(Topic ID: 194594)

Williams Alien Poker Club " I win, you lose"

By BMHouze

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 332 posts
  • 62 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 43 hours ago by WalrusPin
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders

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#38 5 years ago

Sadly the spinner light is tied in with the 3x light so you can't even just blink that in code or anything

7 months later
#83 5 years ago

I just had to replace all of mine on my scorpion. I got some 3d printed and they work great.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792174

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#85 5 years ago
Quoted from frisbez:

Ordered some of those. Thanks for the heads up Zacaj.
Next issue. Can anyone confirm that the pop bumper light wiring is as simple as one leg to dioded wire from wiring harness and the other leg to the bare GI wire?

Shouldn't be GI, should be to another row/column wire. Might just look like a GI wire though

#89 5 years ago
Quoted from BMHouze:

Do I need a special board to run LEDs?
I see they sell a board for older stern and bally...
Do you only need six of the drop target pieces 3d printed? (looks like 6) at least 1 on each end of the assembly and one between each target.

Six yes. You need non ghosting Leds but no special boards

#99 5 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I had these ones printed:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2926470
I didn’t get them particularly cheap but I’m told it’s like $1.50 in material costs... :/

I think I paid like $2 for 14 of them. Printing markup is crazy

#109 5 years ago

What screw? Mine lined up fine

2 months later
#140 4 years ago

I assume you'd have trouble getting over 1k for one that wasn't in super condition

1 month later
#150 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Time for me to do a flipper rebuild - mine are weak! What are the right parts for these flippers? The manual I see online is only for settings etc, and a few months ago I almost ordered a rebuild kit parts online, but the parts didn't look like they matched what is in my machine.

Does yours have the plates with the built in coil stops?

#154 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I double checked just to be sure. Yep, it does!

The original base plates are available from PBL, but you only need to replace them if the coil stop is worn. I find that these style tend to hold up quite well. The coil stop should be 0.25" tall (or at least, it is on the PBL remakes, and also on most of my original ones). They don't make links with holes that fit the roll pins used in the original cranks, so you'll need to get full crank+plunger assemblies. Just make sure you get the ones with 'skinny' links like this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8050-1. Rest of the part numbers should be findable in the parts manual: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1980/files/mobile/index.html#91

I'm not a fan of the fliptronics replacement. I've played games with it and they just don't feel the same, plus I worry about the stroke distance being different due to different mechs.

#158 4 years ago

My AP will be on the Buffalo pinball stream tonight

https://twitch.tv/buffalopinball/profile 8pm est

6 months later
#187 4 years ago
Quoted from idealjoker:

To make this work the same way you can see in the Papa gameplay video, I had to change the way the right flipper switch was wired in my game to make stage flipping work correctly (inner flipper activates activates first).

That's how mine works, and my Laser Cue too. Weird that yours was backwards....

3 weeks later
#194 4 years ago

The test button on the square board should play speech and sounds.

#200 4 years ago

They're both for the rectifier. Seems like williams actually was safe for once and fused both sides. It's pretty much up to luck which side blows if there's an issue.

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1 year later
#252 2 years ago

Mine was at 7 and had no issues

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