Recommend you start by reading vid's guide for bulletproofing williams games

There should be a coil table in the manual

If you need any help with it (board diagnostics, parts, etc) lmk. I've got a Blackout too and I'm in town

Page 10 of the schematic, solenoid 14 drive

yeah, that's safe. as long as it functions how you like, there's no real issue.

well, besides if you sell it and someone looks in and goes 'wtf is this hack, ugh'

Two Leds on means it's not booting. Sound card won't cause that. Could be bad sockets, bad 5v, bad 12v, bad interconnect

In the manual there's a diagram of all the boards, and it has the voltage input and output labeled.

First try unplugging the MPU, see if the 5V goes back up. there could be a short dragging the voltage down. 5V can also be checked across the

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For disconnecting the mpu, I'd probably do all the connectors to be sure. 5v comes in at multiple connectors so the mpu could still be draining it. The circled connectors are where the 5v exits the power supply and its primary entrance to the mpu, for reference points to use when checking voltage (since you won't be able to use the mpu test points once it's unplugged)

Yep, that'd do it! That cap is on the 12v, which gets regulated down to 5v, so without it both those voltages will be weak. If your repair place didn't replace that cap, you definitely should. It can cause resets and other issues if it's too old.

Similarly, for the hum from the speaker, first thing to do is recap the sound board

Diodes can be replaced by 6A4 iirc. Check Vid's guide, he lists upgraded parts for all this stuff.

Have you tried swapping the displays around to see where the display issue is?

That 6 is probably showing the high score (default to 600k?)

There's a resistor on the master display board for each digit that commonly burns up, should check them.

The digits are separated into two sets (1+3, 2+4) so it's a bit weird having the same digit out on all four, unless one of your displays has a bad segment and took out the driver circuitry or something

On this board, iirc all the resistors can just be measured with power off. I'd just check every one on the board and compare the readings with the schematic.

This all might be a moot point though since you have two dead displays. You're either going to need to source some used displays for the other two, or switch all 5 to LED, in which case the master display will be getting replaced too.

Those are for extra capacitors that aren't used on later games.

All the digits should change during the display test

I had one in my Alien Poker, never noticed any issues

Didn't you swap the master display board before with no effect?

there are 3 roms usually. 2 green flippers, 1 game-specific. depending on the board you get, it might already have the green chips installed, in which case you only need to move the other one

Note, he said *between* those two. eg, use TP10 as ground. You should only have one reading