Game: Blue Chip 463 circa Nov 1976. Sometimes both the center/right eject holes don't score or eject. I have the original schematic and I think the problem is somewhere in the score motor contacts. Ideas?
Game: Blue Chip 463 circa Nov 1976. Sometimes both the center/right eject holes don't score or eject. I have the original schematic and I think the problem is somewhere in the score motor contacts. Ideas?
Check switch D on the index cam. It is a make/break switch, when the score motor starts the top switch powers the motor and keeps it running through its revolution; the bottom contact is what you are after. It should be closed which allows the centre or right eject relays to energize.
Clean it up and check if good contact is made.
I think I figured this out. Sometimes the left-most cam follower (is that the index cam?) would stop when the switch lobe wasn't at the bottom of the trough. This probably left the switch you mention open when this happened. I cleaned the cam wheels, they were sticky with old dried out grease and it seems better. Also I used 5 minute epoxy on the switch stack where the white plastic spacers where separating. Not sure how you properly fix that.
There is amazingly little information on the cams and switches on the web and correlating the schematic to the switches is a black art, IMHO. Thank you for offering help!
Also ensure that the top switch on the index cam (these are all shown on the schematic) doesn't open too early. That powers the score motor through its revolution, if it is stopping short that could be why.
Is there a source of new Williams score motor contact sets? Not clear if there is a clear way to repair the ones I have. Thanks.
You can build new switch stacks from parts available at Pinball Resource (or replace the nylon lifters):
http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm#common
Alternatively buy old parts off ebay.
I notice there are several ones offered but the note says:
"These blades are for Standard leaf switches. They will NOT work for Gottlieb AG Relays, Bally G Relays, Score Reel Switches, or any switch that the total length of the switch is less than 2”.
Try them anyway? Thanks
Is it just the nylon switch blade lifter that needs to be replaced?
Assuming the hole in the switch is intact you should be able to remove the bad one and replace it with a new one.
They are peened on (tap gently with a hammer).
The blades on the score motor are longer than 2" right? If so those blades are good.
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