts and bolts) into the tumbler for a few days. Nothing better than the shine of freshly tumbled metal . Should be ready to paint this week.

IMAG0328.jpg IMAG0329.jpg IMAG0330.jpg
#50 6 years ago

Nice. No primer on the inner top section of the cabinet side panels, though? Those surfaces are visible above the playfield when playing the game.

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