(Topic ID: 186146)

Williams contact help!!!

By Willillist

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

Hi all this is my first venture into a solid state machine and it's a whole new world compared to em machines. I bought a Williams contact on the cheap and of course it powered up with no display nor functioning playfield I took the mpu/driver board off and found cold solder everywhere after reflowing everything I put the board back in and realized my solenoid fuse was blown replaced that and turned the machine on that fuse blew instantly but everything else came up I could start a game and it scored moved through the balls and went into game over but no solenoids worked. Now I traced the problem from my power supply to a red wire that goes through a harness then Underneath the playfield to the center pop bumper then jumps off there to every other solenoid on my playfield. I disconnected the red wires from the pop bumper so they were no longer feeding everything else and turned on the machine and the fuse no longer blew. My question is how can I test everything without going broke buying fuses I do have a dmm I know basics with it but I am still really new with solid state machines what would be my next step??

#2 7 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slow-blow-fuse-breaker-reference-mouser-links

Additionally, what I also do is raise the playfield and record it at the highest FPS I can, then slow down the recording with VLC or youtube. Then I can tell which solenoid blows the fuse. However, this is typically not necessary for games that don't have a startup sequence for the solenoids.

Another handy item for system 3-11 games is the recently produced special solenoid board. Instead of the special solenoids (solenoids that fire directly because of a switch activation, such as pop bumpers) sharing one fuse, there is a fuse board that is configured so that each individual special solenoid has a fuse.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7

#3 7 years ago

Update: okay so I hooked the red power wire back up and disconnected everything from my driver board and put a new fuse in. One by one I kept putting the connectors back into my driver board I found that 2j11 connector is blowing the fuse. What's working on the playfield now is the pop bumpers all scoring and sounds!! So I am definitely figuring it out what still isn't working on the playfield is my kickers and drop targets now I would assume this means I have an issue with something on my driver board correct?? What should be my next plan of attack??

#4 7 years ago

It sounds like you have a shorted solenoid. Get your meter out and test your solenoids for resistance. You should not have anything under 3 ohms.

#5 7 years ago

Ok so nothing seems shorted ohms wise I did disconnect my drop targets and all and plugged back 2j11 to the driver board and the fuse did not blow all the all kick outs and kickers are now working what do you think it could be with the drop targets I have never worked on solid state drop targets before not really sure where to start with them?.

#6 7 years ago

I also noticed that my flippers are not working and fuse is fine another obsticle to figure out.

#7 7 years ago

What is the resistance value on the drop target reset solenoid? Does this set of drop targets have small solenoids to knock down individual drop targets? If so, you will have to check the resistance on them too.

#8 7 years ago

You mentioned a contact replaced, a pop bumper switch? I wonder if it's a direct power to energize switch for that coil, be sure it's not accidently tied into the point switch above the spoon. That can cause grief.

#9 7 years ago

Two large solenoids and they both were around 3.5 and no there are no small ones to raise them back up individually.

#10 7 years ago

Do the flippers go through the driver board???

#11 7 years ago

Check the diode on the drop target reset solenoids and look for a direct short in the wiring to the drop reset solenoids. .

The flippers do go through the driver board - you can generally hear the relay click when the game play is enabled - this is the supply to the flippers. Early games of this vintage have a fuse for the flippers under the pf.

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from SYS6:

Check the diode on the drop target reset solenoids and look for a direct short in the wiring to the drop reset solenoids. .
The flippers do go through the driver board - you can generally hear the relay click when the game play is enabled - this is the supply to the flippers. Early games of this vintage have a fuse for the flippers under the pf.

Thanks for a response!! If that relay is not clicking what's the best way to troubleshoot that???

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