Good morning,
I am looking for a Williams Ball Park owner that has their game in Free Play.
Can you please take a picture of the credit unit switches?
Thanks a bunch!
Dave
(Topic ID: 62556)
Pinrepair has a picture that gives instructions on setting up Williams EM for Free play. If you look closely at that picture and my Ball Park are different. I have more switch blades. So I thought the top needed to be closed, I did that and it didn't work. I was able to get it to free-play a single game but then pressing it again just reset the entire game instead of moving to a 2 player game.
I believe I tried almost every combination. If I remember what worked the closest for the one player was to short blades 1-2 and 3-4 counting from the top. I rotated the wheel for the picture. If wheel is rotated so credit window shows no credit that the post on the gear rotates and at zero credits changes the MB from blades 3 and 2 to 3 and 4. That also opens blades 1 and 2 since the nylon spacer on blade 2 rides on blade 4. I believe the bottom switch is for max credits and should be normally closed.
Oakland, NE
Here is a video of a 1971 Williams Klondike Replay Unit. It is the same as yours.
The top two blades turn a light on under the red lens on the playfield lower apron when they touch each other. They should be open when your credit wheel shows "0" and should close when the wheel reads anything other than "0".
The middle three blades are what you need to adjust for free play. When your credit wheel shows "0", they should be Open, Closed going from top to bottom. The state of each of these should change when the credit wheel moves off of "0". Of those three, the top two need to be permanently closed for your game to be on free play. There are many ways to do this. You can simply bend them together, Place a penny or nickel between them, jumper the solder tabs of those two blades together, etc....
The bottom two blades should be closed until a pin on the ratchet wheel pushes them open from below. This cuts power to the step up coil and acts as a max credit switch. Tha maximum credits can be changed by changing the position of the max credit pin. It looks like yours may be missing though unless it is hiding behind the shaft with the clock spring in the pic you posted.
Hmm, You are correct that has the same credit unit, however my concern is that since it is a baseball game things might be different.
When I short the blades 1 and 2 (so light stays lit under playfield) and then short blades 4-5 and leave blades 6-7 closed until pin opens for max credit. I removed the pin for the photo. The reset button does nothing. If I manually engage the coin relay then a single player game starts and goes to inning 1 which is correct.
Any ideas?
Blades 1 and 2 don't matter. Their sole purpose is to turn on the credit light in the apron. I would say that blades 3 and 4 need to be closed all the time for free play to work. Blades 4 and 5 can open and close as they normally would. Blades 6 and 7 also do not come into play here.
I hear your concern about the possible difference in the game but I would bet it is as I describe. A schematic would help us verify this. Got one? I looked a little on IPDB but found nothing.
**There could be more going on here than just some misadjusted Replay unit switches**
schematic, posted I also have the manual but it is too big to post. you can email m eat [email protected] and I can email it directly
Wire Color Guide
Williams_Ball_Park_Schematic_Wire_Colo.jpg
This shows the M/B switch, Blades 3-4-5.
Blade 3 will be connected to a Black/Green wire.
Blade 4 will be connected to a Brown/Yellow wire.
Blade 5 will be connected to a Red/White wire.
The schematic confirms that blades 3-4 need to be closed to allow the coin relay to fire through the replay button.
Switches blades 4-5 need to open to release the coin lockout coil. This can be ignored if you intend to set the game to freeplay.
I can't verify this any further unless you post another pic of your credit unit switches that shown the wires attached to it.
looking at the schematic, I can confirm that the top pair of blades, 1 and 2, are indeed the credit lite and the bottom pair, 6 and 7, are the max credit switch that cuts power to the step up coil when opened.
I think that should do it. If this does not get you running, then we need to dig deeper into the schematic.
Good luck! Keep us posted.
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