The yellow and purple wires are the wiring to the GI They should both be going through different sides of a DPDT 24v relay with the relay poles breaking the yellow side and the purple side, each wires to their respective Normally Closed and common points on the relay

There should be another set of wires for the relay coil, one is +24 and one is Switched ground via a transistor.

In High speed these relays came as standard automotive relays (from the auto parts store, just make sure they are 24V.) Williams switched to the snubber board layout soon after, but if you can't get the snubber board and the molex connectors, then the standard 24v DPDT relay will work.

The way it's wired now will work until the connector fails since it's combining the two GI lines onto one connector, which was already too small for the current pulled for each separate wire. With them combined as they are, there is probably over 10A being switched on that molex (hence the blackened state).

You can wire the yellow to yellow and purple to purple until you get the relay, and at least the GI will be on all the time. Then when you get the relay just wire it into the break in the yellow and purple wires.

I'm actually using a board like the one pictured as a replacement, since I had a bunch laying around from other work.

ELK924_full.jpg

If your looking for the original part it's Williams # C-11998-1 or C-11902-1. Many for sale are new, non-accurate reproductions (they work just fine, but if you want 100% original these don't match).

you don't want to hook it back up through a relay like it is again, or else it will just burn up the next relay board.

The correct wiring is 1 purple form power supply , 2 yellow from power supply, key, 4 purple to lamps, 5 yellow to lamps. with one starting on the right when the connector is on the bottom.