(Topic ID: 213582)

Williams Demolition Man Start Up Problem

By warrenzunino

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Chrisbee
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

Just cleaning things up on the old machine but when I put the glass on and powered up, I have no flippers and no ball loaded to shoot.

I am going to dig through my dusty old manual and see if the fast blinking light on the daughter board means something. I just don't know.

Any ideas, anyone?

Thanks!

Warren

#2 6 years ago

What board are you referring to as the daughter board?

#3 6 years ago

No credits - not on free play ?

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

What board are you referring to as the daughter board?

All the documentation I have simply refers to it as the daughter board. It is to the left of the large board in the Back Box and has 4 AA batteries on it. This board has on the upper left side a set of three LEDs, one of these is flashing fast. I will be happy to include a picture if that will help.

Thanks!

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from warrenzunino:

All the documentation I have simply refers to it as the daughter board. It is to the left of the large board in the Back Box and has 4 AA batteries on it.

That is your CPU

LTG : )

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from TenaciousT:

No credits - not on free play ?

I did a full Reset hoping that might restore things but I can set it for Free Play. The display is suspicious in that it seems to be missing a lot of information I normally see on it. Of course, I don't know what is missing. Normally, on Power-Up the solenoids all hit briefly as if to eject stuck balls and the arm of the Cryo-Claw swings over and back. But now it just sits there quietly with no ball action. If I hit the Launch button, it makes the correct sound for a ball being shot out but there is no ball in the trough.

Thanks,

z

#7 6 years ago

Do the trough coils work in the coil test?

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

That is your CPU
LTG : )

Thank you. Do you know why one of the lights on that board would be blinking fast? I haven't found it in the manual yet.

#9 6 years ago

Why is this topic in the EM pinball hangout?

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from pinwiztom:

Why is this topic in the EM pinball hangout?

Because some of us are geniuses at fixing anything...

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from warrenzunino:

Thank you. Do you know why one of the lights on that board would be blinking fast? I haven't found it in the manual yet.

https://www.pinball.co.uk/pinball-problems-2/wpc-leds-explained/

1 week later
#12 6 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Because some of us are geniuses at fixing anything...

You are definitely who I was hoping to meet. My Demolition Man machine does everything EXCEPT solenoids. I can power it up, hit the START button and it makes the sounds it should. Hitting the BALL LAUNCH sounds right but the AUTO PLUNGER doesn't fire. No ball is brought up from the trough. I can take a ball and roll it around the play field and it acts just like the game is fully functional but NO FLIPPERS but the ELEVATOR goes up and down. This is notable because in the testing of the solenoids, the only thing shown as not working is the ELEVATOR.

I am not adverse to paying someone to come out to fix my baby but I am in Salmon, Idaho. Missoula is our closest city and it is a three-hour drive away. I am really hoping one of you guys who is a genius at fixing anything can guide me.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from warrenzunino:

I am really hoping one of you guys who is a genius at fixing anything can guide me.

To keep eliminating things. ( you have 50 volts at the 50 volt test point on the driver board ? ) I'd try a new ribbon cable between CPU and driver board next.

LTG : )

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from warrenzunino:

Just cleaning things up on the old machine but when I put the glass on and powered up, I have no flippers and no ball loaded to shoot.
I am going to dig through my dusty old manual and see if the fast blinking light on the daughter board means something. I just don't know.
Any ideas, anyone?
Thanks!
Warren

What exactly did you touch cleaning things up? Just asking this because it seems like something may have gotten shorted or disconnected. Hey, things happen!

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

To keep eliminating things. ( you have 50 volts at the 50 volt test point on the driver board ? ) I'd try a new ribbon cable between CPU and driver board next.
LTG : )

Thanks so much. Do you know where I can buy one?

z

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from warrenzunino:

Do you know where I can buy one?

Ed's the man - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

LTG : )

1 week later
#17 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Do the trough coils work in the coil test?

I am not sure if I answered this question already but no, the trough coils don't work. It looks like I have lost the 50 volt power to that board.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from poppapin:

What exactly did you touch cleaning things up? Just asking this because it seems like something may have gotten shorted or disconnected. Hey, things happen!

I unplugged two of the ribbon cables. One was the CPU to the driver board. I think I misaligned it when putting it back on because on power-up on a single light came up on the play field. I powered down and reseated the cable but probably burned out something with that mistake. I have a new cable on the way but I strongly suspect that something else is wrong. I have checked the fuses I have found so far and they are all good. Was really hoping a fuse went out from the misdirected 50 volt line.

#19 5 years ago

So, do you have 50V at the test point on the driver board?

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

So, do you have 50V at the test point on the driver board?

I will have to check the docs to see where it is but I have meter and can check. I assume that's 50VAC?

#21 5 years ago
Quoted from warrenzunino:

I will have to check the docs to see where it is but I have meter and can check. I assume that's 50VAC?

DC. There should be a test point labeled 50V somewhere on the driver board

#22 5 years ago

No ones asked, do you have the coin door closed?

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

No ones asked, do you have the coin door closed?

Yes. It makes quite a racket if I leave it open

#24 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

DC. There should be a test point labeled 50V somewhere on the driver board

No kidding... DC. Thanks. I will let you know what I find. Where is a good negative contact point?

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from warrenzunino:

No kidding... DC. Thanks. I will let you know what I find. Where is a good negative contact point?

There should be a 'gnd' test point too, or the entire metal back wall of the head should work

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

There should be a 'gnd' test point too, or the entire metal back wall of the head should work

I thought I found it. A 7A 250V fuse was burned out on the Power Driver Board, F112. I replaced it, powered up and it blew again as I watched. The only positive thing is that I know which fuse if blowing out. I really hope one of you guys can give me a next step to do. I ribbon cable I had to order from England has not arrived yet.

BTW, thanks for being so gentle with a newbie!

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from warrenzunino:

A 7A 250V fuse was burned out on the Power Driver Board, F112.

Page 1-41 in your manual shows that fuse is for Solenoid Secondary. That page also shows Solenoids 1-28 have their own fuses so let's dig around a little and figure out what Solenoid Secondary is.
Just inside the front cover of the manual is a list of solenoids.
29-36 are for the flippers, 37-44 are for flashers.

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Page 1-41 in your manual shows that fuse is for Solenoid Secondary. That page also shows Solenoids 1-28 have their own fuses so let's dig around a little and figure out what Solenoid Secondary is.
Just inside the front cover of the manual is a list of solenoids.
29-36 are for the flippers, 37-44 are for flashers.

I have no flippers but all the flashers are working... I think. I have nothing that requires higher voltage like the ball launcher, trough loader, and any kickers.

#29 5 years ago

Take the time to look very closely under the entire playfield for a short, bent lamp socket lead touching something, lose wire, etc. I had a very similar problem after a cleaning once and was not careful enough when lowering the play field, caused a short, blew the flipper circuit fuse, the works.

#30 5 years ago

F112 is the fuse for the 50V bridge. All the solenoids are fused both by it and by their individual fuses. Does it still blow with all the solenoids unplugged? I'd suspect BR3 might be bad

#31 5 years ago

Sorry everyone. I was in an accident Thursday and have been in the hospital since. I have been discharged but I am not moving well yet - not well enough to work on the pinball machine. Hell, I haven’t even looked at the motorcycle yet. Back at it soon. My sincere thanks to everyone.

3 weeks later
#32 5 years ago

I could not post from my iPad so I am re-writing my comments.

My efforts so far to repair my Demolition Man game have been frustrating. Does anyone know of a tech in the area who could come to Salmon and repair my machine? Salmon, Idaho is not close to any large city but is about 100 miles from Missoula, Montana.

Any help finding someone would really be appreciated.

Warren

#33 5 years ago

Sorry guys. moving now to a more appropriate forum. Tech Modern Games

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