Have you ever taken them apart and cleaned them/rebuild them? When I did that to my Fun-Fest they were much more livelier.

Rebuild the pop bumpers. At the very least clean the assembly and replace the coil sleeves. Check the EOS switch on the pop as well.

If they're working, then you're probably getting the right amount of power. But for your own edification, put your multimeter to DC voltage and put one lead to ground and probe the lugs on the coil with the other lead. Go ahead and measure the resistance across the coil as well, it should be around 4 ohms.

Can't hurt to replace the bridge. Usually they're fine but I have had ems with weak pops where replacing the bridge fixed it.

Rebuild can't hurt. Gap the switch as close as possible without machine gunning.

There's no eos

Yea,cleaning the game over the tilt relay and reset switches they connect the one wire off the bridge. also check the 10 amp fuse make sure its clean and the fuse holder.

Check the diode across the coil
The way you can make them stronger is to measure the resistance in ohms across the coil with the wires off and then find a coil that is the same size so it fits with 1/2 less in ohms .5
Another way you can take the paper off the coil carefully with a razor blade and slip it under the edge to reuse the paper then find the outer wire and unwind the wire from the coil to lower the ohms i wont go more than .4 or .5 ohms less. Try one coil and see if its the strength you like.
Then feed it back through the hole sand the enamel off the wire so you can solder it to the lug

This really shouldn't be needed on Williams DC pops. They're usually crazy strong

There are three pops in this machine. Are they all equally "weak"? if so, you can almost rule out anything mechanical with the pops and the switches related. start with your bridge and capacitor idea. And yes, capacitors do go bad with age.

If not all three pops are weak, then check the spoon switch for proper sensitivity when the skirt is hit. Also check for clean and strong contact of eos switch.

To test or identify which switches may need work, Turn out the lights and start a game. Remove the ball and prop playfield up. Manually trigger the pops by touching the skirt and look for sparks at the pop switches under playfield. Bigger sparks mean dirty or misadjusted switches.

Hey Chisel,
Nice looking game!
Any changes with the pops?? Voltage going into the bridge can be measured on the Yel and Red wires, the ones not connected to the cap.
That would be your input voltage from the transformer 24VAC than you can ckeck the out put voltage from the bridge ???VDC

YES, most definitely, a bridge rectifier can get weak. Had that happen in a Williams Swinger once. In my case, one leg of the device had burned out, so I was only getting every other peak in the sine wave.

Are the slingshot kickers weak also?

According to the schematic, the slings are wired to the exact same DC voltage output as the jet bumpers.

If the slings are weak too, then the problem must lie in the bridge rectifier, the cap, or the fuse and wiring.

If the slings are not weak, then look back to the jet bumpers. Perhaps the rebuild kit parts were not the proper ones, or maybe they were all put back together incorrectly?

Are the jet bumper coils all marked G-23-750 dc?

Seems like with the Williams Pops I have rebuilt it takes 100 or so plays and they smooth out to be faster.

There is another item in the power chain - the 10 amp fuse. Make sure the holder is tight on the fuse and might even want to swap the fuse - I've had some that have blown, yet short and have kind of an intermittent behavior. Other thing is to clean and adjust your pop switches (activation not scoring)

The wire looks like 18 gauge that should be fine,
Is the wire on the other side of the bridge the same size?
You can step it up to 16 gauge.

The other thing is the yokes , they attach to the pop bumper plunger did you replace the metal ones with flat metal, because some of the metal yokes are made with a support in the back of them and they hit the top of the bracket not giving the ring a good pop,they need to be ground down so the plunger hits the coil stop before the yoke does,if this is the case.

The other issue is they might worn with play between them and the plunger you can flip the bakelight upside down.
The springs are important to you can stretch them the length of the coil.
I saw you mention you rebuilt them so I figured Id bring this up just in case

If you want to cheat just use silicon on a rag and wipe down the skirt and ring and playfield around the pop bumper.

Any BR that can handle 50V, 20A or more is fine.

Any updates on this? I've just rebuilt the pop bumpers on my Aztec and am running into the exact same problem.

Haven't measured the voltage yet. Will do that next.