(Topic ID: 294495)

WIlliams Blackout player lights

By jojo97222

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by jojo97222
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

#1 1 year ago

Issue with Williams Blackout. Occasionally the player 1, 2, 3, 4 lights stop working during gameplay. They can start out working thru each player but then stop working. Next ball they may be working again. Game has a new CPU/driver board. We have reseated the IDC wires on the female headers, checked and reseated the wiring quick disconnect to the light board and visually checked all sockets and connections. It feels like a connection issue rather than a board issue but just can't put our finger on it.

What are we missing?

#2 1 year ago

Look carefully at the connectors themselves. The actual terminals in the connectors can fail. I’ve rebuilt connectors and found they can fatigue and loose tension or break off inside the housing after 40 yrs. frequent cause of intermittent connection.

#3 1 year ago

When the score displays go out, is the high voltage still there? There should be a glow in a corner of the displays. No glow equals no high voltage. Knowing that you have high voltage should help troubleshoot the issue.

#4 1 year ago

Will check again at the connectors for fatigue.

Billc479 the issue isn't with the displays, but the player lights above each display.

#5 1 year ago

OK - I misunderstood. You're referring to the controlled lamps.

The only common signal for those lamps is from driver board 2J5, pin 2. Since the board is new, I agree that the issue is not likely on the board. When this happens, tilt the game - the tilt light should come on, and since the light is in the same column, you should see it. If the light does not come on, wiggle the wire at 2J5 pin 2 and see if it comes back. If it does, you should change out the IDC to crimp.

You could also wiggle that wire when the player light goes out to see if the light comes back. If it does, new connector.

7 months later
#6 6 months ago

SOLVED - found the new driver board had a bad solder joint at the transistor. Reflowed it and it is rock solid.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 129.00
Cabinet Parts
Bob's Pinball Stuff
$ 11.00
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
$ 59.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
From: $ 77.00
Tools
Pincoder Store
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
$ 14.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
$ 36.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
From: $ 9.00
From: $ 11.00
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, become a Pinside+ member!