(Topic ID: 284708)

Williams Blackout Repair

By Flip-it-good

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20220909_221940 (resized).jpg
20220909_221940 (resized).jpg
20220909_221344 (resized).jpg
20220909_220212 (resized).jpg
20220905_195646 (resized).jpg
20220905_195519 (resized).jpg
20220830_162343 (resized).jpg
Bourns_Array (resized).jpg
IMG_20210312_224152 (resized).jpg
STROBE 3&4 solder pads (resized).jpg
strobe outputs (resized).png
41Cuj7wbY1L (resized).jpg
95342809cef55bf67eec5cbf2964e84729ee489e (2) (resized).jpg
IC29 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210311_212517 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210311_212256 (resized).jpg

There are 191 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 2 years ago

I've seen the aftermarket boards, very nice. I just ordered a pair of 14 pin 4.7k ohm resistor array IC's: $1.34 each from Mouser Electronics.

Bournes equivalent part #: 4114R-1-472LF.
Should be here in 3 days. Will replace and report...Thank you 'inkochnito' for the cross- reference part number!

1 week later
#152 2 years ago

Replacing this chip had no effect. Game plays and everything works after it warms up so...I surrender. I'll tinker here and there but it's time to come up from the basement into the sunshine! It was 72 and sunny today in Rochester, unheard of in March....something loves that hair dryer heat and makes everything work faster....

#153 2 years ago

Flip - I've been following, don't have any real great ideas. You noticed that heat makes it work. Is it probable that you have a trace that is cracked and joins together as things warm up? I think you have a suspect area - what about using an ohmeter and while checking each trace, make it cold? I think you can use a can of keyboard dust removal spray turned upside down to chill an area. If the resistance goes high, you found the culprit.

#154 2 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Replacing this chip had no effect. Game plays and everything works after it warms up so...I surrender. I'll tinker here and there but it's time to come up from the basement into the sunshine! It was 72 and sunny today in Rochester, unheard of in March....something loves that hair dryer heat and makes everything work faster....

No Change after replacing Resistor pack:

Suspect a corrupt driverboard lamp PIA

Because there is a related lamp issue and the driverboard and cpu are addressed and bussed together suggest performing a board isolation by finding replacement Driver and Cpu boards:

Change cpu check problem goes away?

Change Driverboard check problem goes away?

#155 2 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Replacing this chip had no effect. Game plays and everything works after it warms up so...I surrender. I'll tinker here and there but it's time to come up from the basement into the sunshine! It was 72 and sunny today in Rochester, unheard of in March....something loves that hair dryer heat and makes everything work faster....

it's cloudy and chilly out today....now get back down there

#156 2 years ago

They say sometimes takes a village to carry one person! if everyone else is more interested in getting this thing to work properly then I guess I will get down there! Lamp PIA on the driver board. Thank God for that $10 desucking solder tool!

#157 2 years ago

MC6820 PIA ordered with 40 pin socket. If anything, my soldering skills have been honed to a fine edge! Both the solenoid (IC5) and the lamp PIA (IC10) are gray in color on my boards and have browning color in the center. Don't know if this is from excessive heat or just dirty. $57 in parts and the cannon continues to fire!! I wish I had a known working Driver and MPU board to swap...

#158 2 years ago

After vectorizing the hot airflow I'm going to play a hunch and replace the main MPU MC6808 chip with an MC6802. Since this chip is already socketed I will replace it first and see if there is a change. If not I will replace the lamp PIA that I also ordered.

#159 2 years ago

Replacing the MC6808 chip with an MC6802 had no effect. I just left the new one in there. Machine runs fine. Displays still slow coming up without hair dryer heat. PIA lamp chip coming soon. Update to follow.

#160 2 years ago

Heating the Lamp PIA that is already in there does nothing for the displays or lamps so I'm hesitant to replace it. That's a lotta pins! Still trying to narrow down the trigger point with the heat. Does anyone know what those 3 IC chips in the 'Address Drivers' section on the MPU board do?

1 month later
#161 2 years ago

Narrowed the issue down to the top left part of the mpu board with the heat...but at this point I'm just going going to look to replace the board with a working used one or a new System 6 MPU one if anyone has a good resource for that I'll take any suggestions and thank you for the amazing help that I've received during this thread.... If I do end up getting another one, what has to come off my old board to put on to the new board? Is it just the green flipper ROM chips?

#162 2 years ago

there are 3 roms usually. 2 green flippers, 1 game-specific. depending on the board you get, it might already have the green chips installed, in which case you only need to move the other one

3 weeks later
#163 2 years ago

Thank you sir. I appreciate the input. Got my eyes open for one. Shame, this board is 95 percent perfect.

2 weeks later
#164 2 years ago

Found a working replacement MPU board. Will be installing it tomorrow. It will have the Blackout game ROM already installed. Any tips before power up?

#165 2 years ago

Disconnect the three coil connectors (J9 sol. 9-16, J11 sol. 1-8, J12 special solenoids).
That way no coil will burn when somethnig goes wroung.
When the game is running, plug them in one by one.
As soon as something is wroung, you will hear the coil energize and see a spark at the connector.

#166 2 years ago

Good tip, thank you!

#167 2 years ago

I would at a minimum check the pins and possibly reflow if they look off.

#168 2 years ago

It came from a working Tri-Zone and he programmed and installed the Blackout ROM. He had stellar reviews....

#169 2 years ago

Just my luck installed the board nothing works. General illumination comes on no feature lights on the Playfield, no score displays. Both red lights on the mpu are lit up solid.

2 weeks later
#170 2 years ago

Got the refurbished MPU board in and the machine works 100%. I will list my original non-working board on eBay. I'm sure someone can figure it out after all the new parts that were installed. Thank you to everyone who pitched in to get it running over these last few months. Your gracious assistance is very much appreciated. - S

#171 2 years ago

Thanks for the update, glad you have a working game!!

1 year later
#172 1 year ago

Hi all, fired up a game today and game does not end. Game is set for 3 ball play. Game goes to ball 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, then ball counter goes dark and you keep playing ball after ball. No game end. Any ideas what may cause this. Weak memory batteries?

20220830_162343 (resized).jpg20220830_162343 (resized).jpg
#173 1 year ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Hi all, fired up a game today and game does not end. Game is set for 3 ball play. Game goes to ball 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, then ball counter goes dark and you keep playing ball after ball. No game end. Any ideas what may cause this. Weak memory batteries?
[quoted image]

power off, Pull batteries, open coin door, power on, wait 2 seconds, power off, wait 2 seconds, power on, close coin door, insert fresh batteries.

If problem persists, replace 5101 chip.

#174 1 year ago

Thank you sir! Will try it!

Is that a 22 pin 5101 CMOS RAM IC Chip?

#175 1 year ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Thank you sir! Will try it!
Is that a 22 pin 5101 CMOS RAM IC Chip?

Yes it is.

If you have a chip programmer and 2716/2816 chip you can run the "03-cmos" test from this software download:

https://pincoder.ca

It will test every address within the chip and let you know if its actually faulty or not.

If you don't have a chip and programmer you can buy the Pincoder Adapter. Just plug it in and turn on the game to start running diagnostics:

https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/

Of course, there are additional tests included so you can test your whole game.

If you do need to replace the 5101 and can't find a replacement:

https://nvram.weebly.com/nvram.html (Currently out of stock)

#176 1 year ago
Quoted from pincoder:

Yes it is.
If you have a chip programmer and 2716/2816 chip you can run the "03-cmos" test from this software download:
https://pincoder.ca
It will test every address within the chip and let you know if its actually faulty or not.
If you don't have a chip and programmer you can buy the Pincoder Adapter. Just plug it in and turn on the game to start running diagnostics:
https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/
Of course, there are additional tests included so you can test your whole game.
If you do need to replace the 5101 and can't find a replacement:
https://nvram.weebly.com/nvram.html (Currently out of stock)

I have a few good pulls if you really need a 5101.

#177 1 year ago

The fresh batteries are in how do I get rid of the 1495 - 1 (audit mode) that's in the 1st display? I tried turning the machine on and off quickly several times with the coin door open but it stays in audit mode, it will not go into attract mode. Batteries are absolutely fresh.

#178 1 year ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

The fresh batteries are in how do I get rid of the 1495 - 1 (audit mode) that's in the 1st display? I tried turning the machine on and off quickly several times with the coin door open but it stays in audit mode, it will not go into attract mode. Batteries are absolutely fresh.

Check the voltage at the 5101 ram.
If you have a bad battery holder this will still happen.

#179 1 year ago

How do I check the voltage? Specifically. And what values am I looking for with the multimeter? I'd like to try this first before I start sucking solder!

#180 1 year ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

How do I check the voltage? Specifically. And what values am I looking for with the multimeter? I'd like to try this first before I start sucking solder!

Use a multimeter and measure the voltage between TP7 and TP10 (ground).
It should read between 3VDC and 4.5VDC.

#181 1 year ago

Ok, TP 7 reads 4.9V and TP 10 reads 0. No voltage reading. Should I replace 5101?

#182 1 year ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Ok, TP 7 reads 4.9V and TP 10 reads 0. No voltage reading. Should I replace 5101?

You can do that, not saying it is the solution.
There might be more to it.
Or you can replace the 5101 with a nvram module.
No more need for batteries, ever.
No more danger of leakage....

#183 1 year ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Ok, TP 7 reads 4.9V and TP 10 reads 0. No voltage reading. Should I replace 5101?

Sounds like you may have tested with the power switch on? When you are testing battery power, the power must be off, and the batteries of course, installed.

To get into audit mode, you should pull the batteries, coin door open, power on. Once you are in audit mode, install the batteries, then power off, wait, then on again. Do not power on and off quickly, or off and on quickly. This is not good for the electronics.

#184 1 year ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Ok, TP 7 reads 4.9V and TP 10 reads 0. No voltage reading. Should I replace 5101?

Note, he said *between* those two. eg, use TP10 as ground. You should only have one reading

#185 1 year ago

Thank you both for the clarification. With the machine off and coin door open, I tested TP10 as the ground with TP7 and get 4.5 volts. I also powered up and pushed the bottom red diagnostics button on the lower right of the MPU board. There are two buttons. I pushed the lower one. (See photo) and both red LED's come on and stay on. I believe this indicates a failed 5101 cmos IC. Any confirmation would be greatly appreciated...

20220905_195519 (resized).jpg20220905_195519 (resized).jpg

#186 1 year ago

I also purchased and a battery holder and mounted it off to the side so when this is finally fixed I will wire it appropriately to avoid any acid damage in the future.

20220905_195646 (resized).jpg20220905_195646 (resized).jpg
#187 1 year ago

Any last minute advice before I pull the 22 pin 5101 out and plug the new one in?

#188 1 year ago

****Issue Solved! ****
Philips PCD 5101 CMOS chip replaced with a new one. A brief On/Off with power switch brought it into attract mode and reset the high score to 600,000. Game now ends properly after 3 or 5 balls! Thank you everyone that pitched in here! I was able to find the chip for about $4 on eBay. Wish I could have found a single 22 pin socket without having to spend $35 plus shipping on many electronics sites, but I mounted the chip high just in case I have to take it out again. Thank you all again....

20220909_220212 (resized).jpg20220909_220212 (resized).jpg20220909_221344 (resized).jpg20220909_221344 (resized).jpg

20220909_221940 (resized).jpg20220909_221940 (resized).jpg

#189 1 year ago
20220909_221940 (resized).jpg20220909_221940 (resized).jpg
#190 1 year ago

Excellent. Nice work!

3 weeks later
#191 1 year ago

Thank you sir!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 150.00
Displays
Digipinball Shop
Displays
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 52.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 129.00
Cabinet Parts
Bob's Pinball Stuff
Cabinet parts
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 12.50
Lighting - Led
RoyGBev Pinball
Led
2,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Carmichael, CA
$ 42.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 9.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
Boards
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
There are 191 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-blackout-repair/page/4?hl=pincoder and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.