(Topic ID: 266335)

Williams Blackout 1980


By Scott9

80 days ago



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  • 27 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 52 days ago by Scott9
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 80 days ago

I am restoring my machine and the playfield is a mess. I bought a laminate to go over it, but it looks really bad and I am not going to install it. Any suggestions on what kind of paint and clearcoat I should use or anybody know where I can find a replacement playfield for this game???

HELP!!!!

#2 80 days ago

Blackout playfields have not be reproduced yet by anyone. I was in the same situation many years ago and had to send my playfield out to be restored. The restoration came out near perfect but it was not cheap. The company who did it has retired from the playfield business. Most Blackout playfields that I have ever seen have a lot of wear so most of the current playfield guys will not even touch it with a ten foot pole. Blackout is a high production game (they made a lot of them) so I would expect either a hardtop or a reproduction playfield in the future. I would avoid using a cheap thin overlay. They are usually junk and bubble up. I would recommend waiting for a hardtop or a reproduction playfield, hopefully done in the near future.

#3 80 days ago
Quoted from Scott9:

I am restoring my machine and the playfield is a mess. I bought a laminate to go over it, but it looks really bad and I am not going to install it. Any suggestions on what kind of paint and clearcoat I should use or anybody know where I can find a replacement playfield for this game???
HELP!!!!

Post pictures would help.

#4 80 days ago

Is there something I could use to strip the playfield and clean this up?

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#5 80 days ago

Most of the wear on it is minor, so I could paint it and then clear coat it myself. Anybody know where you could find out the exact paint colors and the type of paint to use? Also curious on what kind of clear coating works best on these playfields.

#6 80 days ago
Quoted from Scott9:

Most of the wear on it is minor, so I could paint it and then clear coat it myself. Anybody know where you could find out the exact paint colors and the type of paint to use? Also curious on what kind of clear coating works best on these playfields.

I would touch that up and clear it, very minor wear. Would not even think of installing an overlay.

Here is mine I touched up and mylar'd. It would be rare if something out of the bottle would match, always a bit of tinkering to be done.

My advice if you wish to experiment is to use acrylic paint from a hobby store as it can be wiped off fairly easy. I have moved on to oil based model paints like Testors which is less forgiving.

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#7 80 days ago

Your playfield is in above average condition for a Blackout. You are so lucky. That would be an easy fix and clearcoat job.

#8 80 days ago

What type of clear coat would you guys recommend?

#9 80 days ago
Quoted from Scott9:

What type of clear coat would you guys recommend?

I use the 2K stuff in the rattle can, works great.

#10 80 days ago
Quoted from Scott9:

What type of clear coat would you guys recommend?

I have personally used regular 2-part automotive clear and had positive results with PPG, Basf and Dupont but you need the proper safety equipment to spray it.

#11 80 days ago

You’ll want to pop out all of your warped arrow inserts and flatten them.

I cut a little piece of 1/4” thick pressboard to fit inside the insert, then I put the insert on a cookie sheet and throw it in the oven for 10 minutes at 225 degrees. I started at 200, but had better results at 225. Higher temps might work even better, I didn’t want to risk it.

Take it out of the oven, put in the little piece of pressboard and clamp it between two pieces of steel for a couple hours. Then epoxy it back into the playfield. Mine were still not perfect, but at least they required very little clear to level them.

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#12 80 days ago

PF looks pretty good except where the mylar was pulled up around the pops.Id give that a good clean and wax. How bad are the inserts?, Didnt look extremely bad.

#13 80 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

You’ll want to pop out all of your warped arrow inserts and flatten them.
I cut a little piece of 1/4” thick pressboard to fit inside the insert, then I put the insert on a cookie sheet and throw it in the oven for 10 minutes at 225 degrees. I started at 200, but had better results at 225. Higher temps might work even better, I didn’t want to risk it.
Take it out of the oven, put in the little piece of pressboard and clamp it between two pieces of steel for a couple hours. Then epoxy it back into the playfield. Mine were still not perfect, but at least they required very little clear to level them.[quoted image][quoted image]

Those look great after being in the oven, may use that trick on my Firepower.

#14 77 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

You’ll want to pop out all of your warped arrow inserts and flatten them.
I cut a little piece of 1/4” thick pressboard to fit inside the insert, then I put the insert on a cookie sheet and throw it in the oven for 10 minutes at 225 degrees. I started at 200, but had better results at 225. Higher temps might work even better, I didn’t want to risk it.
Take it out of the oven, put in the little piece of pressboard and clamp it between two pieces of steel for a couple hours. Then epoxy it back into the playfield. Mine were still not perfect, but at least they required very little clear to level them.[quoted image][quoted image]

Great idea... Thank you

#15 77 days ago

The playfield is in decent shape. I bought an airbrush and I am going to try and touch up the playfield around the pop bumpers. I did pull the inserts. I am going to clean the ones that have printings on them and replace the plastics that dont.

There are areas that I just can't seem to get clean on the playfield. I just bought some Novus 2, any other suggestions on what I can use to clean this better? I attached photos.

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#16 77 days ago

If you pulled the mylar around the pop bumpers and there is a lot of residue/adhesive gunk, try using alcohol and sprinkle regular baking flour into it scraping it with something that won't take up paint. Plastic scraper, credit card, Etc. The flower will act as a binder for the adhesive residue to cling to and eventually you can get it up. Once most of it is gone, easier to clean.

#17 76 days ago

Yours looks pretty clean to me. The yellow and white is the hardest to get clean and yours has minimal ball swirls.

Best tool I've found is Magic Eraser with isopropal alcohol. Go slow and be prepared to stop is the paint gets thin. DO NOT scrub continuously in one spot or you WILL wear through the paint. Make sure to wipe off all the residue before it dries or your will have to use magic eraser again to get it off.

#18 75 days ago

That is a great idea, i will try that

#19 75 days ago
Quoted from Tommy-dog:

Your playfield is in above average condition for a Blackout. You are so lucky. That would be an easy fix and clearcoat job.

I thought your playfield was going to be really trashed by the way you were talking!

#20 74 days ago
Quoted from Gort:

I thought your playfield was going to be really trashed by the way you were talking!

trashed compared to my other machines... LOL... But, agreed that it isn't too bad. It is the only reason I popped on this machine at auction.

#21 70 days ago

Playfield cleaned up, I am now repainting the white areas under the standups, slings, and pops. Then touching up the pop bumpers and then clear coating. Painting the cabinet is next!!!

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#22 70 days ago

They say the hardtop is coming any day.

#23 70 days ago

I would never consider a hardtop for an original pf in condition this good.

#24 65 days ago

White is done, now I am going to hit the yellow, and finish with black. So far it looks good and the white is really popping

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#25 65 days ago

I let my youngest daughter go to town on painting these cabinets for me. I think she did a pretty good job.

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#26 63 days ago

Every day I get a little closer.

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1 week later
#27 52 days ago

Getting closer and closer to the finish line.

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