(Topic ID: 215468)

Williams Blackout IDC Connectors


By oldschoolbob

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

I'm working on a Williams Blackout game. This is only my second Williams game and my first with IDC connectors. I found replacement connectors but they seem to be for 22 gauge wire.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1601

Will this work on all connectors or do I need to find other sizes?

Any tips or tricks to install these?

Thanks

Bob

#2 1 year ago

My recomemdation is never replace a connector with IDC. Those are not good connectors and that's why they burn up all the time. Replace with the molex style. And use the trifurcon pins. They are much better.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81

Lonny

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

My recomemdation is never replace a connector with IDC. Those are not good connectors and that's why they burn up all the time. Replace with the molex style. And use the trifurcon pins. They are much better.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81
Lonny

Seconded. Good reading at the bible of pinball connectors:
http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

#4 1 year ago

going and redoing every IDC plug is probably overkill. Change the high current carrying and any suspect/problem connectors to crimp style.

Better use of your time is changing the round headers to square ones, but again probably overkill and takes good desoldering gear. The round original headers are usually cut nearly flush to the solder side of the board making the solder more likely to crack. Plus the round shape of the posts is not ideal.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

going and redoing every IDC plug is probably overkill. Change the high current carrying and any suspect/problem connectors to crimp style.
Better use of your time is changing the round headers to square ones, but again probably overkill and takes good desoldering gear. The round original headers are usually cut nearly flush to the solder side of the board making the solder more likely to crack. Plus the round shape of the posts is not ideal.

I agree about the overkill. I always replace the high amp pins and connectors when I restore a game. The rest are replaced on an as needed basis.

#6 1 year ago

Thanks for all the input. Very good information there on pinrepair.com.

Whenever I get a new game I always replace the connectors and headers just to be sure. I guess I was thinking to keep the game original with the IDC's. But now I see the crimp connectors are much better, I think I'll go that route.

I really don't have any issues with any of the old connectors and none look burnt. I think I'll take your advice and only replace the high current connectors and all the headers.

Thanks

Bob

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

going and redoing every IDC plug is probably overkill. Change the high current carrying and any suspect/problem connectors to crimp style.
Better use of your time is changing the round headers to square ones, but again probably overkill and takes good desoldering gear. The round original headers are usually cut nearly flush to the solder side of the board making the solder more likely to crack. Plus the round shape of the posts is not ideal.

Yes. They definitely cut those connectors too flush. I usually pull them all out, clean them, and then use a spacer that I 3D printed to use a use to push about 1/16" more of the pin through the shell. Worked out great. Good solid connections around the board. I just put all new connectors on the 40-pin interconnect.

#8 1 year ago

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/serie-2400-3-96mm/wafer-connector-3-96mm-9-pins.html

They are molex knock off despite what the website says. On my test gear that goes in and out all the time I seem to get just many connector wipes on them as the genuine molex cut to size headers before the plating wipes off. Recommend part for wms boards that use the locking channels. When there are locking channels I like them better than the cut to size ones.

#9 1 year ago

Thanks Andrew but I really don't like locking connectors. I always have problems getting them "unlocked". Plus the 24 pin headers can be cut to size so I only need one size. Unfortunately GPE is out of stock again.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Thanks Andrew but I really don't like locking connectors. I always have problems getting them "unlocked". Plus the 24 pin headers can be cut to size so I only need one size. Unfortunately GPE is out of stock again.

I personally don't like the wrong kind of connector wafer blocks installed! =D The locking channels are good and WMS used them for a reason IMO. You can use something to press upon the lock channel when pulling the plug out to make it easier. Just pulling on the plug will make your fingers hurt.

Everything on the WMS MPU and Driver is nine pin except for two four pin. I think its 16x 9pin and 2x 4pin + the interconnect to repin the entire MPU+driver.

#11 1 year ago

It took me over an hour to remove the connectors from the headers - but I did spend some time labeling them. Not an easy process. I used a screwdriver to help unlock the locks. But thinking back maybe an old credit card would work better.

My inventory is a bit different - 19x 9 pin, 4x 4 pin, 1x 6 pin, 1x 12 pin, 1x 15 pin. I inventoried them because I haven't decided yet to go locking or non-locking.

On a different matter - I plan on installing your NVRAM on this board but I noticed there are some pins sticking up (I guess they're test points) Should I cut them off to be sure they don't touch the bottom of the NVRAM board?

Thanks

Bob

IMG_1542 (resized).JPG

#12 1 year ago

There will be no clearance issues on this MPU for the NVRAM.

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